JuanMR

Hello, I am new to MBWorld and I just bought a 2003 E55. when i bought the car, it seemed to be quick, but not for 468HP and 516TQ. I hve ben searching and reading through several threads here and noticed that these cars have some issues. long story short, I changed the water pump that is in the right side of the engine, behind the passenger headlamp between the ABS Control System with a CM30. is that the pump that gos bad and needs to be changed or is it the one that is under the radiator support that right next to the H/E? My car used to run at 100c on the temp meter, after changing the pump it stays between 80 and 100 but still goes up to 100c. Is this normal? Any help would be more than appreciated.

gaspam

that is the correct pump to be changed for supercharger shutoff problems... its the intercooler pump... and between 80 to 100c is normal with 100c being on the higher side

CharlyE500

Some people say 06 has upgraded Borsch IC pump which not true. I did few pulls, third time my car runs like 200hp or less. So changed to CM30 4 months ago car pulls strong every time. This week the temperature will be very hot in SoCal so will try few pulls to see if CM30 really works.

nicco

Should have done split cooling while you where at it

Exotic-metal55

Might as well buy a data logger and start checking IAT`s , so you know for sure if you have a cooling issue.

nicco

Wire that pump to run continuous

JuanMR

So the other pump by the I/C does not need to be replaced?

What do you mean by "split cooling"?

What is a "data logger" and where can I get one?

hbr

LOL

emoving

LOL

JuanMR

It cant be that funny!

what is a safe place to hook up the pump for continuous operation?

desired_speeds

There is a wire in the electronics box located in the drivers side rear of the engine compartment that is wired to ignition. Search it up, there is a picture of it somewhere on here.

JuanMR

Thank you. How is the split cooling done? what hoses do i connect, plug...etc?

Helli217

PLEASE...do yourself a huge favor and search. You are going to get destroyed for asking these questions, as they had been discussed to the retard degree here.

Datalogger, IC Pump, IC pump Bleeding (or coolant bleed), Split cooling

Search those term separately. Read. Learn.

Then, Look up Fabtech if you want a plug and play split cooling setup. Nice 5 gallon trunk tank or the upcoming underhood tank setup they are producing. Also search Killer Chiller.

Searching these terms and products should answer all of these questions-Asking them without searching them is going to get you less than descriptive answers and alot of flaming. Good luck.

BTW-if you didnt bleed the coolant after you changed that pump it can perform just as bad as an inoperative pump, and can actually kill your new pump.

JuanMR

Thank you for your reply. I have actually searched all those descriptions all over the forums and other places. Some of them are not that detailed or supply enough info though. I have already read several threads concerning my quetsons.

One thing i noticed today was a clacking noise coming from the left side of the engine (driver view). I am worried about this. It might be a rod bearing or a lifter, or so I think. I have not been able to find any info or other owners experiance's with this issue. Are these cars known for bad lifters or rod bearings failing? My car has quite a bit of miles too, its sitting at 103k. Any feedback?

Helli217

I have a noise from left side of engine too, but after inspection have determined it's an exhaust leak. Being I am going TTM headers fairly soon I haven't bothered to address it. The M113k isn't "known" for lifter problems but like any other car they can have them. Some people have had noises, replaced lifters, only to find out the noise was from other parts, exhaust leaks at manifold flange, etc.

When you cold start the car is there loud racket from your suspect area until it gets oil press then calms down a bit?

Get under the car while it's idling and see if it's louder underneath. if so inspect exhaust for leaks.

How about the screwdriver test? (or mech stethescope) It works.

Also does it increase in frequency when you blip throttle or disappear altogether?

Also, eturning to your original question about power-Did you bleed the coolant after IC pump thoroughly? Idk-my car went like stink even when totally stock. Like 469 hp should.

MindBend

I just did my IC pump. There's a bleeder on the top of the motor right about the pulleys. Hook some 12v power to the pump, let it run and run a hose to a jug until air stops coming out. Add more to the reservoir and you'll get most all of the air out. It's fast and easy.
If you split your I/C coolant system from the main one, it will take more time/diligence to get the air out, but it's the same theory.
My car is back to running like a banshee again! ;-)

JuanMR

I noticed today when I started the car in the morning that it was not making the clacking noise. But the hood was closed. When I first noticed the noise, if i reved the engine to about 1500 the noise got louder and faster clacking, then at about 2000 rpm it would go away.

Is running a 12v to the pump a must or can I run a hose to the resorvoir whith the car in idle?

MindBend

The pump does not run at idle. Eventually the air will work itself out, but you can expedite the process by running the pump. It's super-easy: run a wire from battery to pump, let'er run a bit, bleed from factory spot, done.

JuanMR

Ok. Will do that after work. Thank you.

Now, how can I be sure if the s/c clutch is bad? I removed the plastic shield thing from under the hood to hear the "whine" and nothing. Which i assume the s/c is not engaging or not as strong. The car just doesnt feel like it has 468.

MindBend

Is it low on power all the time or just after a run or two?

JuanMR

Well, its on and off. When the engine is cold it pulls but after driving for a while it doesnt. Lets say i drive a few miles and i floor it, the transmission doesnt even reduce like it should and the car doesnt really pull. But some times it does. When it does, it still doesnt pull like i think it should. Few things tho i have noticed, the sc pulley has grease spread out of it in the front and at idle the clutch isnt spinning, if i rev the engine then it starts to turn slowly. Idk if thats normal. I have youtubed these engines and in their bideos it turns at idle.

JuanMR

Lets say all is good, clutch engages strong, temps are where they should be. What should it feel like when you make a run?

MindBend

I am certainly no expert as I just got mine as well, but mine did the same thing. The ECU shuts down the SC when the IC gets too hot. You may have SC troubles too--don't know. However, the pump is MUCH more likely and regardless, you'll do yourself a favor to replace it. ;-)

MindBend

IT should pull like a friggin banshee! Last night I ran my friend is in his SRT8 Jeep. He laughed so hard and just said, "That thing is just STUPID". It's quite amazing, actually.

JuanMR

Well, when i got the car, it used to run at 100c all the time. After i changed the pump, it runs one or two lines above 80c. So its deff running cooler now. Does that mean that the i/c should be cooler too?

Before i changed the pump, i ran a 2010 Audi S4. And it SPANKED me. Thats when i realized that their had to be issues with my car. Should that car beat us? I doubt it.