Well I bought my CLS almost a year ago and was happy with the power at the time, but we all know that you can never leave a car alone forever. I started researching options a few months ago and have hoarded a few parts for installation soon.

I took the car out for a baseline dyno and you can see the numbers



1st run sucked as the car downshifted to 3rd, 2nd run was the best and 3rd run the supercharger started heatsoaking. You can tell by the A/F ratio that the car is running super rich. Ok numbers I guess. I was hoping for more like 390 HP, but 378HP/439TQ is not bad.

Once again I just wanted to get a baseline for comparison.

So now onto parts. Kleeman Headers



Eurocharged Heat exchanger and Bosch 10 pump





Eurocharged 172 MM pulley





And finally some new air filters. I doubt this gives me anything, but at least I can clean them and re-use as necessary



Install should be in a few weeks and then another dyno run at the same place to see what I get. I am hoping for 80HP, but who knows.

 

nice goodies you got. Sure you cant wait to get it installed and see the results. Two weeks ago, got my 168mm renntech pulley installed. Yesterday my MBH headers. Waiting for EC HE and bosch pump install. But for now, car sure feels superfast and alot of growl/grunt. Once complete, then retune!

 

your oem pump is bad, that's why your numbers are so low and why your a/f ratio is so low. You can install your new pump and redyno the baseline but I don't know if you want to go through with it.

 

you think? I was datalogging IAT's with the Torque app and after the 3rd run on the dyno I got up to 168 degrees with ambient of 65 degrees. The numbers did seem a little low. I will just get it all done and see what I come up with.

 

As a rule of thumb, you should dyno your car in 3rd gear and not 4th. You will be substantially higher in 3rd gear, and the reasoning your a/f dumped into the 10 range is because of the 4th gear pull, super high IATS and the ECU was just dumping fuel to cool it back down.

4th gear pulls are also not advisable on a stock fuel system as the pull generates copious amounts of heats for a long period of time, and cylinder # 8 does not like that, just a word of caution.

Sick car btw, and shweet choice of upgrades brotha

 

why is your inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger on different sides?

 

168 is pretty high with a ambient temp of only 65*. With an ambient temp of 85+* I rarely see over 140* on the dyno even after beating on it.

Was the run done in 4th? If so, what chawkins says is true...on the stock setup a 4th gear run will kill IAT's and cause power to drop big time.

 

I asked the same question in the CLS forum. I have a CLS55.. not an E55

https://mbworld.org/forums/cls55-amg...exchanger.html

Do CLS55's have a different heat exchanger setup than an E55?

 

All good to know.. Looks like I will be redoing it in 3rd after the mods get done. Thanks for the info!

 

I agree with gtr your oem pump is prolly dead.

You are in for a big suprise when you get all the goodies installed.Power is going to jump 100+ whp but it will pull clean to 6k and make the car feel like a totally different beast.

no reason to redyno just add about 30-35whp when you do the after dyno with all the new mods to your base line.

 

may be the CLS have the inlet and out let on different side. once you remove your bumper you will know right away.

 

I tried looking through the bumper, but its too hard to tell. I will have to give eurocharged a call.

 

i'm also modding my CLS this year. bought the eurocharged ECU/TCU tune, Kleemann headers, TTM style fuel rail and injectors, 010 pump and considering a VRP175 pulley and maybe a 82mm TB. would the 175 be good for my setup? or do i need a larger pulley? i dont want the car to heatsoak like crazy, i was originally planning on going with a 168mm pulley, but with the addition of headers, i was told that a 168 pulley will only bring the boost back up to stock levels...

 

anyone? i would like to let the seller know if i want that 175

 

I personally wouldn't touch a VRP pulley. Get a 180 ASP welded pulley
I believe Craig Hawkins has one for sale.

 

I would go with a 172mm mang! Motorkas hit a 11.2 in the 1/4 with a 168mm which is maving the eff out.

I would say for reliability and proven performance, the 172mm is where it is at. You do know you can have any size made you want, right? If you want a 169mm; 170mm; 171mm, it can all be made, just send ASP your stock pulley, and have them weld on the ring size you want.

Oh yes, I do have a lightly used 180mm ASP welded pulley kit for sale, complete kit with around 2K miles on it if that. I think I have it advertised for $600 plus shipping for all the brothas

 

Mine as well buy chawkins pulley.. The ASP pulleys have a good design and hes selling it for cheap..

To the OP, your pump is deff ****ting the bed.. Should not be that high over ambient even after pull.

 

i read that the 180 has jerky engagement... my car is my DD and i definitely do not want to deal with that issue. i may also opt for the s/c pulley option when its finally released...