When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wow. There has to be a big difference. That bottom brush is broken and barely if at all seated. If you were to watch your alternator operate like that up close it would be a fireworks display on that brush and the alternator rotor interface/sliding contact. That would wreak havoc on the power quality being put out on the entire vehicle. Great grab.... the electrical power system in your car is much much happier!
Wow. There has to be a big difference. That bottom brush is broken and barely if at all seated. If you were to watch your alternator operate like that up close it would be a fireworks display on that brush and the alternator rotor interface/sliding contact. That would wreak havoc on the power quality being put out on the entire vehicle. Great grab.... the electrical power system in your car is much much happier!
No doubt! Didn't take an hour up on the lift, and I've never worked on anything other than chevys before. Actually never worked on an alternator. The broken one wasn't close to touching and the other one was barely making contact. Sadly I think the stress it put my battery through damaged the life of the battery, even when I charge it out of the car, I can come back and test it and it has dropped.
AWESOME FIND! is the regulator likely to be the culprit or the alternator itself thats at fault as the battery is 12.4v at tick over but as revs rise, reaches 17v then shuts car down.
help please folks as only had 2 days and battling through the issues..
flickering lights with low voltage with normal battery and good alternator. check cgm n 93 using das as it controls the lights thru canbus b from my experience
I'm sorry if i violate any forum rules buy adding something to this thread.
I was in the marked for a new regulator in my 2008 w211 200CDI, and came over this thread. As it turns out my 200cdi was not quite that simple. Could not get to the alternator as good as wanted, so ended up taking it out the hard way, using
(norwegian). The alternator in my case was gone (500 000km) So I got a new one.
Anyway! If someone else is looking for a new regulator to this alternator, ill post the MB-part number, and BOSCH-part number, so you dont have to buy from the MB dealer.
Alternator: A 013 154 90 02
Regulator: A 003 154 68 06
Regulator: BOSCH F00M 346 047 (F00M 346 080)
So I've been getting the convective features inactive light for a few weeks now. Had my batter drained once while I was at work. Had AAA jump start me and test my battery. Said it was fine and the alternator wasn't charging at full capacity. So I thought it was a voltage regulator swapped it out this weekend and my old one looked thrashed. everything seems ok, but went to start the car this morning and battery is dead... Anyone have any other suggestions to look at? Is there a way to test the BCM?
Its bound to happen, you get the awesome message that convenience functions are disabled! Then hopefully it comes back and all is good. Well it happened to me back and fourth over a period of 2 days, so I knew the battery or alternator was on the way out. Battery tests showed normal, so it was alternator time.
From what I know, the mb alternators seem to be rock solid. Its the damn voltage regulator that goes out. I guess it makes sense, as it is a wear item.
First get one of these....
1 BOSCH_0031546506_S
BOSCH Voltage Regulator NOTE: For cars with BOSCH Alternator.
$41.00
aboveallmotorwerks.com
I was able to replace this in about 20 minutes without removing the alternator!
Jack the car up on one or both sides and remove the underbelly pan.
Disconnect the battery (just do it) and get under her and take a look!
Find the bottom of the alternator. Remove the black and yellow wire connector.
Also screw off the plastic black cap in the middle.
Using a Philip's head, remove the screws that hold the cover on.
you can then use a socket to remove the power lead from the middle.
Now, the voltage regulator is only held on with a few more Philip's screws. (3)
Remove those, and she will fall (literally) out
Take a look at the difference and you can see the wear on the leads of old vs new
Put the new one back in, using the same process. The smaller screw goes in the bottom corner of the regulator when you get it back on the alternator.
Replace what you took out and you should be good to go!
I have done a few of them for people and have yet to have to replace an alternator
My Benz started showing low convenience awhile back. Had my car started, got to my location then when leaving the car doesn't want to start. Battery seems fine, and had this test done for alternator specifically bc the battery was giving out the power. Bought a new alternator, but I see all these posts about an regulator. Just want my car back out on the road. E55 - Dima
in the trunk next to the rear o f the main battery is a BATTERY CONTROL MODULE. it is about 4 inches square . there are large battery contacts and a electric plug with a few small wires coming out of the module.. PUSH THE SMALL WIRE CONNECTOR IN SO IT IS NOT LOOSE. That is all that was wrong with my w211 diesel. It almost drove me crazy, and that was all that was wrong--- loose connection
For anyone reading this post, I had my alternator tested and not only was my VR bad, but my diodes were bad as well. I don't know if it's related, but I jump started a stranded lady's car a few days before my alternator went out completely with no prior warning. I know, I know.
I have a race Saturday and didn't have time to order anything. Found a new alternator locally, but I may try to rebuild my old one and keep as a spare. Not sure about how to replace the diodes though.
Originally Posted by TopEndS62
not to take anything away from your statement, but i replaced mine with a bosch VR and i still needed an alternator...
For anyone reading this post, I had my alternator tested and not only was my VR bad, but my diodes were bad as well. I don't know if it's related, but I jump started a stranded lady's car a few days before my alternator went out completely with no prior warning. I know, I know.
I have a race Saturday and didn't have time to order anything. Found a new alternator locally, but I may try to rebuild my old one and keep as a spare. Not sure about how to replace the diodes though.
A bad/shorted diode can drain the battery in short order.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
