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Injecting meth...and other Q's

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Old 02-25-2012, 04:38 AM
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Injecting meth...and other Q's

Hi Guys,

I'm considering installing a meth kit for my E55 as a cheap method of keeping intake teps low rather than upgrading all of the cooling system. Question is, should I go dual nozzle and inject into the intake manifolds or single nozzle into the y-pipe next to the throttle body?

Admitedly I don't know much about this engine, but I'm assuming that if I go directly into the manifolds, the engine won't see the changes in intake temperature?

But on the other hand, if I were to inject in front of the TB I could end up with a situation where it might spray onto it while closed (if I suddenly let off from WOT) and the meth would pool up?


As a side note, whats the single best performance mod that you guys recommend for both power and reliability: headers, 82mm TB, crank pulley, sc pulley, tune....or?

Chers
Old 02-25-2012, 05:00 AM
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Things that are must on your meth kit:

- On / Off switch to control the whole system to be on or off.
- Check Valve (of course but just to stress on that)
- Solenoid (a must, because trust me the check valve may fail any time and then the water/meth will flow out of the nozzle even if the pump is off due to engine pressure, etc..)
- If you intend to use nozzle anywhere near throttle body, choose very small nozzle in my opinion less than 150 cc/min

That's what I remember for now.

Oh yeah, for your mods, you must get upgraded fuel injectors asap and would be good also to have looped fuel rail, search for pearlpower threads, he just did one recently.



Good luck.
Old 02-25-2012, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ahmad0658
Things that are must on your meth kit:

- On / Off switch to control the whole system to be on or off.
- Check Valve (of course but just to stress on that)
- Solenoid (a must, because trust me the check valve may fail any time and then the water/meth will flow out of the nozzle even if the pump is off due to engine pressure, etc..)
- If you intend to use nozzle anywhere near throttle body, choose very small nozzle in my opinion less than 150 cc/min

That's what I remember for now.

Oh yeah, for your mods, you must get upgraded fuel injectors asap and would be good also to have looped fuel rail, search for pearlpower threads, he just did one recently.



Good luck.
Thanks mate. I wasnt sure whether to go check valve or solenoid, so that's helped make my mind up

As for the fuel injectors, why do these need upgrading so soon? Are they already at near max duty? I've heard about the looped rail setup to avoid starvation on one of the cylinders (8?) but didn't know the injectors needed doing too.

EDIT: come to think about it, I would have thought that running meth would reduce the need for injectors/more fuel if anything (unless you were tuning with meth for more performance)? Please educate me if this isn't the case

Last edited by jimxms; 02-25-2012 at 05:13 AM.
Old 02-25-2012, 08:36 AM
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Injectors are for insurance and peace I mind basically but meth will help with that also. Meth basically is like running race fuel so the likely hood of detonation is slim but it's best to replace the injectors and not worry about it.
Old 02-25-2012, 11:40 AM
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Ahmad has got it right. One other thing you mentioned is that you put them in the manifolds. I wouldn't recommend that since the temp sensor is upstream of them right at the y of the supercharger IC. You can either place one small nozzle at the TB and one larger either ahead or after the super charger IC. There are a number of threads on it if you search for them. My setup is a #3 at the TB and a #7 after the IC but ahead of the temp sensor. I've had the best performance with this but others swear by putting the second larger nozzle ahead of the IC. I had trouble with pooling on the IC fins with this approach and therefore it seemed less effective. Using the system as described with the nozzle after the IC my IAT's have been 5-10 deg over ambient throughout a run with a 180mm pulley, 82mm tb, and headers. I do not have a rear tank but I do have a pump and HE. The only downside is that it brings your AFR down about .5 with a 50/50 mix. You can tune some of this out but the cooling effect seems to be well worth it. You can always use water alone as well and trade off a little cooling for AFR. If I was to do it all over again I'd buy the aquamist system and make it progressive off of injector duty cycle.

Shardul also posted a link to a DIY that is pretty well done. Search for that too.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by ahmad0658
Things that are must on your meth kit:

- On / Off switch to control the whole system to be on or off.
- Check Valve (of course but just to stress on that)
- Solenoid (a must, because trust me the check valve may fail any time and then the water/meth will flow out of the nozzle even if the pump is off due to engine pressure, etc..)
- If you intend to use nozzle anywhere near throttle body, choose very small nozzle in my opinion less than 150 cc/min

That's what I remember for now.

Oh yeah, for your mods, you must get upgraded fuel injectors asap and would be good also to have looped fuel rail, search for pearlpower threads, he just did one recently.



Good luck.
Old 02-25-2012, 12:08 PM
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^ agreed.
Old 02-25-2012, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by adianaty
Ahmad has got it right. One other thing you mentioned is that you put them in the manifolds. I wouldn't recommend that since the temp sensor is upstream of them right at the y of the supercharger IC. You can either place one small nozzle at the TB and one larger either ahead or after the super charger IC. There are a number of threads on it if you search for them. My setup is a #3 at the TB and a #7 after the IC but ahead of the temp sensor. I've had the best performance with this but others swear by putting the second larger nozzle ahead of the IC. I had trouble with pooling on the IC fins with this approach and therefore it seemed less effective. Using the system as described with the nozzle after the IC my IAT's have been 5-10 deg over ambient throughout a run with a 180mm pulley, 82mm tb, and headers. I do not have a rear tank but I do have a pump and HE. The only downside is that it brings your AFR down about .5 with a 50/50 mix. You can tune some of this out but the cooling effect seems to be well worth it. You can always use water alone as well and trade off a little cooling for AFR. If I was to do it all over again I'd buy the aquamist system and make it progressive off of injector duty cycle.

Shardul also posted a link to a DIY that is pretty well done. Search for that too.

Good luck!
Thanks for the great info mate. Am I right in saying that the optimal position you mention is only accessible if you pull the supercharger out?

Also is it right that none of the pipes coming off the charger have any positive boost going throught hem (for tapping into for a progressive setup)?

As mentioned I'm still finding my way around this engine at the mo
Old 02-25-2012, 03:40 PM
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There is only positive pressure essentially in the inter cooler below the supercharger and the surge tanks that are the aluminum pieces that say AMG on them. Most tap into the firewall side of the surge tanks below the black intake y-pipe to put in the pressure port. This is shown pretty well in the DIY I mentioned. Also since you do need to remove the supercharger in order to properly install the meth, it's also a good time to do a throttle body upgrade since the inlet to the SC will need to be replaced.

Originally Posted by jimxms
Thanks for the great info mate. Am I right in saying that the optimal position you mention is only accessible if you pull the supercharger out?

Also is it right that none of the pipes coming off the charger have any positive boost going throught hem (for tapping into for a progressive setup)?

As mentioned I'm still finding my way around this engine at the mo
Old 03-01-2012, 01:23 AM
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while on the subject, does anyone know where to get the injector duty cycle (what pin in the ECU box?)
Old 03-01-2012, 01:55 AM
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Pretty sure the injector is Socket 3, pin 27, grey-black wire. Make sure you use the matching ground if you are going to connect anything to it or expect erroneous numbers. I believe it's the ECU ground and it's brown. I'm pretty sure IDC is a calculated parameter so you can only pick up the raw signal going to the injector.
Old 03-01-2012, 08:07 AM
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You're right on the erroneous numbers

Originally Posted by adianaty
Pretty sure the injector is Socket 3, pin 27, grey-black wire. Make sure you use the matching ground if you are going to connect anything to it or expect erroneous numbers. I believe it's the ECU ground and it's brown. I'm pretty sure IDC is a calculated parameter so you can only pick up the raw signal going to the injector.
I see 5 volts coming out constantly when the ignition is on. What is the ground pin for the ecu box btw?

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