m54sam

Yep I didn't even try to lift the motor from the top, I had the entire car on a rack in a friends shop and used jacks from underneath to lift the motor once the mounts were unbolted.

After you changed the mounts, notice a difference? I certainly did, wow the car is completely different!

S2K750

Thats awesome! It was a really great time wrestling on my back lol I doubt well ever have to do this again though. Thank god for that lol

My cars going to be down for another few days so I can't say yet. My car was vibrating somewhat badly pre-install so that alone being solved will be great. I bet the car feels more planted and a much smoother power engagement. I have new trans fluid and spark plugs followed by completing my tune. She should feel brand new when im done!

AutoLuxury

I'm about to follow this DIY and do my motor mounts in the next few days! OH yeah! I just need an engine hoist!

Mulletmudbogger

Just changed out my motor mounts using this page.

Overall not too hard

I used rhino ramps, then disconnected the steering rack, then a floor jack and wood to lift the engine.

I found it easier to move the steering rack around if you disconnect the tie rod ends on both sides prior to lowering the rack. I had a cheap little tie rod remover so it wasn't hard to do.

The passengers side mount fell out
But the drivers side was still really hard to squeeze out so I had to disconnect both sway bar end links and pull down on the driver sway bar end with my left arm while pulling the drivers side mount out with my right

I also used the mercedes specific upper motor mount wrench I got for like $20, very helpful.

it wasn't it hard as I expected and THANK GOD I DIDNT HAVE TO UNBOLT THE EXHAUST!!!

Overall I did the whole thing in 6 hours but I was trying to figure it all out so I could probably do it in 3 hours again.

No car lift, no engine lift, just rhino ramps and a floor jack!! Unbolt the steering rack and sway bar links are the trick!

Mulletmudbogger

Old mount on the right.

Idles much smoother now! Car has 166k and I believe the original mounts because there is no service record of repairing them

cm60k

WaaaaaW, what a big differ...?!!?,

Why old one has more rubber....??

ZAYED,,

Mulletmudbogger

Not sure. I got the right part number. Maybe the new one is updated? Dunno. But it does idle better so I guess all is good

cm60k

Very good,,

Do you get the mounts with #: "220 240 27 17"....??

ZAYED,,

Mulletmudbogger

I think this is the old one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EKT..._dp_mdsc?dsc=1

And this is the exact new one I installed http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002WT...g=everybenz-20

Same new one. Different page http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?make=Me...341&brand=Febi

baldmike73

just got mine replaced under warranty on the 63 - seems like a good DIY, but would rather have it all paid for by the dealer.

Mulletmudbogger

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008NZ...803670-9923441


Tool for the upper mount bolts. You stick a socket extension into the small end of the wrench

cm60k

The old # is "220 240 27 17", MB replaced it to the new # which is "211 240 19 17",

maybe that's the reason that you got a new one, with less fade rubber...!!

ZAYED,,

Mulletmudbogger

I found the box. I guess my replacement ones are the old design. They still work great

cm60k

.....

ZAYED,,

wclopton

I replaced my engine mounts (A2302400117) on my 2005 E320 yesterday. I removed the exhaust with six bolts per side. All the extra work space, from below, made the replacing the mounts easy. For my car the removing exhaust was the best way to go.

1mbenz99

This is on my list today.

Beast55AMG

Thanks again for the helpful information. I just did my motor mounts today on my 2005 E55 AMG. My symptoms were a clunking sound on hard acceleration in 1st gear and I noticed my drivers side air intake tube kept popping off (likely because engine was moving too much with acceleration). The clunking sound was new after installing some PLM headers. My drivers side mount was bad and leaking fluid after removing. The passenger side wasn't leaking fluid but was slightly sunken down. It drives much smoother now and no more clunking sounds. Thanks again for the help!

PelicanParts.com

Great! We also have a good DIY Tech Article for engine mount replacements that can be of assistance as well. Good job on your write up!

-Luccia

JohnLane

Hey guys...

Many thanks for the helpful write-up.
My Buddy's Brabus had sagging mounts.

Four fasteners and the steering rack is enough out of the way to get the driver's side mount under the front of the engine and out the passenger side. No need to fuss with the swaybar.
On the hoist here... Just over an hour start to finish in one with headers.

Thanks again!

John

l3iGD

Just did motor mounts and trans mount on 2005 E55 Wagon. Here's another method (I did it on jack stands and dropped the exhaust. Not neccessary to remove wheels)

1. drop exhaust
2. bleed some
3. unbolt motor mounts
4. jack up oil pan with proper piece of wood on jack that will fit properly between cross member.
5. lift up motor.
6. take out destroyed motor mounts.
7. wiggle the new mounts in (bigger because they aren't completely collapsed)
(PS was actually slightly more difficult to put mount back in even though steering rack is slightly in way on DS.)
8. bolt mounts down.
9. for the trans mount, I was able to hold the back of trans up with one hand to put new trans mount in and line up bolts.
10. make sure motor mounts and trans mounts are tight. hang exhaust.
11. put on plastic.
12. go redline first and second and feel the difference. much smoother shift and power it seems.

PS motor mount was leaking nasty brown oil and rubber was destroyed.
DS motor mount was still sealed but clearly in rough condition.
Trans mount I could stick my thumb through hole in old one and I couldn't get my pinky through hole in new one and rubber was torn on one side.

Can't wait to drop the exhaust again to do rear main seal which I was lacking parts for at the time. Also valve cover gaskets which are starting to leak and spark plugs coming soon. Car has 95K now.

In last year that I can think of I had to put a:

new alternator - not a horrible DIY just remove fan shroud and "tightener pulley", double pulley above alternator pulley to reduce anger. It's a tight fit into the bracket but once you get the alternator into top of bracket you can swivel it and work it into place.

new tightener pulley - easy DIY (double pulley above alternator pulley Pass Side) rear pulley is plastic and separates in 2. Front pulley is metal and has a bearing inside. New pulley comes with both pulleys attached as "one piece" for like $480 list This pulley split in half on the 05 E55 wagon but I noticed it before it ripped the belts off. This pulley split in half on 05 G55 blowing both belts off.
just need flathead to pop cap off on pulley, star socket and a 8mm wrench to turn the star socket once you run out of room with ratchet against fan shroud.

new supercharger pulley bearing - not too bad DIY - great DIY already out there using heat to expand pulley and freezer to contract bearing and then no press required. Saves you $1500 as MB wants to sell you entire pulley as one kit if your bearing fails. Nachi bearing.

Front air shock - One failed replaced with Arnott reman. not bad DIY - excellent instructions from Arnott.

Rear air bags - failed replaced with Arnott reman. This is not a fun DIY and I do not recommend it. They instruct you to lower rear axle from car to r+i but I was able to do it without any of that nonsense. The Arnott system gets rid of the MB air reservoirs in rear. So I cut them out and drilled a hole through the factory junk bags and they came out with some encouragement. New ones weren't bad going in just make sure you align and mount them as instructed.

Trans pan gasket - easy diy

trans electric plastic plug - easy diy - (prevents oil from wicking up your trans line into expensive TCU)

changed the oil every 5K Mobil 1 0-40 - easy diy

Installed larger flow 2005 S55 AMG factory driver side air intake plastic tube onto driver side of 2005 E55 AMG wagon. - easy diy

Keyless go handles DS front and rear doors - annoying. was working intermittently so I replaced them. They don't come painted and it is very hard to get a body shop to a proper job on them with the plastic chrome attached to them.

Exterior Mirror rubber gaskets - not a bad DIY - These mirror rubber gaskets were both cracked ugly. To replace rubber gaskets from MB, they want you to buy the mirror frame which includes rubber gasket for like $400 list per side I think it was . A guy in Cleveland, OH was apparently pretty pissed about this fact too and started remanufacturing this mirror gasket for W211. His mirror gaskets had excellent fitment and quality.
DIY - You need to put pressure on the mirror, folding it all the way in. Find something that you can use as a wedge that will securely and properly hold the mirror all the way open. Remove 3 screws once it is held open. remove old rubber. install new rubber. install 3 screws. remove wedge. do other side.

BlackBirdsEye

Hello fellow w211 owners, I just replaced both sides engine mounts on my 05 e320 wagon and this post definitely helped me. I'm a bit lazy and scared to remove the exhaust and other parts and luckily I found some guy posted he did it through the wheel well. So that's what I did for both sides. Pelicanparts website also suggested to remove the alternator on the pass side, but the mount can be installed from the wheel well as well. One note that I wanted to share is when you are removing the bottom bolt of the mount, depending on the condition of the mount, the bolt may just continue to spin because the bolt that is holding it is already detached from the base of the mount due to rust. That can easily be vice-gripped from the top and continue to loosen the bolt under. I attached pics here as well to share to you guys. Thanks for the previous posts this definitely helps us save moolah.

Mixed_manE55

1. Simply used a low pro 2 ton jack on the front middle jack point.
2. Removed exhaust pipes from manifolds.
3. Used normal floor jack on oil pan, with 2 Mercedes jacks on the sides to tilt for clearance which ever way I needed.



Here's a few photos.

maxusa

I want to share my experience changing motor mounts on my W211. My vehicle is a 2009 E63, and I wondered if anything would be different to an E55. The good news is that all steps and points are the same. The OP write-up and comments helped me a great deal. I did this alone in 6 hours working carefully, no power tools. Replaced 2 engine mounts + 1 transmission mount + changed oil/filter.

I chose not to drop exhaust. This is where one can get in a situation quickly with an older vehicle. Instead, I unbolted the steering rack (4x bolts) and moved it out of the way as much as possible. While I tinkered with the mounts, the rack was loose and hanging on the steering rods and steering column joints just fine.

I did not remove wheels, did not remove stabilizer links. Used a racing floor jack in the middle point to raise the front. Put the car on 2x regular jack stands as high as I could. Then used a wooden block under the engine oil pan to jack up the engine 2 inches for clearance once all fasteners were removed.

I bought a special 16mm offset wrench on eBay for $13.59. This little tool (made by Baum Tools, sold by others) proved to be worth every penny. You can reach it from the bottom by hand while it moves. When tight, go top side with a 3/8" extension and it is 1/4 to 1/2 turn more in 2-3 iterations. Yes, you need to duck under the car to reposition it by hand, but it is a small price to pay for a good exercise.

Some people say putting the steering rack back can be PITA. Not my experience. The nuts are easily accessible and can be held by a regular 18mm wrench.

Probably the most tedious step for me was to position the heat shields and rotate the new mounts to align with the notch. I had to adjust a few times raising and lowering the engine. Need a small flashlight to see from top, duck under the car to rotate, and repeat until positioned perfectly.

Let the engine and exhaust cool down before tinkering. Wear eye protection - debris will fall on your face. When done, check engine air intake ducts. Mine slipped off at the filter boxes from engine's lifting.

The parts I used were 2x Lemforder p/n 2112403117 $78.50/ea and 1x AMG p/n 2122401018 $49.50. Offset wrench $13.59. Combined, this is 13.5% of the quote by the local MB dealer. The car got totally different character, no vibration, no resonance, no clunking noise, perfect idle, silky smooth rev and acceleration. Puts a smile on my face.

Hope this helps someone. Check the pics to see the difference. The driver's side mount was utterly ruined.

850csi

Hey guys — I’m getting ready to do this job on my SL55. I would like to use a hoist or engine support brace instead of jacking from underneath. Does anyone know for sure what the proper way is to raise the M113k from above?

maxusa

I would say do not bother with the brace. I bought one pre-emptively, and quickly realized how ridiculous the idea was. You still need to jack up the engine from bottom -- the brace only holds, cannot pull up. Why risking damage to your fenders, dealing with sagging brace? Totally unnecessary when you need few inches to clear. Hope this helps.