Now that I've driven the E55 for a few weeks, I can see why even the 275 Michelins have trouble holding the road, so when I go for new tires - most likely 275 or 285 on the stockers - or if I'm feeling spendy, some new wheels...

I've done some searches, and found a TON of offset threads, and 'look at my wheels' threads, but hard to find definitive posts on technical details about what wheels will fit, other than just using what everyone else is rolling on...

found a tool called Wheelrite and I'm sure there are other ways to measure, but has anyone done a custom wheel fitment and measured the wheel wells to see what the maximum will fit?

sure there are tons of variables, offset, wheel width, tire aspect, tire width, etc...

I'm not into 'poke' or 'stretched' tires, but would like to stuff as much tire under the car as possible while the offset keeps the wheels/tires flush with the fenders.

if I'd do wheels, most likely a 19"
front 19x8.5 32mm to 36mm offset with and backspace around 5.75"
rear 19x9.5 35mm to 40mm offset with and backspace between 6.6” to 7” - but would a 10" or 10.5" wheel fit?

as far as lowering, I 'may' go down an inch from stock, but not much more - its' a DD so I hate curbs, and parking blocks - and they hate me too!

 

 

I've seen people post using 10 and 10.5 inch width wheels in the rear. I too am not quite sure just how big we can go in the rears, but it sounds like 10 and 10.5 are the safe bets.

I am still reviewing what others have done to get an idea of what route I want to take. So far, I still thinking the Vossen CV3s are the ones I like the best.

 

I know justinwrock has those huge 10.5" DPEs on the back, and slammed pretty good too

but I'm assuming with less drop - maybe a wider tire? 305 or 315?

I too love the Vossens - just clean looking

 

I know "Moosejaw" and "altrac" are running HRE 20x11 rears. Both are lowered and have NO rubbing issues.

 

wow moose and altrac - what are your wheel specs?

 

I could be mistaken but I think I remember reading something by skratch about test getting custom forgestars built and he had some very useful info if I recall.

 

With a 8.5 front rim you can go as low at et20 without any modifications to the fender. Since you don't plan on slamming the car as many of us have, you can get away with a lot more variations of wheel/tire combos. I was running a 19x11 et33 with a 285 tire in back and slammed and it took some good fendPer rolling to avoid rubbing. Since you want to fit as much tire as possible, I'd go with a 10" rear wheels and 295's

 

Still thinking about going with all seasons?

 

 

 

im running 20x11 in the rear

 

20x11 rear = stretch tire 255-265/30

20x10.5 run a 295/25

20x10 run a 285/25

 

Lolz, I put all seasons on my ride at first (Toyo Proxes 4) thinking I would drive it all year round. Of course I couldn't bear it, so I buy beaters for the winter and the 55 sits in the climate controlled hibernation chamber Anyway, the Toyos just couldn't handle it of course. In first and second gear and sometimes into third even at part throttle I would be sideways. Then I started modding. Then came 50-65 MPH burnouts on all seasons Long story short Toad, go for something aggressive. I run MT ET Street DRs all summer now and love them, especially if someone steps up and wants a spirited run All seasons on one of these things, even stock is going to be slippy. Plus when your cars hooks...if you think it's quick now wait until you feel that push of torque when it isn't spinning all it's power away.
Hope that helps.

 

Update your Sig

 

Toadster, talk to a Michelin specialist regarding tyre width & compound. Wider is not always better. It's the ratio of weight over contact patch that matters & which axle. Please never stretch tyres.

Plus real handling vs. cosmetics are in conflict with one another. Pleased you don't intend too much drop.

 

yup - appreciate the comments

I am not really a fan of stretched tires, just never caught onto that thing... the Michelin PSS have a nicely size contact patch and tread width, the Conti DWS's are pretty similar, but as most say - they'll just roast...

although, I'm still tempted

 

Just understand that for a given compound if the contact patch is too large for the weight exerted that grip starts going backwards.

 

Another bit of advice. Don't drop the rear of the car too low as so many do on these forums. For the vehicle aerodynamics to work as designed at high speed with limited air under the car they require to be set up nose down, butt up!

 

I dont know what specs are on my HREs as they keep offset a secret and only reveal that info to the original owner. I bought my E55 as is. The original owner spent upwards of $7K on the wheel/tire combo on my E.

 

Lol I need to badly added many many many things lol...

 

forget the warrenty on the dws contis. fine print says ANY negative camber voids the warrenty. even if the car comes oem with neg camber!!