DIY Split IC with Video/Picture instructions
10-01-2013, 09:00 AM
#51
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The stock intercooler uses the pressure relief provided by the radiator cap (21 psi).
Splitting the cooling and using a power steering reservoir changes that, to effectively have no pressure relief (since power steering is under so such high pressure).
Anyone know if the power steering reservoir can be fitted with a different cap? Maybe a threaded radiator cap might fit? If not, could drill a hole in the existing cap and add a pressure relief valve such as: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Rel...-/200959146935
Splitting the cooling and using a power steering reservoir changes that, to effectively have no pressure relief (since power steering is under so such high pressure).
Anyone know if the power steering reservoir can be fitted with a different cap? Maybe a threaded radiator cap might fit? If not, could drill a hole in the existing cap and add a pressure relief valve such as: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Rel...-/200959146935
I use a Ford Cobra IC reservoir and it comes with a pressure cap (15psi IIRC). The other benefit of the Ford reservoir is that due to it be a return system, you don't ever have to worry about bleeding the system.
10-01-2013, 09:15 AM
#52
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There is a lot of misinformation on here about the IC system. The stock system is in fact split (engine coolant does not mix with supercharger coolant) and the real benefit / gain is realized when one adds a large tank dedicated to the SC circuit. Additionally, the IC circuit is a low pressure system.
I use a Ford Cobra IC reservoir and it comes with a pressure cap (15psi IIRC). The other benefit of the Ford reservoir is that due to it be a return system, you don't ever have to worry about bleeding the system.
I use a Ford Cobra IC reservoir and it comes with a pressure cap (15psi IIRC). The other benefit of the Ford reservoir is that due to it be a return system, you don't ever have to worry about bleeding the system.
10-01-2013, 10:14 AM
#53
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10-01-2013, 01:52 PM
#55
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2004 E55K AMG Wagon
There is a lot of misinformation on here about the IC system. The stock system is in fact split (engine coolant does not mix with supercharger coolant) and the real benefit / gain is realized when one adds a large tank dedicated to the SC circuit. Additionally, the IC circuit is a low pressure system.
I use a Ford Cobra IC reservoir and it comes with a pressure cap (15psi IIRC). The other benefit of the Ford reservoir is that due to it be a return system, you don't ever have to worry about bleeding the system.
I use a Ford Cobra IC reservoir and it comes with a pressure cap (15psi IIRC). The other benefit of the Ford reservoir is that due to it be a return system, you don't ever have to worry about bleeding the system.
Are you sure you are not confusing the fact that it is sometime referred to as a low temperature circuit.
As for not being split do you mean that the exchange is limited? I presume you accept that the systems are linked.
10-01-2013, 02:32 PM
#56
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I'm not sure I understand what you are saying here, you say that it is a low pressure system have you ever tried to bleed the system when the engine is in and the IC pumps off. The system seems to be under the same pressure as the engine coolant circuit as far as I can see.
This is the reservoir I am currently using (and yes I would like to migrate to a 5 gallon rear tank) : https://www.google.com/search?q=2003...%3B1600%3B1200
10-01-2013, 02:58 PM
#57
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10-01-2013, 03:11 PM
#58
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2004 E55K AMG Wagon
The IC circuit us under the same pressure as the main circuit, try disconnecting the outlet of the intercooler while the engine is running even while the IC Pumo is not running you will see just how much pressure it is under.
I do agree though that the exchange of liquid could well be limited and it does not run at the same temperature as the coolant, I tested water temp in and out the intercooler and heat exchanger while on several dyno runs and average was 158F across the system.
I do agree though that the exchange of liquid could well be limited and it does not run at the same temperature as the coolant, I tested water temp in and out the intercooler and heat exchanger while on several dyno runs and average was 158F across the system.
10-01-2013, 05:51 PM
#59
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There are several threads that have schematics and discuss this, sorry I cannot find them right now, but will look later and post for you (or you can open the hood and trace the lines).
Look at this thread and post #17 for a schematic https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-question.html
Look at this thread and post #17 for a schematic https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-question.html
10-01-2013, 05:55 PM
#60
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I don't believe that is correct. I disconnected the line coming out of the SC when the motor was on and the coolant just poured out due to gravity (vs. shooting out).
Once the IAT have reached a certain temperature or you have gone WOT, the IC pump turns on (with the factory circuitry). As such, folks often believe the two circuits are connected when in fact they are not.
10-02-2013, 12:12 AM
#61
Keep in mind the coolant will only pumpt out as fast as air can breath back into the coolant reservoir (which won't be that fast since the intercooler isn't directly on the engine coolant lines, thus little pressure pushing out).
I don't believe that is correct. I disconnected the line coming out of the SC when the motor was on and the coolant just poured out due to gravity (vs. shooting out).
Once the IAT have reached a certain temperature or you have gone WOT, the IC pump turns on (with the factory circuitry). As such, folks often believe the two circuits are connected when in fact they are not.
Once the IAT have reached a certain temperature or you have gone WOT, the IC pump turns on (with the factory circuitry). As such, folks often believe the two circuits are connected when in fact they are not.
10-02-2013, 07:46 AM
#62
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??? The flow of the IC coolant is dictated by the IC / heat exchanger pump.
10-02-2013, 08:54 AM
#63
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2004 E55K AMG Wagon
You will see 3 different readings
1. Engine on IC pump off
2. Engine off IC pump on
3. Engine on IC pump on
You will see through the 3 steps that the pressure within the IC circuit increases with each of the above steps.
10-07-2013, 04:00 PM
#65
Got my reservoir installed. I cut open the reservoir up and removed the screen filter (mine was used and full of oil and gunk).
To mount the reservoir lower, I flipped the reservoir bracket upside down and then it'll hold the reservoir lower in the engine bay.
I connected the second reservoir line to the intercooler bleed port. That way the system is self bleeding and the reservoir coolant is slowly circulated in the system. This is a similar configuration the CLS55 and SL55 use, as they also have the bleed port connected all the time. After driving for a few days I've checked the reservoir, and twice the fluid level dropped about an inch, meaning the system is still occasionally burping up air.
Coolant flowing through reservoir: http://videobam.com/BxdPJ
To mount the reservoir lower, I flipped the reservoir bracket upside down and then it'll hold the reservoir lower in the engine bay.
I connected the second reservoir line to the intercooler bleed port. That way the system is self bleeding and the reservoir coolant is slowly circulated in the system. This is a similar configuration the CLS55 and SL55 use, as they also have the bleed port connected all the time. After driving for a few days I've checked the reservoir, and twice the fluid level dropped about an inch, meaning the system is still occasionally burping up air.
Coolant flowing through reservoir: http://videobam.com/BxdPJ
Last edited by JoeNobody; 10-07-2013 at 04:17 PM. Reason: update link
01-05-2014, 10:20 AM
#67
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in & out...never have to worry about bleeding your SC circuit again.
01-05-2014, 10:53 AM
#68
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'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
No, get this type (you can find much better deals) 2003 2004 Mustang Cobra 4 6L DOHC supercharger Intercooler Overflow Reservoir | eBay
in & out...never have to worry about bleeding your SC circuit again.
in & out...never have to worry about bleeding your SC circuit again.
I can still set it up to circulate like JoeNobody did right?
01-05-2014, 11:00 AM
#69
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If there is an input and an output then it should be a self bleeding / purge tank....The reality is 1 qt reservoir really will do little if any benefit...get a 5 gallon tank and do it right the first time.
01-05-2014, 12:09 PM
#70
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'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
ETA: Meant to ask if there is a better set of instructions for wiring the new 010 pump for constant-on function? I've got one of those on order as well.
Last edited by G_Money; 01-05-2014 at 12:18 PM.
01-05-2014, 03:05 PM
#71
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Just install the new 010 pump. The factory wiring & ECU turns the pump on all the time once you go WOT or the circuit gets above a certain temperature.
03-12-2014, 09:38 PM
#72
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12' E559
as i was tossing my bmw res in today, i thought why cant i just plug the T fitting no need for the res. And i see few pages back someone did that. is that fine? im not going to be hardcore dragging mine or racing. Yet i read some of you say the system is split form factory..this point have no idea.
Have pump and H/E already.
Have pump and H/E already.
03-13-2014, 10:39 PM
#73
as i was tossing my bmw res in today, i thought why cant i just plug the T fitting no need for the res. And i see few pages back someone did that. is that fine? im not going to be hardcore dragging mine or racing. Yet i read some of you say the system is split form factory..this point have no idea.
Have pump and H/E already.
Have pump and H/E already.
04-06-2016, 11:50 PM
#74
Junior Member
Resurrecting this old thread, as it has a wonderfully simple and straight foreword write up.
I used this parts list and pictures to set up my split cooling and it has turned out very cost effective and beneficial to me and hopefully others as well. I was able to source all these parts out for under $50 CAD which is next to nothing compared to the returns I have gained. IATs take much longer to raise to where they comfortably sit at around ~75*F while cruising. An improvement of about 5*F during regular cruise.
It is kind of a b!tch to remove the hose clamp from the original T connector, but nothing impossible. Was much easier once I unhooked and removed the radiator hoses.
I recommend this for anyone thinking about doing it but hasn't taken that step yet. It looks stock as well, you'd think it's supposed to be there unless you actually know what's up
I used this parts list and pictures to set up my split cooling and it has turned out very cost effective and beneficial to me and hopefully others as well. I was able to source all these parts out for under $50 CAD which is next to nothing compared to the returns I have gained. IATs take much longer to raise to where they comfortably sit at around ~75*F while cruising. An improvement of about 5*F during regular cruise.
It is kind of a b!tch to remove the hose clamp from the original T connector, but nothing impossible. Was much easier once I unhooked and removed the radiator hoses.
I recommend this for anyone thinking about doing it but hasn't taken that step yet. It looks stock as well, you'd think it's supposed to be there unless you actually know what's up
Last edited by FeelThePower; 04-06-2016 at 11:55 PM.
05-18-2016, 11:45 AM
#75
Super Member
Resurrecting this old thread, as it has a wonderfully simple and straight foreword write up.
I used this parts list and pictures to set up my split cooling and it has turned out very cost effective and beneficial to me and hopefully others as well. I was able to source all these parts out for under $50 CAD which is next to nothing compared to the returns I have gained. IATs take much longer to raise to where they comfortably sit at around ~75*F while cruising. An improvement of about 5*F during regular cruise.
It is kind of a b!tch to remove the hose clamp from the original T connector, but nothing impossible. Was much easier once I unhooked and removed the radiator hoses.
I recommend this for anyone thinking about doing it but hasn't taken that step yet. It looks stock as well, you'd think it's supposed to be there unless you actually know what's up
I used this parts list and pictures to set up my split cooling and it has turned out very cost effective and beneficial to me and hopefully others as well. I was able to source all these parts out for under $50 CAD which is next to nothing compared to the returns I have gained. IATs take much longer to raise to where they comfortably sit at around ~75*F while cruising. An improvement of about 5*F during regular cruise.
It is kind of a b!tch to remove the hose clamp from the original T connector, but nothing impossible. Was much easier once I unhooked and removed the radiator hoses.
I recommend this for anyone thinking about doing it but hasn't taken that step yet. It looks stock as well, you'd think it's supposed to be there unless you actually know what's up
Any pics? I am considering this right now. I think my pump is not working on the highway
