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Does anyone know how (if at all) the supercharger electromagnet itself (black round thing on the picture which have connector on it) is coming of the supercharger? My magnet is shot, so i have to change it, and i dont know if magnet itself goes off, or i must remove the whole front SC cover?
The electromagnetic clutch for the compressor is pressed on and will need to be removed by using a puller.
Good luck!
Yeah, i thought so also. Thanks anyway. But i just discovered that it is not the magnet itself that is faulty, but just protection diode inside SC electromagnetic clutch wire connector (yes, there is little diode inside SC clutch connnector which (diode itself) connects to both (+and-) wires of SC clutch wires). So no need to remove anything, just swap N1-A diode inside connector and game is on again...
So if in the future someone will have faulty magnet, then i suggest that you first look at the protection diode inside connector.
Yeah, i thought so also. Thanks anyway. But i just discovered that it is not the magnet itself that is faulty, but just protection diode inside SC electromagnetic clutch wire connector (yes, there is little diode inside SC clutch connnector which (diode itself) connects to both (+and-) wires of SC clutch wires). So no need to remove anything, just swap N1-A diode inside connector and game is on again...
So if in the future someone will have faulty magnet, then i suggest that you first look at the protection diode inside connector.
Yeah, i thought so also. Thanks anyway. But i just discovered that it is not the magnet itself that is faulty, but just protection diode inside SC electromagnetic clutch wire connector (yes, there is little diode inside SC clutch connnector which (diode itself) connects to both (+and-) wires of SC clutch wires). So no need to remove anything, just swap N1-A diode inside connector and game is on again...
So if in the future someone will have faulty magnet, then i suggest that you first look at the protection diode inside connector.
If you could post a little write up/diy with pictures, parts needed that would be sweet!
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Good stuff
super thanks, I even got this but been so busy like crazy so really appriciate this,
3.1 Funktion / Aufbau Magnetkupplung M113.99#:
has it all sweet, somebody spoke about a diode inside the supercharger connector I just can not find that connector lol am not sure it exist but this is great stuff super thanks man..
super thanks, I even got this but been so busy like crazy so really appriciate this,
3.1 Funktion / Aufbau Magnetkupplung M113.99#:
has it all sweet, somebody spoke about a diode inside the supercharger connector I just can not find that connector lol am not sure it exist but this is great stuff super thanks man..
You can see the diode in the last photo in section "3.1.1 defekte Magnetkupplung Y2/1:".
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Huge thanks for trying
Originally Posted by bbirdwell
You can see the diode in the last photo in section "3.1.1 defekte Magnetkupplung Y2/1:".
Thanks I saw it but that's a SLK2.8, Design 97.
Ours has a plug on the left side behind the left Valve but no diode inside. Not sure why Snogard mention it but I guess is why he never returned as promised with pictures / also sent PM to him but no reply.
(huge thanks for trying highly appreciated)
Please be sure to check as that link covers many different Superchargers from varies Engines not just the W211..
German is my Second language
If you know somebody with STAR you can turn that magnet on and off ,also you can just apply 12 volts to it to see if it's working ,I'm not sure you can use that magnet from Benz ,it may only come with the SC ,not sure, if you need to pull that black drum off ,heat the snout part of it with a map torch to 300 deg and pull off wear
gloves lol,don't use a puller it's just a thin piece and it will end easily
If there is a diode built into the clutch-coil it can be easily tested with an ohm meter. It will either read infinite or coil resistance. Reverse the meter leads and the opposite will read. Most circuits of this nature have protection in the relay.
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Good stuff
Originally Posted by cnterline
If you know somebody with STAR you can turn that magnet on and off ,also you can just apply 12 volts to it to see if it's working ,I'm not sure you can buy that magnet from Benz ,it may only come with the SC ,not sure, if you need to pull that black drum off ,heat the snout part of it with a map torch to 300 deg and pull off wear
gloves lol,don't use a puller it's just a thin piece and it will end easily
Thanks man that's good stuff nice will different keep this.
So issue fixed this is kind of embarrassing but all is OK SC clutch is working just fine it seems I just got to used to drive it and the Eurocharge pulley kit installed the belt slippage is gone that's why I don't hear the famous Chirp
Drove aprox 700 km speedblind and thought the SC clutch is not engaging miss the chirp sound but it engages so smoth now before it was really rough and I did not not the famous sound is belt slippage I heard it came from the SC clutch but just come from AMG center and they tested the clutch with Star as you guys described. Took a test drive and he just laughed
I really sorry guys but still I believe this thread can help others to and your answers are really valuable like. Thanks alot to everyone
The Supercharger Clutch assembly is assembled similar to an AC compressor clutch.
With age the metal contact surfaces start to wear on the clutch and pulley. The clearance will increase creating engagement problems hence (slip/chirp).
The aftermarket used to resurface them for AC compressor.
Common AC compressor clutch service tools should be used to work on the supercharger. If excess heat is applied to the coil from a torch for instance, the epoxy resin insulating the wingdings will melt and cause short circuit.
I have serviced quite a few AC compressors in the past. The map gas might work but I would recommend another method.
My 0.02
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Thanks a lot
Originally Posted by GatorMB
The Supercharger Clutch assembly is assembled similar to an AC compressor clutch.
With age the metal contact surfaces start to wear on the clutch and pulley. The clearance will increase creating engagement problems hence (slip/chirp).
The aftermarket used to resurface them for AC compressor.
Common AC compressor clutch service tools should be used to work on the supercharger. If excess heat is applied to the coil from a torch for instance, the epoxy resin insulating the wingdings will melt and cause short circuit.
I have serviced quite a few AC compressors in the past. The map gas might work but I would recommend another method.
My 0.02
Thanks GatorMB
Yes I agree using heat should be a voided, perhabs ok if replacing the Machentic itselfe anyway but on the new no.
Here is a good picture with clear details what is inside the Machentic...
Have you ever heard about the diode that is mebtioned?
The only plug to the compressor I can find is on the left side but it does not contain any diode....
So if the Slip/Chirp sound is gone but the compressor / clutch engage?
Amg center test drove my car and said there is nothing wrong we can clearly feel it engages and hear the hissing sound but when he saw my new pulleys from Eurocharged he just went oh wow OK you you didn't tell that and belts are brand new he just said the sound Slip/Chirp comes from belt...
Anyway whats your opinion?
If a short occur in the Machentic Part isn't there a fuse or that will blown to protect it?
(It seems one get speedblind lol driving to much )
A hiss sound can indicate a worn clutch and pulley.
Once the clutch, pulley, and coil are worn - The clutch face will start turning blue from excess heat, The pulley bearing will start to loose its grease and oil deposits will further enhance the slipping.
As mentioned before- A little too much heat from an external source will brittle the coil winding insulation. This makes a weak magnet force or soon a short circuit. (load test the circuit voltage if possible and report)
I will post some ideas for pullers that should be used for servicing this assembly soon.
I am not sure about speed blind but when you work overnight like me White line fever is not welcome. AMG makes some serious adrenaline to overcome boredom.
Works for me.
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
:)
Originally Posted by GatorMB
Hmmm!!!
A hiss sound can indicate a worn clutch and pulley.
Once the clutch, pulley, and coil are worn - The clutch face will start turning blue from excess heat, The pulley bearing will start to loose its grease and oil deposits will further enhance the slipping.
As mentioned before- A little too much heat from an external source will brittle the coil winding insulation. This makes a weak magnet force or soon a short circuit. (load test the circuit voltage if possible and report)
I will post some ideas for pullers that should be used for servicing this assembly soon.
I am not sure about speed blind but when you work overnight like me White line fever is not welcome. AMG makes some serious adrenaline to overcome boredom.
Works for me.
Gator, Soon SC
I hear you and thanks alot looking forward to that
Would very much appreciate that.
Ever seen the clutch less pulley?
https://youtu.be/2q-ZoeG9NP4
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Originally Posted by GatorMB
Hmmm!!!
A hiss sound can indicate a worn clutch and pulley.
Once the clutch, pulley, and coil are worn - The clutch face will start turning blue from excess heat, The pulley bearing will start to loose its grease and oil deposits will further enhance the slipping.
As mentioned before- A little too much heat from an external source will brittle the coil winding insulation. This makes a weak magnet force or soon a short circuit. (load test the circuit voltage if possible and report)
I will post some ideas for pullers that should be used for servicing this assembly soon.
I am not sure about speed blind but when you work overnight like me White line fever is not welcome. AMG makes some serious adrenaline to overcome boredom.
Works for me.
Heating the hub won't spread to the windings for a long time, and they have to be designed to take quite a bit of heat to be a clutch coil on a hot supercharger anyway. I wouldn't be afraid to do mine this way. I would be careful not to overheat the oil seal, as it is in a more direct line of heat transfer. If I had the right puller I'd try that first, but I never seem to have the right tools for the job, even when I buy them. Been getting around it so long now I could probably build a space shuttle with a couple pairs of vice grips and an arc welder.
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
Originally Posted by StarvingArtist
Heating the hub won't spread to the windings for a long time, and they have to be designed to take quite a bit of heat to be a clutch coil on a hot supercharger anyway. I wouldn't be afraid to do mine this way. I would be careful not to overheat the oil seal, as it is in a more direct line of heat transfer. If I had the right puller I'd try that first, but I never seem to have the right tools for the job, even when I buy them. Been getting around it so long now I could probably build a space shuttle with a couple pairs of vice grips and an arc welder.
Sweet, oh and about Chirp sound "Slip Factor"
Source: WEISTEC
Been kinda busy new house hunting and car hunting for the wife but managed to get out to the shop this weekend.
I promised a few ideas on an alternate method for servicing the SC clutch assembly so here goes:
These work on Harrison, Nippondenso or anything the threads fit.
When I was Servicing automobiles. These would work on most anything. The puller is universal but built for A6 (450SL). Pressure pullers are for late nippondenso, GM. Most of my Ford tools FX15 were home made along with yokogawa etc. The idea is to utilize the threads of the clutch mount for removing the clutch only.
The pulley can be removed the same way as the coil but a nose cone protection, This protects the Compressor and in this case the SC. These tools will likely not work but I have not serviced mine yet.
Once the clutch nut is removed, it is safe to pry against the pulley with a couple of screwdrivers if fitment is giving. Forcing it off will bend and warp the clutch plate. The pulley with bearing similar but may require a puller. Better safe than sorry.
This puller with many accessories has bailed me out many times but it is expensive for a one time use. Take note of the smaller jaw fitment, I believe something like this would work perfect on the SC coil. I would use a bearing or other means for protecting the SC nose cone. Do not pull the coil (magnet) off with the SC driveshaft as a support.
Map gas can produce some serious heat, I have used it to mend commercial AC systems in a rooftop pinch and it will work on a Buildings hot water pipes live.
You guys can try it I will not condone it but the SC bearings are sealed with special grease and the bearings are held in place with an epoxy locking compound. I think the safest way to use the gas is during a bearing service going on in other threads.
My 02, Gator
Last edited by GatorMB; Jul 16, 2016 at 12:13 PM.
Reason: Spelling and content
It's gonna bend the s/c coupler /flange it's flimsy,I told you heat it up and pull it off,the coil is so far away it's not gonna melt anything ,your just heating up the area where the threads of the bolt is,pull the two little pins out with vise grips and heat it up, I've done it twice ,no problems ,or if you don't want to do that try finding the MB puller for the coupler/flange
But good luck with that
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