How is your A/C?
#27
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How much was the new blower ? mine is making chirping sound and really annoying for years......
#28
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2011 Ford Raptor, 2003 FX35, 2008 E63 AMG (Gone but not forgotten)
I got my 08 in 2010. Took it to the local MB shop complaining it didn't blow cold enough. My wife's 03 FX35 blows so cold you have to put a jacket on. Seriously it can freeze you if you're right in front of the vent when you first start it up and it tries to cool a hot car.
MB said they checked the pressure and output temp and they were fine. They drained and refilled to be certain and it was within specs. I don't know how you Southern guys can deal with it, let alone our comrades in the Middle East.
MB said they checked the pressure and output temp and they were fine. They drained and refilled to be certain and it was within specs. I don't know how you Southern guys can deal with it, let alone our comrades in the Middle East.
#30
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2014 E63s amg 4matic, 2009 C63, 2006 E55 AMG , 2001.5 AUDI S4 stg 3+ w/meth
mine is fine as long as the temps dont go above 90, but not that we are getting 100+ days here mine takes at least 5 min to get the car somewhat comfortable and then still feels a little weak on the temp side... fan output is fine though
#31
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
South Florida, 85* oat, A/C discharge temp 36* with cabin temp sent to 72*
10* fan mod will improve A/C performance.
You can put gauges on but they will not give you any information to diagnos the A/C system state of charge, because the compressor is variable displacement.
So if your car won't give you at least 42* A/C discharge temp, you have a problem. The self diagnostics in the E class A/C system is outstanding.
Get your values and codes cause a gague set is worthless.
10* fan mod will improve A/C performance.
You can put gauges on but they will not give you any information to diagnos the A/C system state of charge, because the compressor is variable displacement.
So if your car won't give you at least 42* A/C discharge temp, you have a problem. The self diagnostics in the E class A/C system is outstanding.
Get your values and codes cause a gague set is worthless.
Last edited by Yacht Master; 06-03-2012 at 09:23 AM.
#33
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The settings i believe that were mentioned earlier are in CGW there is a setting that needs be be set to HOT countries.
Also turn refrigerant level check to inactive. The second will not improve the cooling, but is the correct setting.
Not sure about this developer mode, as we at the dealer do not need to use it...maybe its a old STAR thing?
Anyhow, my a/c kicks just fine in FL heat.
Also turn refrigerant level check to inactive. The second will not improve the cooling, but is the correct setting.
Not sure about this developer mode, as we at the dealer do not need to use it...maybe its a old STAR thing?
Anyhow, my a/c kicks just fine in FL heat.
#34
Member
man it just wont blow cold air and it smells funky..kinda chemical smell. and as soon as i turn the ac on the cooling fan kicks in and blows like a **** non stop what can we check or service without star? my local import shops wants 100 bucks just to look at my rig.
#35
Member
oh and another thing i see none of the usuall dripping under the car when running the ac like you do on most cars is that normal has anyone ever had anyone but a place with star look at their ac before im considering having the refig coolant checked to see if its just low
#36
Member
just took out the climate controls and i notice that i get a better flow of air from the driver side vents than the pass side. and when i try to use the controls to change where the air goes nothing happens..lame
#37
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E55 then E63, now back to an E55
yeah the 3 E-class AMG's I have owned A/C has all been GREAT.
But then again I'm also quite used to driving F-cars and Astons, etc - so maybe my standards have been lowered lol.
But then again I'm also quite used to driving F-cars and Astons, etc - so maybe my standards have been lowered lol.
#38
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oh and another thing i see none of the usuall dripping under the car when running the ac like you do on most cars is that normal has anyone ever had anyone but a place with star look at their ac before im considering having the refig coolant checked to see if its just low
#43
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Benz has a setting built in where if your car has erratic idle, the compressor will shut down. Many of us are modded and even stockers have had their ac shut down at idle. Developer mode, you can shut off that feature which helped me a TON!! It's DEEP in there and you need a code on top of developer.
Also like they said above you can change a few features. The dumb "black bump" in front of your windshield can be turned off. (some dumb idea with benz that if you are getting sun on the passenger side, it gives them more cooling. Never works)\
If you uneven on pass/driver side it's classic low R134 on a Benz. Could be a vent door but most of the time it's 134.
Biggest help for me was the ability to change the "real temp" meaning when you set the AC to 70, you can tell the car to actually go 10 under. so 70 means 60 in reality. 10 was too much for me but 5 helped a lot!!!
Lots of these older cars getting low on juice so a good can of straight R134 WITH NO AUTO SEAL could do you some good. Try half a can and see if it improves.
After years of tinkering, I finally got mine working. I am also highly moded with killer chiller so mine was hard to dial in
Also like they said above you can change a few features. The dumb "black bump" in front of your windshield can be turned off. (some dumb idea with benz that if you are getting sun on the passenger side, it gives them more cooling. Never works)\
If you uneven on pass/driver side it's classic low R134 on a Benz. Could be a vent door but most of the time it's 134.
Biggest help for me was the ability to change the "real temp" meaning when you set the AC to 70, you can tell the car to actually go 10 under. so 70 means 60 in reality. 10 was too much for me but 5 helped a lot!!!
Lots of these older cars getting low on juice so a good can of straight R134 WITH NO AUTO SEAL could do you some good. Try half a can and see if it improves.
After years of tinkering, I finally got mine working. I am also highly moded with killer chiller so mine was hard to dial in
#45
MBWorld Fanatic!
You might want to change your cabin air filter if smell funny.
#46
MBWorld Fanatic!
would be interesting to test under-hood temps pre-10c and post -10c mod
#47
MBWorld Fanatic!
well yes, I have the -10C mod - and it cools the engine more aggressively which 'could' attribute to easier cooling since the piping in the engine bay could be a wee bit cooler - so the compressor wouldn't have to extract as much heat...
would be interesting to test under-hood temps pre-10c and post -10c mod
would be interesting to test under-hood temps pre-10c and post -10c mod
#48
Member
sucked up a whole small can in like a min or less seems a bit colder. ill get a hose with a aguge and see where its at in the am
Last edited by hooligan; 06-03-2012 at 12:33 AM.
#49
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
Gagues are worthless when used to determine charge, the W211 has a variable displacement compressor and it only works correctly with an exact charge. Most of you that have cooling problems have under charged or overcharged the system.
You absolutely can not add R134a and expect your system to work better. The only way to charge the system is to do it by weight, that means recover what is in your system and recharge with exact weight of R134a.
To further add to your problems most over the counter DIY cans of R134a have some kind of sealer and or oil both are bad news unless you plan to sell the car.
Oh and if you have a smell change all the cabin filters (pollen and charcoal) and check your condensate drains, if you still have an odor there are spray disinfectants to clean your evaporator.
And for the last time the 10* fan mod will help the A/C work better. More air over/through the condenser improves heat transfer. The fan is controlled by both engine temp and A/C temp-pressure.
Last edited by Yacht Master; 06-03-2012 at 09:35 AM.
#50
Member
ok i used 134 with no seals or oils it was straight 134. i understand the concept of replacing to the correct weight but if most systems can loose a few ounces a yr then the ..put in what you take out wont work...can you direct me to the condenser drains? the higher i turn the ac up the higher my engine fan runs. but i just dont believe it should work that hard at a constant rate which leads me to believe its low on coolant.
thanks for your input as well, and sorry that ive somehow highjacked this thread but i think we are all getting some good info
thanks for your input as well, and sorry that ive somehow highjacked this thread but i think we are all getting some good info