82mm TB bucking issue
11-25-2014, 07:32 AM
#76
I have 5k miles on my o2 sensors
11-25-2014, 03:57 PM
#81
Once again, a leak in that same area causing driveability issues and map codes....
11-25-2014, 03:59 PM
#82
MBWorld Fanatic!
Someone on this message board also told me 5 times already this afternoon to use mb sealant
, but I think I will take the high road and going to buy another sc snout and will make it right to have 4 bolts together 
me
11-25-2014, 04:13 PM
#84
You can still replace the inlet for peace of mind, but the MB sealant, or equivalent is preferred over a gasket in that instance. So seal it up and put the 3 bolts on, it'll be fine I promise and your car will be running until you get another inlet made.
Tell whoever makes your new inlet to drill out the old bolt holes first and weld them solid. That way you don't hit a pocket of air when drilling/tapping/threadserting the new locations and have the threads want to make a diagonal turn towards the old hole.
Tell whoever makes your new inlet to drill out the old bolt holes first and weld them solid. That way you don't hit a pocket of air when drilling/tapping/threadserting the new locations and have the threads want to make a diagonal turn towards the old hole.
11-25-2014, 09:25 PM
#89
MBWorld Fanatic!
What 3rd bolt? 4th bolt cant be tighten because of wrong helicoil. I sprayed a can of break cleaner to find a vac leak, but leak is under the tb, helicoil that is closest to brake booster is no good.
11-25-2014, 10:00 PM
#90
LOL! My bad meant to say 4th bolt. I just had Speeddriven do this for me turn out really nice, using the stock housing. Can send you a picture if you like.
11-25-2014, 10:03 PM
#91
MBWorld Fanatic!
11-25-2014, 10:26 PM
#92
No not yet, going with the fix 77mm pulley so will have the new 84mm pulley for sale soon. Like you I'm not sure if knowing how it looks is a good thing lol! Do you mine me asking who did that housing?
11-29-2014, 05:52 PM
#93
I haven't read the first page recently so you may have covered this, if so ignore.
But somehow your symptoms sound like mine when I had one of my plug wires loose. The stock wires can be a serious pain in snapping them securely back in place especially when they are old or stock. After having one too many of them pop off when driving normally or under WOT (all this started after I disconnected them for TB, then again some months apart for header install), I simply bought a replacement Bosch set from Amazon and I haven't had the shaking hiccuping ever since.
Also popping off is my description for: Its still attached, but when you really push HARD and rotate the wire at the same time, it pops in further. If you pull on any of the wires and they come off with normal everyday force, it was not in properly, it should take enough force that you might have to use a plug remover to take off for it to be in place properly
One last thing....most of these TBs especially the NON Mercedes ones tend to have the Y-pipe (rubber snorkel) propped nice and tight (or so you think) against the TB and not actually slip over sealed like the stock one was. I removed that weird jerry-rigging contraption and used a silicone hose with worm clamps (Amazon.com: Spectre Performance 9771 Black 4" Intake Coupler: Automotive). I think that has gone a long way in eliminating my MAP code (500 plus miles and counting)
But somehow your symptoms sound like mine when I had one of my plug wires loose. The stock wires can be a serious pain in snapping them securely back in place especially when they are old or stock. After having one too many of them pop off when driving normally or under WOT (all this started after I disconnected them for TB, then again some months apart for header install), I simply bought a replacement Bosch set from Amazon and I haven't had the shaking hiccuping ever since.
Also popping off is my description for: Its still attached, but when you really push HARD and rotate the wire at the same time, it pops in further. If you pull on any of the wires and they come off with normal everyday force, it was not in properly, it should take enough force that you might have to use a plug remover to take off for it to be in place properly
One last thing....most of these TBs especially the NON Mercedes ones tend to have the Y-pipe (rubber snorkel) propped nice and tight (or so you think) against the TB and not actually slip over sealed like the stock one was. I removed that weird jerry-rigging contraption and used a silicone hose with worm clamps (Amazon.com: Spectre Performance 9771 Black 4" Intake Coupler: Automotive). I think that has gone a long way in eliminating my MAP code (500 plus miles and counting)
I'm going to try this myself, since it's cheap and might cleanup the throttle stumbling issues I've been having.
Would a 3.5" coupler work better?
11-30-2014, 09:32 PM
#95
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2005 e55
my motor is out of my car, so i used my down time to upgrade my throttle body... i am using an S550 unit, a fabricated adapter plate, fabricated inlet elbow and a 3.5" coupler with a single clamp... the stub coming out of the TB is 3.5" aluminum and the piece that attaches the stub to the factory rubber tubing is ovalized 3" tubing...there is 3/4" of flange on the TB and 1/2" on the inlet pipe... i cut a silicone boot down to 1.25" long and put a single clamp right on the joint... it is VERY attached...
