Supercharger magnet removal
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 384
Likes: 13
From: Sweden
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Thanks man....
It's gonna bend the s/c coupler /flange it's flimsy,I told you heat it up and pull it off,the coil is so far away it's not gonna melt anything ,your just heating up the area where the threads of the bolt is,pull the two little pins out with vise grips and heat it up, I've done it twice ,no problems ,or if you don't want to do that try finding the MB puller for the coupler/flange
But good luck with that
But good luck with that
Before I could warn him he started the car and went of chirp sound gone S/C seem to not engage Chirp sound gone, he turned picked me up we went for some good runs and no car seems weak, we kept pushing it until we got to the garage one last boost damn there the chirp sound and since that is gone, we can feel it engage no doubt and car easily run 220 km/h on the highway..
I tried clean it for him with contact spray and left it dry of, I think we need remove it what you think can it get in between and destroy it?
What if washing engine do you cover it can water enter also?
I just want ask before doing to much,, the Dowel pins I read here something but you say heat it first
heating up the area where the threads of the bolt is
1 Picture Dowel pins
2 Where he put lube, stupid but to late..
Dowel pins.. hard to reach or?
Red arrow here he put lube chirp sound gone even after 1000 km driving..
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Johannesburg, South Africa
1999 ML320, 2009 Cayenne GTS
Yeah, i thought so also. Thanks anyway. But i just discovered that it is not the magnet itself that is faulty, but just protection diode inside SC electromagnetic clutch wire connector (yes, there is little diode inside SC clutch connnector which (diode itself) connects to both (+and-) wires of SC clutch wires). So no need to remove anything, just swap N1-A diode inside connector and game is on again...
So if in the future someone will have faulty magnet, then i suggest that you first look at the protection diode inside connector.
So if in the future someone will have faulty magnet, then i suggest that you first look at the protection diode inside connector.
There is zero resistance between the two terminals of the connector, it was pulling down the voltage of that circuit of the engine management to 10V, causing error codes on the SAI switchover solenoid and both oxygen sensors.
Is it feasible that this diode going faulty could cause this symptom? (I don't know much about electronics)
Thanks!!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 100
From: Florida
2002 CLK 55 AMG cabriolet Eurocharged
Hey Steve,
Diodes do a couple of things for cars. For one they protect the ECU and other important components like SAM and COM circuits.
If we look at a basic Alternator which charges the battery it generates an alternating current much like we use in the home.
A diode trio rectifies the AC to DC which our batteries need for life.
The magnetic clutch on the supercharger and some air conditioning clutch generates some eddy current like an alternator in the form of AC which can harm the electronics described above. A relay might contain a diode for motor circuits like the fuel pump and convertible top motors as well.
The diode drains harmful AC from the circuit.
You can test them with an ohm meter one way shows 0-10 or low resistance. reversing the leads should be in the Mega ohm to infinite range.
Make sense yet? the meter should only read in one direction across the diode with the external circuit disconnected. Hence Relay removed or key off.
There will be a resistance value of the clutch coil on the supercharger unless the diode is internal.
A good WIS test required here.
Hope this helps.
Gator
Diodes do a couple of things for cars. For one they protect the ECU and other important components like SAM and COM circuits.
If we look at a basic Alternator which charges the battery it generates an alternating current much like we use in the home.
A diode trio rectifies the AC to DC which our batteries need for life.
The magnetic clutch on the supercharger and some air conditioning clutch generates some eddy current like an alternator in the form of AC which can harm the electronics described above. A relay might contain a diode for motor circuits like the fuel pump and convertible top motors as well.
The diode drains harmful AC from the circuit.
You can test them with an ohm meter one way shows 0-10 or low resistance. reversing the leads should be in the Mega ohm to infinite range.
Make sense yet? the meter should only read in one direction across the diode with the external circuit disconnected. Hence Relay removed or key off.
There will be a resistance value of the clutch coil on the supercharger unless the diode is internal.
A good WIS test required here.
Hope this helps.
Gator
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Johannesburg, South Africa
1999 ML320, 2009 Cayenne GTS
Thanks for the reply Gator 
Turns out actually my diode is toast - 500+ kOhm in both directions. The low resistance on the coil was as designed, actually about 3 ohms. The low voltage on the circuit was caused by a faulty solder joint in the K40 relay unit...
So now trying to find a new diode... How risky is it not to have one in place? Does anyone know the specs of the diode required? I can't see a number on mine
Turns out actually my diode is toast - 500+ kOhm in both directions. The low resistance on the coil was as designed, actually about 3 ohms. The low voltage on the circuit was caused by a faulty solder joint in the K40 relay unit...
So now trying to find a new diode... How risky is it not to have one in place? Does anyone know the specs of the diode required? I can't see a number on mine
Last edited by StevenHaywood; Jun 10, 2017 at 07:40 AM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne Australia
MY06 E55
great, do you mind if I ask you a few questions ?
Is it just a case of pull the blower pulley off, pull the 2 pins, and get a gear puller on it ? ( perhaps some heat on the centre shaft ( away from the clutch frictions ?)
I want to do this and then rmachine the clutch face flat and reinstall it.
Does this sound achievable ? any suggestions to reinstall ?
Or can I pm you ? or call you ?
Thanks and Regards
Is it just a case of pull the blower pulley off, pull the 2 pins, and get a gear puller on it ? ( perhaps some heat on the centre shaft ( away from the clutch frictions ?)
I want to do this and then rmachine the clutch face flat and reinstall it.
Does this sound achievable ? any suggestions to reinstall ?
Or can I pm you ? or call you ?
Thanks and Regards
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 173
From: Long Island New York
2003 SL55,2020 GTC ,2017 GTS sold ,2002 G500 Sold,2003 SL500 Sold,
great, do you mind if I ask you a few questions ?
Is it just a case of pull the blower pulley off, pull the 2 pins, and get a gear puller on it ? ( perhaps some heat on the centre shaft ( away from the clutch frictions ?)
I want to do this and then rmachine the clutch face flat and reinstall it.
Does this sound achievable ? any suggestions to reinstall ?
Or can I pm you ? or call you ?
Thanks and Regards
Is it just a case of pull the blower pulley off, pull the 2 pins, and get a gear puller on it ? ( perhaps some heat on the centre shaft ( away from the clutch frictions ?)
I want to do this and then rmachine the clutch face flat and reinstall it.
Does this sound achievable ? any suggestions to reinstall ?
Or can I pm you ? or call you ?
Thanks and Regards
Pm sent
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
2005 E55 AMG
Yeah, i thought so also. Thanks anyway. But i just discovered that it is not the magnet itself that is faulty, but just protection diode inside SC electromagnetic clutch wire connector (yes, there is little diode inside SC clutch connnector which (diode itself) connects to both (+and-) wires of SC clutch wires). So no need to remove anything, just swap N1-A diode inside connector and game is on again...
So if in the future someone will have faulty magnet, then i suggest that you first look at the protection diode inside connector.
So if in the future someone will have faulty magnet, then i suggest that you first look at the protection diode inside connector.
can you help me with this? I think it may be my problem. How do I find what you are talking about here?
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
CLS 55 amg
It's gonna bend the s/c coupler /flange it's flimsy,I told you heat it up and pull it off,the coil is so far away it's not gonna melt anything ,your just heating up the area where the threads of the bolt is,pull the two little pins out with vise grips and heat it up, I've done it twice ,no problems ,or if you don't want to do that try finding the MB puller for the coupler/flange
But good luck with that
But good luck with that
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
AMG GLC43, Audi A4, Ferrari 360, MG MGA, Ferrari F355CH
Hi guys, I had this issue with replacing my coil packs and two of the black pieces flew out before I figured out how to use the toothpick trick. With the toothpick and a tiny amount of teflon lube spray before unlatching the remaining connectors came out by hand with no effort.
But for the 2 that are now latching back in but not really holding tight is there a possibility to replace the inner black piece inside the connector without touching/altering the harness and swapping the *entire* connector?
Thank you all!
But for the 2 that are now latching back in but not really holding tight is there a possibility to replace the inner black piece inside the connector without touching/altering the harness and swapping the *entire* connector?
Thank you all!
Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 99
Likes: 2
From: edmonton
2002 Acura TL-S and 2005 E320 4MATIC
replaced my 32's diode today, and no joy. used a 1n4007 or whatever the **** it's called, did the same thing i did for the a/c compressor (if you're using the C32's, it has no diode, unlike the W211's) wire the banded side to positive and other side to negative.
looks like i have a fried coupler. man i wish it was the diode.
oh well. still a nicer problem to have since it moves lol
