I love threads like this...

 

I've had the pleasure of running with Alan & Mike many a times and I was there when he ran 10.77 and in short 180 with NO meth and 16" MT's

 

Rflow is my best friend,he hasn't been on here in a while as he doesn't have his E anymore..He ran that several years ago with old school mods,he had an 05 with shorty headers,80mm tb,170 pulley (I believe),pump and h/e,ice tank in the trunk,quiafe diff and some sauce.. He later added some PTE cams but never got to run it the track with them.. The ecu was tuned by Active Auto Works..

 

So what did they say?

 

Trying to being this back, hate it when a thread with potential just POOFS into the back pages. Any updates? Price? Lost in your secrecy? SHARE! LOL. This appears to be the best route vs rear tanks ,stacking H/E etc that add weight ,etc and blah blah blah.

 

They can do it and have the kit. Your shop has to do custom Fab work but nothing bad at all. I did not follow through with it yet as I am concentrating my efforts on another project with the beast.

 

As someone that's racing a purpose built car on slicks up on two wheels regularly I gotta say you really should stop. Between idiots driving through the burnout box instead of driving around and backing in with street tires and thinking the burnout box is a bird bath we don't need any more water on the track. That can kill someone.

 

Apparently the RACE setup prevents the water on the track issue. Will post back with pics once completed. Guess the car will be down again soon as I have some nice lines made.

 

Are you going ahead with the install on the kinkaid? Let me know how it goes.

 

Yeah stuff on the track can be bad. Listen to the end of the video of the Benz, he hit something and you can hear him break loose. Luckily he happen to be running his traction control on (which he usually doesn't do) so it possibly saved him from looping the car in to the wall considering he would have been traveling at well over 100mph at that point when the tires decided to start going buck while from something wet on the track.

click

 

Any updates on this??

 

+1

 

Yes, go over to **************.com and there are a couple members just finished installing theirs with write ups.

 

Thanks..

 

I took Joe's suggestion (find a way to divert the HE, for summer time, b/c during summer time the HE actually prevents the KC from being as efficient as it can be).

I looked everywhere for a 3 way diverter valve that was small and looked somewhat strong. The only one was this one - a diverter valve made for marine use: http://www.thmarine.com/products/Aer...Diverter-Valve. I came across a lot of diverter valves, but they were heavy, big or not actually able to give me 3 diverter flow choices (where when you divert flow to one side it also blocks flow to the other side). I ended up finding a marine-use diverter valve. Its plastic, so light and small. Since its made for marine use, I am hoping it also means it is somewhat strong enough for daily use. I did have to cut off that extended plastic end that sticks out (its meant to hold a hard wire so you can use a push/pull wire to open/close/divert the flow). In this way, the "summer" flow from the pump goes into the KC, then to the IC and then back to the tank (no water flow to/from the HE). For "winter" flow, you divert the flow from the pump to the HE, you will need another T valve with a open/close valve attached to it, so it can flow back into the KC. I have a sketch showing how I plumbed everything but am not able to upload right now.


Here is a picture of the diverter valves and everything. I know it looks a little "frankensteinish" but it works. Usually, all of this is hidden away by the pump/behind the bumper. But, I wanted a setup that allowed me to open the hood and with the push of valve make the change / divert the flow from the pump to the KC (bypassing the HE for summer) or the pump to the HE and then to the KC (incorporating the HE for winter). Also, this pic shows the KN filters from the CAI as offset, but I will be making the adjustments to make sure both filters are at the same level.

I also attached a pic of how it looks with the hood closed. After all of this, Joe was correct. The KC was more efficient with the HE out of the loop/diverted for summer time. Today ambiant was 84 and the KC had the IATs 27 to 33 degrees below ambiant (51-57 IATs) in normal city driving and 22 to 27 below ambiant (57 to 62 IATs) at highway speeds around 75 to 85 mph. I was not able to do any decent WOT runs to see where the IATS were after WOT or back to back WOT runs. I am hoping to have time and a clear road to do so by end of this week.

 

Would something like this valve work?
http://www.andersonbrass.com/rv_four_way_whp.php

 

It might. Do they have a 3 way that is 5/8 or 3/4 NPT? I looked on the site, but did not see it.