To split intercooler system or not to split?
06-03-2011, 12:01 PM
#26
MBWorld Fanatic!
I disagree with what you say though. The coolant volume available is less in a split system (even with small reservoir) vs a stock shared system. And you are right in what you say there is no travel of the fluid in though the reservoir so the effective volume is even less...
06-03-2011, 01:11 PM
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Rear mount tank would be Benefitial but just for simplicity sake would a front mount BMW res be worth it is the question. Somebody has logged the info and shows it is, but now few people seem to not be to favourable of the front mount, and some are convinced the reduced volume and pressure can't be good. Hmmmmmm
06-03-2011, 04:28 PM
#29
Super Member
just as an fyi, I did mine this weekend. I have the rear mount tank, and was on the fence about splitting the system as to if it was worth it.
Well, with it not split, and the system fed like follows:
heat exchanger to rear tank to front meziere to s/c
As soon as you start the system, it would drain the normal reservoir and throw a low coolant message. Open the top of that reservoir and it shoot crap out everywhere lolololol
So split it was, and all was fine. My recovery is extremely fast!
Now, with the T that everyone is complaining about. First, it's hard to get at, and second they are not regular clamps. I had to literally cut the pipe/clamp section itself and then get the right connectors to make it work in little space to work with. Do yourself a favor and get a cap for the one side, and then just a regular barb to barb splice for the other.
Well, with it not split, and the system fed like follows:
heat exchanger to rear tank to front meziere to s/c
As soon as you start the system, it would drain the normal reservoir and throw a low coolant message. Open the top of that reservoir and it shoot crap out everywhere lolololol
So split it was, and all was fine. My recovery is extremely fast!
Now, with the T that everyone is complaining about. First, it's hard to get at, and second they are not regular clamps. I had to literally cut the pipe/clamp section itself and then get the right connectors to make it work in little space to work with. Do yourself a favor and get a cap for the one side, and then just a regular barb to barb splice for the other.
I'm not suggesting running the length of the car and back just were you can see it.
06-03-2011, 10:02 PM
#30
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Eurocharged Performance ML63 and TT lambo
I hate to sound like a Complete A-hole but why would you go with Brass fittings and rubber hose in your trunk, I understand its completely functional but for maybe 75 bucks more you could do the trunk in AN and steel braid. Its just one of those things everyone want to check out and really makes the install looks so much cleaner.
I'm not suggesting running the length of the car and back just were you can see it.
I'm not suggesting running the length of the car and back just were you can see it.
Braided lines with an fittings will run you about $500 just for the lines. (we just did a car like that) I chose the durflex as its extremely strong, and very difficult to kink, an important factor expecially when running close to the suspension.
Maybe i will pretty it up at a later point, but I never have my trunk open, and we are still testing things out for the mile event and the system might change before october.
06-03-2011, 10:34 PM
#31
Super Member
lolol The "rubber hose" was actually gates duraflex hosing, which is about double the cost of the typical hose that people use. I used the brass fittings as mine were on backorder and needed the system working for Timmayfest. The hose was over $200 itself, as I used 40 feet.
Braided lines with an fittings will run you about $500 just for the lines. (we just did a car like that) I chose the durflex as its extremely strong, and very difficult to kink, an important factor expecially when running close to the suspension.
Maybe i will pretty it up at a later point, but I never have my trunk open, and we are still testing things out for the mile event and the system might change before october.
Braided lines with an fittings will run you about $500 just for the lines. (we just did a car like that) I chose the durflex as its extremely strong, and very difficult to kink, an important factor expecially when running close to the suspension.
Maybe i will pretty it up at a later point, but I never have my trunk open, and we are still testing things out for the mile event and the system might change before october.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230006/
Much better pricing than 500.00
You could pass the savings on to the customers or just increase your profits, either way someone wins.
06-03-2011, 11:25 PM
#32
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2005 E55 AMG
I hate to sound like a Complete A-hole but why would you go with Brass fittings and rubber hose in your trunk, I understand its completely functional but for maybe 75 bucks more you could do the trunk in AN and steel braid. Its just one of those things everyone want to check out and really makes the install looks so much cleaner.
I'm not suggesting running the length of the car and back just were you can see it.
I'm not suggesting running the length of the car and back just were you can see it.
06-04-2011, 12:39 AM
#33
Super Moderator
just as an fyi, I did mine this weekend. I have the rear mount tank, and was on the fence about splitting the system as to if it was worth it.
Well, with it not split, and the system fed like follows:
heat exchanger to rear tank to front meziere to s/c
As soon as you start the system, it would drain the normal reservoir and throw a low coolant message. Open the top of that reservoir and it shoot crap out everywhere lolololol
So split it was, and all was fine. My recovery is extremely fast!
Now, with the T that everyone is complaining about. First, it's hard to get at, and second they are not regular clamps. I had to literally cut the pipe/clamp section itself and then get the right connectors to make it work in little space to work with. Do yourself a favor and get a cap for the one side, and then just a regular barb to barb splice for the other.
Well, with it not split, and the system fed like follows:
heat exchanger to rear tank to front meziere to s/c
As soon as you start the system, it would drain the normal reservoir and throw a low coolant message. Open the top of that reservoir and it shoot crap out everywhere lolololol
So split it was, and all was fine. My recovery is extremely fast!
Now, with the T that everyone is complaining about. First, it's hard to get at, and second they are not regular clamps. I had to literally cut the pipe/clamp section itself and then get the right connectors to make it work in little space to work with. Do yourself a favor and get a cap for the one side, and then just a regular barb to barb splice for the other.
Jerry and Erick (1FASTC32) -among others- were separating the circuit and adding remote reservoirs back before I started whoring up the joint.
Good luck at the mile.
06-04-2011, 02:38 AM
#34
Super Member
How do you figure? Did you look at the link? Its 40 bucks for 6 FT of hose, The most exspensive 90 degrees fittings at 16 bucks. Straights are 9 bucks. Pipe to AN is cheaper yet. You subtract the cost of the rubber hose and worm clamps and your around 75 bucks.
But whats to point, I'm sure you can find somewhere more expensive to spend your money.
But whats to point, I'm sure you can find somewhere more expensive to spend your money.
06-04-2011, 05:13 AM
#35
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E55 AMG
just as an fyi, I did mine this weekend. I have the rear mount tank, and was on the fence about splitting the system as to if it was worth it.
Well, with it not split, and the system fed like follows:
heat exchanger to rear tank to front meziere to s/c
As soon as you start the system, it would drain the normal reservoir and throw a low coolant message. Open the top of that reservoir and it shoot crap out everywhere lolololol
So split it was, and all was fine. My recovery is extremely fast!
Now, with the T that everyone is complaining about. First, it's hard to get at, and second they are not regular clamps. I had to literally cut the pipe/clamp section itself and then get the right connectors to make it work in little space to work with. Do yourself a favor and get a cap for the one side, and then just a regular barb to barb splice for the other.
Well, with it not split, and the system fed like follows:
heat exchanger to rear tank to front meziere to s/c
As soon as you start the system, it would drain the normal reservoir and throw a low coolant message. Open the top of that reservoir and it shoot crap out everywhere lolololol
So split it was, and all was fine. My recovery is extremely fast!
Now, with the T that everyone is complaining about. First, it's hard to get at, and second they are not regular clamps. I had to literally cut the pipe/clamp section itself and then get the right connectors to make it work in little space to work with. Do yourself a favor and get a cap for the one side, and then just a regular barb to barb splice for the other.
Do you sell that res setup? It is it required to have an internal pump? How does the two pumps work together? Doesn't one want to push more then the other?
Sorry for all the questions.
06-04-2011, 08:50 AM
#36
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2005 E55 AMG
How do you figure? Did you look at the link? Its 40 bucks for 6 FT of hose, The most exspensive 90 degrees fittings at 16 bucks. Straights are 9 bucks. Pipe to AN is cheaper yet. You subtract the cost of the rubber hose and worm clamps and your around 75 bucks.
But whats to point, I'm sure you can find somewhere more expensive to spend your money.
But whats to point, I'm sure you can find somewhere more expensive to spend your money.
Last edited by GT-ER; 06-04-2011 at 08:53 AM.
06-04-2011, 05:45 PM
#37
Super Member
There is a lot more than 6ft of hose. If I go braided I go 100% braided. Not just a small part of the system. Heck, going from the front to the back and to the front again alone is maybe 20ft. Doing it just to look cool is a complete waste as it's under the trunk mat. Regardless, I only use braided for things that can become a hazard if they spill. There is no single reason to do it for an intercooler system.
, I said you could do a CLEAN install in your trunk for about 75 bucks more, Just to throw your 2 cents into a thread you say it WAAAAAAY more. I show that your wrong that you can do it for around 75 bucks more and your retort is its a waste of time. You might be unaware of the fact that most of us real entusist do things that are both esteticaly pleasing as well a functualy bennifical. Not that you care or even listening but 20 ft is 60 bucks more than 6 feet.
10-21-2016, 03:22 PM
#38
Member
Another way to add a tank under the hood !
I used the washer fluid resevoir.. it works great, although i no longer have washer fluid lol
I haven't had heat soak at the strip since i did this upgrade!
Kenny
I used the washer fluid resevoir.. it works great, although i no longer have washer fluid lol
I haven't had heat soak at the strip since i did this upgrade!
Kenny
10-22-2016, 09:19 AM
#39
Junior Member
AK-AMG very nice job on your set up! I have built several muscle cars and am now building 2 tri-five chevys. One thing that stood out to me was, I would never make any type of cuts to make a hose look prettier for a potential leak. Two connections are far better than 3-4 in my book. I hate any type of leak and less connections will have less leak potential.
Here is the line I just used to run fuel from my 55 Chevy truck from the rear mounted tank to the fuel injection. Just my .02
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220985
Here is the line I just used to run fuel from my 55 Chevy truck from the rear mounted tank to the fuel injection. Just my .02
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220985
10-22-2016, 02:36 PM
#40
I was looking at the crossover on mine while replacing my IC pump this past weekend. I think im going to try a much simpler split that should only take a few minutes and cost around a $3
My plan is to ad a simple ball valve where the crossover tube is now. leave it open for bleeding, after its bled, close the valve. Anyone else try this or have an idea of why it wouldn't work? (im very open to constructive criticism)
My plan is to ad a simple ball valve where the crossover tube is now. leave it open for bleeding, after its bled, close the valve. Anyone else try this or have an idea of why it wouldn't work? (im very open to constructive criticism)
