W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
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What do you think of my AFR???

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Old 10-21-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55
The purpose of this thread is to discuss MAP or other issues that may cause this event! Just sharing my information to help the community grow and keep everyone healthy! Like I said I would do by thge time the mile started. It is related to the larger pulley`s. Say 195mm and up. Again, I have not logged boost much over 15 psi. Maybe one run at 16.2 on a data logger. Not sure how accurate that is.
Thank you for sharing. People like me, who have limited knowledge about the E55, GREATLY appreciate these types of threads!!!

Here is my 2 cents. How about you changing the pulley back down to a 168 and see if you get blow by and keep switching increasing the pulley size until you get the blow by? If I understood this thread correctly, that could help you narrow down if its a MAP issue?
Old 10-21-2011, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by skratch77
My car is lean down low,like 14.5 at peak torque.if I run a map clamp can I trick it to add fuel?
What are your Fuel mods?
What brooke is taling about is more than just a lean spot but more of a hiccup in the ecu. No matter how much fuel you put at it; it just stays lean.
Old 10-21-2011, 04:08 PM
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Edit never mind -- missed the blow by issue.. and other details ... need to read more

Last edited by turbo97se; 10-21-2011 at 06:23 PM.
Old 10-21-2011, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jcjmw
Thank you for sharing. People like me, who have limited knowledge about the E55, GREATLY appreciate these types of threads!!!

Here is my 2 cents. How about you changing the pulley back down to a 168 and see if you get blow by and keep switching increasing the pulley size until you get the blow by? If I understood this thread correctly, that could help you narrow down if its a MAP issue?
I ran the 200mm for several weeks. Just drove easy, unless road tuning or dynoing. over 3 weeks of dynos with the 200mm, no blow. I road tuned with Jerry last Thursday and then drove easy to dyn (120 miles), used VP109 and first pull oil blew out. Started to make a second pull to check Torque and oil blewout and TQ dropped 140 ft lbs. So, will do leakdown and pull motor based on results. 185MM was rich with ported heads, as it was still on the before head tune that 7% fuel was added to tune by accident. Still made a lot of power but I did not have time to tune a set up that I wasn`t running in the Texas mile. So, 185mm came off and got my big arms out and Torqued the 200mm on!

Originally Posted by sneakyneon
What are your Fuel mods?
What brooke is taling about is more than just a lean spot but more of a hiccup in the ecu. No matter how much fuel you put at it; it just stays lean.
Yes , Exactly what he says! It can not be tuned and the whole map goes lean after 4500, plus timing leaps up too. I saw 27 degress of timing and it leaped from about 19 deg to that. This is over multiple dynos. I have other dynos over severla weeks that show the flatter leaner plateau. That is a better word than spike. Tuner kept throwing fuel at it and no change was made. Matter of fact, if you leaned the lower end, it also seemed to lean the 4500 and up some too. Hard to say but seemed that way. ither way, it was locked out above 4500.

Originally Posted by turbo97se
I was wondering if you are actually looking at the MAP voltage too? Is it going up linearly? Are you staying in the linear range of the MAP sensor? The MAP clamp is good but then you need another MAP sensor and fuel controller/additional injector to dial the rest in... just some random thoughts ..
Did not, as I hoped it was adjusted in the last flash during road tune, before driving to dyno. If not, had planned to tap the wire and check it.
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Last edited by Exotic-metal55; 10-21-2011 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:37 PM
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do you datalog knock?
Old 10-21-2011, 06:38 PM
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LOL you are a fast reader ... I found I did not read your post entirely so thought I should go back and read again more closely.

Yes definitely see if the MAP sensor is moving linearly up in voltage. The only other stuff I could possibly think of is that the mapping has an issue. Finding the map locations in the files is interesting and a skill. I wonder if the map addressing is the same for all AMGs. It's a boneheaded thing that should not happen but could .. ie altering the wrong part of the map.First things first is to check out that MAP sensor by logging it. Do you have a seperate analog boost gauge? Your other observations are dead on .. ported heads lower the boost level

Stock ECUs are nice .. but maybe with as far as you are pushing things ... you may be entering standalone territory...probably not the advice you wanted to hear though ..

Good Luck man! Very nice project! Thanks for sharing all the details .. good and bad!
Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55
Did not, as I hoped it was adjusted in the last flash during road tune, before driving to dyno. If not, had planned to tap the wire and check it.
Old 10-23-2011, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by chiromikey
do you datalog knock?
No, I am not able to monitor knock. If I was a tuner , I sure would though. I was told my tune would pull up to 15 deg. if knock was detected, so that is a lot more than stock.

Even going to a higher bar MAP sensor would require it to be re-scaled and there lies more potential tuning skills.

I would like to avoid the MAP clamp (adjustable potentiomter) but will use it if no other ideas come up.

I guess de-tuning a little bit (lower boost)will be one of the first things, after the motor goes back in. Just really like the 200mm combo

Part of the fuel system feeding the rail. With ABC stuff mixed in, you have to look hard to follow the lines.

Black part is Bosch 044 pump and red is a race fuel filter.Grey lines are 6AN 350psi push on fuel hose (oil field stuff). Black line with red stripe, is 8AN starlight fuel hose , nomex wrapped and teflon lined for E85. After filter, duel lines with duel Y fittings feed the 8an main fuel line. The line Y`s , so one line keeps the return fuel line and small ID fuel sensor happy. Tested it all and works great!

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CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

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Last edited by Exotic-metal55; 10-23-2011 at 08:46 PM.
Old 10-28-2011, 04:50 PM
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2003 CL55
I will put up a few more dyno sheets to show this event and how it transpired over 3 week period soon..
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.

CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

www.ultimatepd.com
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Old 10-29-2011, 10:36 AM
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Exotic, I just checked part numbers in EPC and your car should have the exact same MAP sensor thats in the V12 cars. I have ploted that sensor on the bench with a scope and it reads perfectly fine up to 29.4psi. After that it goes past 4.5v and the response is no longer linear. If you want send the sensor to me, I can plot it so you know for sure if the sensor is defective.

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Old 10-29-2011, 01:56 PM
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^ That's interesting to know, I believe sneakyneon tested his with similar results.
Any chance you have had an opportunity to check a 55K ECU file as well? If so, my question would be, even though the sensor can read that high, at what psi does the map sensor file end?
Old 11-11-2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by lowprofile
^ That's interesting to know, I believe sneakyneon tested his with similar results.
Any chance you have had an opportunity to check a 55K ECU file as well? If so, my question would be, even though the sensor can read that high, at what psi does the map sensor file end?
I have not checked the file, as I do not have a way to do that. My ECU is out of the car though and a few people suggested sending it off to be checked.

Right now, the focus is getting cylinder walls repaired, new pistons/rings and getting the engine back in. The forged pistons really held up well, Hypers would have blown to peices and trashed the motor, like my first kaboom did.

Sent stock cams off and looking into custom blower cams, new billet stall converter and add a few more tricks to my forged pistons. Another block is going out to be sleeved/built and keep around as a spare or if any of my friends need one this winter.

BTW, my number 7 was the worst hole in the motor. Piston had one small detonation bump on the top edge and that scored the wall real deep. Main cause of blow by and oil out the dip stick. As you can see, the gauge goes up the whole wall and past wear the rings travel. Again, for how lean the motor went, forged piston held up really well. My damage was caught quick and repairs are contained to bore, pistons and rings.




stock VS forged

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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.

CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
Old 11-11-2011, 11:24 AM
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Damn Brooke I hate that for you man. Just goes to show even if you have a built bottom end, you can still have catastrophic engine failure. Were your walls sleeved?

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