My current dose of LiquidMoly 5-40 is due to be drained....save me some time...what next?

Oil Solenoid removed....if I am not mistaken, the next was 10-40?

@CaliBenzDriver

 

I have been very happy with the castrol 5w50 so far. I’m in Md, have maybe 1000mi so far.

 

5-40 Mobil with a bottle of Mos2 all the time for me
been splendid. Never had oil burning issue.

 

Ol'man: you're on 5w40 wondering what oil upgrade to use. You're reportedly "lazy and want to save time"...

okay, ​​​​your upgrade choices may be :
15w40 ; 05w50 ; 10/15w50.

The last one is the target viscosity, priors are intermediate cleaning/adaptation steps.


Remember your stuck piston rings need to seal.... Oil alone does not seal rings when they are stuck by old oil carbon.

Personally I would not rush into feeding good viscosity.

I don't think the cylinder imbalance should damage your engine because you drive it around gently.

--> The VVT positioning will be confused at first but will zero in on target over 500Mi.

--> the shift points will be confused then improve to much better matches

>>meaning: driveability is going to get worse before it improves due to skipping over a giant viscosity step.

>> RIP CANCEL TIP:
Do clean or renew the oil filter CAP as its bypass valve is thought to act as a storage for contaminants and with effective viscosity may see more duty ie. greater chance to ingest stored junk from dirty cap.

15w50 lubricant will cancel the "extreme heatsoak" right away the very first Mile.
TT Powertrain ECU+TCU will improve every Mile thereafter while mis-adaptations keep self-tuning to perfection.


Pls report you test experience.

Clutch shift adaptations NOT impacted by viscosity only shift points are improved as the engine fuel map becomes much more predictable below 2000.Rpm.

You will soon be laughing at your journey to cancel ridiculous heat.


> WIN-WIN Cooling...
List in addition to known benefits:

• The radiator fan won't run in 80° weather
• The LED HL tiny fans will stop running nuts
• The front stuts oil won't soften with heat

Welcome to *normal* cooling!

 

How did switching the oil made you happy in "may be" 1000 miles ?

 

I have not seen one case in my lifetime, where laziness resulted in a PHD level degree like an MD, DDS, DC, DO, or other science based advanced degree in medicine. In your defense, I may be able to concede that laziness can be somewhat relative, like you were about to graduate med school at the top of your class, but got lazy and only graduated second in your class.

 

By "lazy" the Old Man didn't want to search or read thru the 100 pages of the Oil Solenoid Thread. I get it. Just give me the bottom line. I've been running 5W-40. What's next, Cali Wizzard?

 

If you’ve seen my other thread, I went through a process of discovering blowby likely due to stuck rings, then doing some flushes and cleaning, and then using the 5w50. I previously used Mobil one prior to sp rating and had lots of consumption, still within spec, and I longed for better consumption. I used liquimoly, then motul sp for the majority of its life. I had also done check valves, pcv, vacuum check valve. I am on a 3250mi oci. The changes lead to less consumption but after boroscoping the cylinders and seeing the oil in some I realized, with help from here, that overdosing of ceratec was causing deposits on the valves and likely rings due to the blow-by and I needed some cleaning action. The cleaning I did on on that other thread. My goal was to find an oil that had a higher temp shear point so that the 40w didn’t turn to 35w... in as little as 150 miles. The castrol 5w50 with the cleaning process has sounded quieter, lowered the heat of the oil a few degrees during hard driving and I do not see any smoke out of the exhaust, which is something I could see once in a while on a high speed shift. I formerly would have deposits on the rear of the wagon that I described as carbon flecking. I do not have that happening. The castrol has a higher shear percentage than new Mobil one formulations BUT the final weight is higher with the castrol. After all of this, my shifting improved and the lspi feels improved, even though I’ve used sp from motul since it was introduced. Cold starts sound as they did before and at temp the car is quieter at idle.

I’ve always chased a better oil where I would not feel the need to add moly or zinc and we see many of these newer formulations have exactly what we need and adding more will change the chemistry for the worse. Lake Speed Jr really explains all of these things very well. I added the charts from a recent video in that other thread so won’t add them here.

Personally I always wanted to move to 5w50 but needed to see my internals before making that move. Because I don’t drive it much, I figured my process would get it done more quickly than just waiting for oil changes to clean up my ceratec mistake.

So my happiness comes from having done a process and having a positive outcome so far. It’s not as though this is a strait weight oil, so startup is still protected.

 

Ol'Man appears to be contagious...
DARPA labs??

Let me link the answer.... here.

What's next are my two front side-radar modules... today!

 

that all very clear for ppl who understand the topic. They can connect the dots.

​​​​​Elsewhere I wrote it's normal to get factory experience from MB approved oil.

"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results" (Albert Einstein).

Personally I don't understand why ppl pull solenoid plug on 5w40???

What's amazing is listening to the engine start on 5w40 vs. 15w40 -- Guess which engine sounds better lubed dry at start time???

 

Thank you @CaliBenzDriver ordering this -

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/5w5...i-moly-lm20310

 

Ha! What did that crazy old coot know? Practice is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results!

 

You like better SN lubricants?
It's good, it will work.

proven old chemistry

I've upgraded over to cleaner API-SP chemistry to help counter LSPI pre-ignition.

 

MB Approved lubricants deliver standard results!

 

the Castrol upgrade oil
@Baltistyle
hand picked is an API-SP right?

this guarantees positive cleaning from less heavy ZDDP deposits that plug-up lambda/cats.

I think heads benefit from SP as well... that got my heads/HPFP smooth and quiet.

 

My mechanic said 5w-50 molygen isn’t good in the hot cali weather now I’m torn as well 🤒

 

>> If you sport turbos and like skipping ahead, final viscosity will be 15w50 in API-SP formulation. (Read post #4 about expectations).

>> Above that... a 20W50 may not see additional improvement as we are pumping near the 60PSI cap early on...
-- but if you track or run hot a lot, the 20w50 will shear down to a 5w50, so there it'll run perfect! It's like viscosity insurance.

Pls do Clean Your Bypass Valve for no Halloween engine RIP ​​​​​​


>> For non-turbo engines, I think a 5/10W50 will be final grade because after shearing resulting pressure will still cool at driving RPM.


> Preventing pre-ignition!
LSPI can destroy engines especially dirty old ones so it's best to use API-SP lubricant and give engine a chance to clean up old pistons.

 

Yes, I picked this because of the SP rating. There is also an SN+ rating that gets covered with SP. I figured since none of the heavier weight oils are 229.5 approved, I wanted to continue to use the correct API grade. I had been using SP grade 5w40 Motul since late 2020. The brand I found readily available locally was only the Castrol, at Napa. If I would have ordered, which I will next time, I would also try the Mobil One FS 5w50 (check the data sheet or bottle, its referred to as FS, or Supercar, but not the X2 or Euro) that is in the new bottles and is SP rated, Or Motul 8100 5w50 which is also SP rated. I choose a five weight because MD has all of the seasonal temperatures and I dont change my oil frequently enough to match up with the seasons. I may only change it every 7 months and at 3250 avg miles. Based on the charts from "oil guru" the new mobil one may be the most shear stable if it is formulated like the one on the chart. We know these ratings are about additive packs and change intervals of 10-20 thousand miles. While I would never go this many miles, it has been remarked by Lake Speed Junior that the oil can start to shear in as little as 150 miles. This is where the new additive packs are better than prior, also helping with LSPI which in our engines happens when it shifts up to fifth gear at 30, has super low rpms and you want to floor it. I try to stay out of that scenario by always driving with paddles but at least now I can believe the oil is also properly formulated for direct injection engines at a heavier weight.

 

EXACTLY!

You understand where everything stands to make best decisions.

By the time we are using similar viscosities we'll be able to compare oils across different brands for durability.

Solid stocks don't shear as much as light stocks loaded with viscosity modifiers.

Good oil is one that remains consistent at least up near 5000.Mi... after that viscosity often falls apart.

All candidates oils are good in the W50 SP grade:
-- Mobil1, Castrol, Motul, .... : available!
-- Penz/Valvo/LMol, ... : unknown?

 

-- Penz/Valvo/LMol, ... : unknown?

Ive not seen another easily available 50w oil that is SP rated.... other than the three I listed. YMMV