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What is emergency mode ?
You say it runs at 100%
You say it runs at 85%
You say it stops because it only runs at 100%
I am really lost with this one. Give a bit more accurate information so we can help.
i say that when it runs at 100% that is emergency mode and it stops in few minutes.
its maximum rate for working is 85% of power
i cant fix the cables from 4 to 2
As far as flow rate and cooling capacity most people get confused on water cooling flow rates.
Is to fast a flow rate bad for a "cooling radiator" ...yes as it needs time to have the air flow to pull the heat out of the water.
Now remember we have two things going on. One is the coolers up front are "cooling" down or "pulling" heat out of the water from air flow through the cooler/ cooler's.
Two, we have an under blower cooler pulling heat out of the "air". This will need to have much much faster water flow through it do to the fact that the extreme "fast" air flow from boost and rpm are very high. The temperatures climb at a very fast rate and is why fast water flow is needed. The cooler does not look at it as "ok this water is going to come through and we need to give up all our heat to it before it leaves. But...it never leaves, it is a constant flow of cooler water.
I have this setup too ( 2 x pierburg CWA100 7.06754.05.0 (same as tuners sell relabeled for x3 price ) on my V12 + doubled intercooler radiator surface + 2 SPAL Fans + a standalone automatic fan speed module
I am below max temps 100% of the time, even in the summer
i'm happy with the setup and now adding water/ethanol kit
Saab 900 Aero, Volvo 850 R, Audi S4, MB GL 450, Buell X1, KTM 1190 Adventure
Dear all,
I got the so called „Superflo“ pump from VRP, but mine came with a two pin connector and corresponding two wire pigtail, is this a CWA100 or some kind of Chinese copy???
Seems to me like the other mentioned CWA100 setups have different connectors.
Also, I would like to use the original wires from the Bosch 010 pump and use the signal to trigger the relay for the CWA 100 instead of having it running all the time on key on.
can someone tell me what connector I need to connect to the original wiring without hacking it up?
I got the so called „Superflo“ pump from VRP, but mine came with a two pin connector and corresponding two wire pigtail, is this a CWA100 or some kind of Chinese copy???
Seems to me like the other mentioned CWA100 setups have different connectors.
Also, I would like to use the original wires from the Bosch 010 pump and use the signal to trigger the relay for the CWA 100 instead of having it running all the time on key on.
can someone tell me what connector I need to connect to the original wiring without hacking it up?
Saab 900 Aero, Volvo 850 R, Audi S4, MB GL 450, Buell X1, KTM 1190 Adventure
Thanks! Especially the PNs for connectors will be helpful I guess. I will check them all out.
In respect to the pump, however, I assume the VRP with 2 pin connector must be some kind of Chinese copy. Does not say Pierburg anywhere and they do not say what it is. I hope it really flows better than Bosch 010.
Saab 900 Aero, Volvo 850 R, Audi S4, MB GL 450, Buell X1, KTM 1190 Adventure
I checked the connectors in the link provided, but these do not help!
I have the connector for the VRP pump from VRP.
I am looking for a connector to connect to the connector on the W211 E55 stock wiring harness which normally plugs into the Bosch 010 pump. So essentially the connector on the 010 pump but for some wires is what I want.
Hey Macarena! Not sure I understand your issue. You say that when you connect power to the pump and an additional 12v to the PWM input pin as suggested by others, the pump does not run??? Because the pump expects a 85% PWM signal max instead of 100%?
Hi,
I'm a little late to provide any input but learned a lot from this thread about CWA100 pumps for use in air/water inter cooler so thought my findings may be of use to some-one.
My car is actually a kit car (though I also have an SLK!) and previously ran a Davies Craig pump which was pretty gutless as an inter cooler pump and searching for a better pump led me here.
Bought a CWA100 and at first just had it running with +12 and ground (no resistor on the sense line needed). When power is first applied it waits 3 seconds before staring then runs fast though prob 97% as explained earlier in this thread. I then read about the emergency mode so installed the resistor to +12v and used it in this manner (12v / ground / resistor) for a couple of years and the pump ran at high speed permanently.
Recently decided to look into proper pump control and scoping the pump's signal line with just +12v and ground attached (no resistor) to the pump shows that the CWA100 is cycling the sense line up and down with a cycle time of about 3 seconds. It doesn't matter what you do with the sense line at this point (+12 or ground it) the pump still runs at the same speed and this speed in my install causes some frothing as explained higher up this thread. Obviously, if you ground the sense line the 3 second cycling is not seen on the scope anymore but there is no speed change. The spec for the pump says that it needs 3ms pulse to get the pump into control mode but mine starts up fine with a much smaller one than that.
I used 150htz and played around with the duty cycle to see what happened.
I found that it doesn't matter what conditions prevail at the time you apply power to the pump (resistor / no resistoir / sense line +!"v / sense line GND) there is still a delay of about 3 seconds after power before the pump starts but if the PWM signal is present the pump will start at the commanded speed otherwise it will start at 97%
When the control pin sees a suitable input signal the control pin cycle time as seen on the scope (previously 3 seconds) changes to about 1.5 seconds and the pump speed is varied accordingly.
I'm using a spare injector driver in the main engine ecu to provide the PWM signal by grounding the pump signal line. At first i had a 500 ohm current limiting resistor between the ecu and the signal line of the pump but found that wasn't needed as it just meant that the signal line wasn't getting a 'full' ground but still within the pump's spec of < 3 volts.
So, +12v and ground and nothing else = 3 second delay then high speed. Apply PWM signal to reduce speed - no resistors required.
Hope this helps someone
Last edited by 20/20 vision; 05-12-2020 at 02:28 AM.
Reason: typo presnt
Hi,
I'm a little late to provide any input but learned a lot from this thread about CWA100 pumps for use in air/water inter cooler so thought my findings may be of use to some-one.
My car is actually a kit car (though I also have an SLK!) and previously ran a Davies Craig pump which was pretty gutless as an inter cooler pump and searching for a better pump led me here.
Bought a CWA100 and at first just had it running with +12 and ground (no resistor on the sense line needed). When power is first applied it waits 3 seconds before staring then runs fast though prob 97% as explained earlier in this thread.
Scoping the pump's signal line with just +12v and ground attached to the pump shows that the CWA100 is cycling the sense line up and down with a cycle time of about 3 seconds. It doesn't matter what you do with the sense line at this point (+12 or ground it) the pump still runs at the same speed and this speed in my install causes some frothing as explained higher up this thread. Obviously, if you ground the sense line the 3 second cycling is not seen on the scope anymore but there is no speed change. The spec for the pump says that it needs 3ms pulse to get the pump into control mode but mine starts up fine with a much smaller one than that.
I used 150htz and played around with the duty cycle to see what happened.
I found that it doesn't matter what conditions prevail at the time you apply power to the pump, there is still a delay of about 3 seconds after power before the pump starts but if the PWM signal is present the pump will start at the commanded speed otherwise it will start at 97%
When the control pin sees a suitable input signal the control pin cycle time as seen on the scope (previously 3 seconds) changes to about 1.5 seconds and the pump speed is varied accordingly.
I'm using a spare injector driver in the main engine ecu to provide the PWM signal by grounding the pump signal line. At first i had a 500 ohm current limiting resistor between the ecu and the signal line of the pump but found that wasn't needed as it just meant that the signal line wasn't getting a 'full' ground but still within the pump's spec of < 3 volts.
So, +12v and ground and nothing else = 3 second delay then high speed. Apply PWM signal to reduce speed - no resistors required.
Hope this helps someone
same thing, years ago when I moved from one oem to 2 x oierburg did the same, no resistor
Installing the upgraded Pierburg pump on my w220 S600, but the stock intercooler pump bracket doesnt work with the larger pump. What have you guys been doing to secure the pump to the car? Do you use the bracket from the N/A 63 SLS?
So the cwa100-3 requires a 12v and ground to work and basically running your own standalone circuit using key on power to switch a relay is what I got from this thread. Now who has had one using a killer chiller and what are your thoughts?
Installing the upgraded Pierburg pump on my w220 S600, but the stock intercooler pump bracket doesnt work with the larger pump. What have you guys been doing to secure the pump to the car? Do you use the bracket from the N/A 63 SLS?
So the cwa100-3 requires a 12v and ground to work and basically running your own standalone circuit using key on power to switch a relay is what I got from this thread. Now who has had one using a killer chiller and what are your thoughts?
yes use relay = key on position 2 = pump on
I upgraded radiator and hooked up water/methanol from weistec
So pin 4 is 12v and pin 1 is ground with no wires going to pin 2 and 3. I am going with a killer chiller so I hope the pump would not pump to high of a vum and give the coolant a chance for the killer chiller to do its thing.
QUOTE=pmercury;8070998]yes use relay = key on position 2 = pump on
I upgraded radiator and hooked up water/methanol from weistec[/QUOTE]
then i have add a fuse to front fuse box for PWM to in key 20amp fuse and power to a constant 12v power fuse and (i forget which ones) but the constant seemed to kill battery and when i removed the 12v one it was hot. any suggestions?
then i have add a fuse to front fuse box for PWM to in key 20amp fuse and power to a constant 12v power fuse and (i forget which ones) but the constant seemed to kill battery and when i removed the 12v one it was hot. any suggestions?
You need to find a circuit that comes on when the key is in position 2.
I have one problem no one mentioned earlier with CWA 100 — it's attached to original wiring (just ground and battery) as it has to work fine with full speed:
1. Chassis ground
2. Nothing
3. Nothing
4. Battery
Strangely it stays always on even with removed ignition key so it drains the battery. There were no issues with draining the battery with old OEM pump and the same wiring. And as I've read in this discussion there are others that used native wiring for new replaced pump. Service that are doing the job is little confused about situation with the battery.
OK, I have C30 AMG — diesel, but to my mind it should have no differences in pump management. Or easier it would be to ask to change wiring to some other fuse so it'll turn off properly?
Any suggestions?
03-15-2020, 12:32 AM
