santillan_m

So now Next thing to do is replace my alternator doing it myself hopefully I get it done with no issues and follow the ^^^ above steps, i hope this finally fixes my issue finally but before I do that I'm concern on the aux sensor noww you guys think maybe that could be my issue of the red battery dash and my car dieng too or is it for sure my alternator now!! ??

Btw Im selling a new bosh VR that Installed and won't need it now since I'm buying the new alternator and it comes with one ?? So I'm stuck with a new one bosh if anyone is interested I got for $45 at rmeuropean

Critter

E55AMG05, you come on to ask for information, ignore any good diagnostic assistance then have the nerve to argue on how to fix your dilemma, by the time you resolve your charging issues you will be a master mechanic, because you will have taken that alternator out numerous times. Is that battery in fact an original, either trunk or underhood. Back to Walmart for the charger . Kicking your car shows complete ignorance and lack of control. Seek help for the anger issues.

E55AMG05

You know this situation has been really hard on my behalf and I let this alternator apocalypse thingy get the better of me. I did everything changed the alternator new VR I DON'T KNOW WHAT CPS IS PLZ can you tell me. All that is going bad is this "low battery convention functions unavailable" and than after I turn my radio and head lights off it says "function convention available" I think it's the AUX battery I really don't know. All I can say is I'm glad I am not the only one. I changed everything but the battery's. ever since I put the alternator I haven't gotten the BATTERY/ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP. So there is progress. With car running and all lights off battery voltage is at 14.0V. With lights and radio battery is at 13.8V so It can't be the big battery it has to be the small one aux one.

E55AMG05

Critter No it's just stressful. I asked for assistance and i appreciate it. I am very glad of everyone in this forum including you. It's just been a awful week. Look man your a 55K owner just as myself. We just want our cars to run and be as healthy as us and we want to do that on our own. so fine practice makes perfect. The rear battery is not a original it is a DEKA brand part# 649MF. As for The Aux battery it is a OEM mercedes. I do regret kicking my car I am going to fix that this summer like it never happened. Critter what is a CPS? Also my name is Rustem but you can call me Russ(as in short) thx

santillan_m

Yea it could be your aux battery have it checked if not thay your [aux isolador relay] or your battery module on the trunk i heard that one is realllyy expensive what ever its called I read it on it and then I will check all your fuses !??? That was the reason my car wasent turning on. I tought it was my cps ( crank position sensor ) and like I said I'm replacing my whole alternator or like ppl said just having it rebuild this weekend and using my new VR to save some money hopefully 🙏 this ends my issues wish me Luck .!! E55 down 😔

E55AMG05

As critter stated I am a alternator master mechanic. If your stuck on anything in installing the alternator just reply. I wish I could have bought the VR from you but I have it coming tomorrow from FedEx. Forget the aux sensor check ALL FUSES especially the 15Amp one. There is a fuse that powers the ABS that's what the Aux battery is for.

E55AMG05

0h thats what CPS stands for ok I changed that in the summer. Car kept shutting off for no reason especially when I hit pit holes. Idk where the "aux isolator relay" is? As for the battery module I highly doubt it since I can drive 1-2hrs but of course around that time "convention function" message turns on and off. Every 30 min or so. Also what is the fuse that you changed which temporarily solved your problem. Where was that fuse located and also where is the aux isolator relay located?

E55AMG05

You know that isn't such a bad idea I didn't think of it ^ it just seems kinda of a pain to remove and install. But it sure is a clean way to finish. Thanks APBTdogman that was very helpful. If I ever do need to remove my alternator I am going to try it that way.

APBTdogman

No problem bud were all here in comradery.

Gadget

I replaced my alternator today and that has solved the voltage issue.

If I do it again I will drain the coolant and remove the one radiator hose. It was a fight to get the alternator around that hose.

After I got the new alternator bolted in I was connecting the wires to the back side and discovered that I broke off the connector plug. Must of snapped it off during the wrestling match. I had to swap out the voltage regulator for the one I changed a week ago. Figures...

Just got back from a nice test drive. I really love this car!!

Thanks for all the help in getting the problem sorted out!!

G

novae500

Replace both batteries
Replace voltage regulator
Replace front auxiliary relay under ps windshield
Replaced battery control module in trunk
Finally did the red battery visit workshop go away. As well as conv functions temp disabled

Car has 12.8/13.v front rear when off and 14.3 when on. All in 4 weeks trouble shooting and car stopped getting messages.

My e500 was both batteries replaced and eventually alternator. No more conv function, red battery, and stop no brakes alternator messages disappeared. Your miles may vary

E55AMG05

Der you go. I also figured out my problem with my car and listen to this carefully. I was loosing power due to bad serpintine belt. My battery also read 12.5V and when car runs 13.8V. After I installed the serpintine belt my car read 13.1V and when it was running 14.1V. Make sure you change your serpintine belt at every recommended mile.

E55AMG05

Yea that the auxiliary relay I need the EXACT LOCATION!!!

typhoon43

Isn't that the the one in the trunk subfloor on the rear passenger side with the giant ground wire going to the main battery?

E55AMG05

Yup it should be the small box looking thing that is right next to the rear trunk battery.

RaFFi ///AMG

Would this cause my car to read " Consumer electronics offline"? Bought a brand new OEM battery about a year ago, so I doubt its that.

E55AMG05

No way I really never heard of that kind of malfunction

Inspiredbenz

iTrader: (1)

^ my 6 cd changer stopped working ..wouldnt take out disc's or even read them weird **** like that can happen you never know lol

kidturbo

Hi guys first time poster on here, I think..

I'm fighting this same low power problem on my W211 CDI and about to invite E55AMG05 to help me adjust my fenders...

Started the car for the wife one day last week when it was sub zero F temps to warm up, and when she went out a bit later the red Batt/Alternator light was on. She drove it to work and by the time she got home it had changed to the Stop Engine message. Check voltage at rear battery with a meter, was only 11.3V.

After reading this post I was going to change voltage regulator but the local Autozone had a reman alternator for a $189, so I tossed one on it along with a new belt and charged the battery up. Soon as I stated the car, the Red battery with visit workshop came up, along with conv functions disabled. So then had both batteries tested, and even swapped in new ones just to be sure, same thing. Check the codes with a SnapOn tool and it keeps setting a 2245 alternator fault, and had 9128 undervoltage that has not came back since cleared. I figured out how to pull up the voltage on the dash. But here is the strange part, it's not charging when you first start the car if ya leave it idling. Soon as you touch the throttle, it starts charging and is putting out 14v from that moment on. However the red Batt message and conv func disabled remains active.....

So I took it to the dealer, they checked it out and they said "diag tool says bad alternator $1100 to change it to a MB unit before we can move forward". Had the wife bring it back, and today Autozone gave me another reman alternator. I just installed it, SSDD.. I also clean the terminals on the front batt isolator, rear BCM, did a 5min BCM reset as listed in a service bulletin I found, and still this same problem.

So it's went from not charging for certain, to not charging at start idle, but charges all other times.. Hard to think I got 2 bad alternators with the exact same problem, and the autozone tool won't connect to these bosch units to bench test. Tomorrow I am going to go get the factory core back and find someone who can bench test it and go from there.

Sorry for the length, but what in the h3ll am I missing here?? I'm about ready to let the dealer change out the alternator so I can stop going crazy. It's a pain to get those things out from the top, it's the 4-bolt style not the 2-bolt, and bet I can do it in book rate time next go round...



-K

Beast55

it could be your battery control module located in the trunk, but i would still be suspicious of the Autozone Reman, not so good quality. Your local indy shop should be able to test the control module.

Critter

Beast55 is on the right track, I do not profess to be a MB electronics expert, but |I believe your issue is with the Voltage regulator used in the remanufactured alternator. This piece is not compatible with the MB circuitry and at least should be replaced with"I think" is a BOSCH voltage regulator. For some reason all types do not work, it is not like a chev or ford the Germans always go overboard in design. Besides the AZ alternator could always be faulty internally, maybe poor diode selection or capacity.
Also when removing or replacing an alternator always disconnect the battery or batteries to avoid shorting the unit out, voltage regulators do not take well with this action.
Good luck.

novae500

new bosch alternators on amazon are $2xx. I would go with these vs reman ones. I still have a new e55 alt but had to install the new alt in my e500 and a front aux battery. no more red battery or conven codes

kidturbo

Thanks guys, I'll agree everything points to the alternator"s". The local advance autoparts claims they have the correct plug to test these, so am gonna grab the core back from autozone and run it over there.

Problem is while you can find the common 2 bolt style new Bosch in the mid $200 range, best price I've found on this the 4 bolt style is mid $300 - $400 range and Autozone has my $100 core.. For some reason their books lists that unit as a 2006 model on the CDI, but Alldata show it correctly under 05.

Guess I should order a Bosch regulator [which looks exactly the same] and try it on this reman unit in the car before pulling it out again for another unit. Just strange that it will charge fine soon as you touch the throttle, but the light still doesn't go out. And there is no Indy shops anywhere near me who will touch it. All afraid of MB and no diesel experience to boot...

novae500

If this helps. When i started my car after each try, i ran it for a few minutes. The last repair, the red battery code finally went away and i was HAPPY.

kidturbo

Wish I had that luck...

Took the stock alternator to advance for bench testing. All we got was a ground fault error before it even spun up, so no luck. Did verify the stock an both Autozone units have a Bosch regulator on them. So.....

Next I put the SnapOn scanner back on for some more diag.

Here is where it gets strange. The 2245 code " Check component G2/5 (200A alternator with bit synchronous interface]" won't clear. If you do key on engine off, clear it, comes right back without engine running. If clear it with engine running and confirmed charging, the conv functions restore for 3 seconds then off again. Code is set whether its running or not.

So what ever module controls the alt, doesn't like what it's seeing. Spoke to the dealer about that, they still say alternator, but if I want to skip it and move to BCM, 3hrs labor for starters with break out box. New BCM is five bills, plus coding.

Somehow the piece on top the voltage reg with the positive terminal got cracked on the stock alt. If I trying to go that route I need to know what that part is called to order it also.