almost done the ultimate split cooling setup(not selling anything lol) just a teaser
And a final thought - - - how are the stock factory cast pistons going to stand up to the power increases from the forthcoming EVO IC's? I know some of you serious racers already experienced failures. As you start to edge ever closer to that 200 BHP/litre figure you really need to begin to look at fairly exotic modifications to maintain good reliability.
skratch, if u recall years ago i went a similar route...a larger h/e with a secondary h/e with twin spal fans into a large trunk reservoir. i found and reported that it really was no better than a single larger h/e because of the limitations of our i/c.
i love it when people think out of the box...but save your money on this one.
What got me thinking to do this was my temps with cold weather.
Even if its 20 deg out once the car is fully warmed up i cant get them near 30-35 and they stay around 40-50 ish.this is from the heat of the stock setup transfering over.with the car cold i can have the temps within a few deg ambient and this is without engaging the blower.
Ill report back on how the temps are once the car is fully warmed up.
And a final thought - - - how are the stock factory cast pistons going to stand up to the power increases from the forthcoming EVO IC's? I know some of you serious racers already experienced failures. As you start to edge ever closer to that 200 BHP/litre figure you really need to begin to look at fairly exotic modifications to maintain good reliability.
I haven't bothered at all with any cooling mods to my car ( except the EC heat exchanger ) because I want to wait for people to come out with larger intercoolers before doing anything. I strongly believe this is the ONLY thing holding an E55 from going to 600whp on the same setup people are getting 520-530whp from.
FAR better flow, better cooling and a more aggressive tune. I see that SLR's are running over 20psi to get big numbers and their SC's are probably spinning near the same rpms as someone with a 190mm pulley. The difference is that their intercoolers probably don't drop boost nearly as much as ours do.
GTR are you saying my temps wont drop from splitting the system and running a bigger res wont help the temps out?
Then why do people split the cooling and run 10c fan mods and use lower T stats? getting that coolant colder getting into the blower has to help out somewhat no?
The only reason I am adding a bigger 7 series res and another smaller heatexchanger in the front is to add volume because of what Iv read about the spilt system not having as much coolant as the stock setup and it would hurt temps.
Loco told me and was right that my temps would go up when I setup the stock system to run the pump all the time.he told me in pm to split the system and the temps will drop big time with the pump running all the time.
I dont know what to say as some say its not worth it and others have proven track records of what they tried and know what works and what dosnt
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Did you ever find out how much a mold would really cost?I can set you up with my guy but I dont think you want to pay 7k to get a mold made lol.
Injection molding is NOT cheap
Then why do people split the cooling and run 10c fan mods and use lower T stats? getting that coolant colder getting into the blower has to help out somewhat no?
What got me thinking to do this was driving the car in temps under 15d out.The car was cold as hell and I watched the aits start to creep as the car would get warmer.With the car cold I say the aits in the low 20s and even hit 19 for a second driving around warming up the car.
I got on boost for a few seconds and the aits hit about 40-45 and then again and the highest I saw was about 75 on a full wot blast.Now after cruising for about 10 min with the pump on and it being cold out I could not get the temps under 37-38 and I pulled over and the blower was cold as ice.When the car was cold(coolant under 100)it would read lower and I think the stock setup is transfering heat over and keeping the temps from going under 37d.
I mean I drove it on the highway and maybe saw 35d for a split second and it stayed right around 37-38 mark.
Now if I split the cooling and my temps get closer to ambient(like 18-22) in the same low temps then that means the car is fighting itself to get under 40d intake air temps.
Did you ever find out how much a mold would really cost?I can set you up with my guy but I dont think you want to pay 7k to get a mold made lol.
Injection molding is NOT cheap
The mold was only $300 for the same process your talking about. They really do aim to please!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12x12-Water-...item3cbf4cb9a0
Les
Les
Thats a good thing haha
I drove the car hard and never saw over 180 on my engine coolant temps
The larger reservoir will not trigger the "coolant too cold" message. That was most likely due to your colder thermostat, and/or if you tripped the radiator fan at a low coolant temp. Keep up the good work.
Last edited by cij911; Feb 26, 2012 at 04:02 PM.
an oem one would looks nice and it could easily be done but Im not sure how much room you got for one.
you could put it where tbal put his but you would loose the cabin filter.
You are spot on... A wing was next.













But your cooling ideas =


