How is your A/C?




How much was the new blower ? mine is making chirping sound and really annoying for years......
MB said they checked the pressure and output temp and they were fine. They drained and refilled to be certain and it was within specs. I don't know how you Southern guys can deal with it, let alone our comrades in the Middle East.
10* fan mod will improve A/C performance.
You can put gauges on but they will not give you any information to diagnos the A/C system state of charge, because the compressor is variable displacement.
So if your car won't give you at least 42* A/C discharge temp, you have a problem. The self diagnostics in the E class A/C system is outstanding.
Get your values and codes cause a gague set is worthless.
Last edited by Yacht Master; Jun 3, 2012 at 09:23 AM.
Also turn refrigerant level check to inactive. The second will not improve the cooling, but is the correct setting.
Not sure about this developer mode, as we at the dealer do not need to use it...maybe its a old STAR thing?
Anyhow, my a/c kicks just fine in FL heat.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
But then again I'm also quite used to driving F-cars and Astons, etc - so maybe my standards have been lowered lol.
Also like they said above you can change a few features. The dumb "black bump" in front of your windshield can be turned off. (some dumb idea with benz that if you are getting sun on the passenger side, it gives them more cooling. Never works)\
If you uneven on pass/driver side it's classic low R134 on a Benz. Could be a vent door but most of the time it's 134.
Biggest help for me was the ability to change the "real temp" meaning when you set the AC to 70, you can tell the car to actually go 10 under. so 70 means 60 in reality. 10 was too much for me but 5 helped a lot!!!
Lots of these older cars getting low on juice so a good can of straight R134 WITH NO AUTO SEAL could do you some good. Try half a can and see if it improves.
After years of tinkering, I finally got mine working. I am also highly moded with killer chiller so mine was hard to dial in




would be interesting to test under-hood temps pre-10c and post -10c mod
would be interesting to test under-hood temps pre-10c and post -10c mod

Gagues are worthless when used to determine charge, the W211 has a variable displacement compressor and it only works correctly with an exact charge. Most of you that have cooling problems have under charged or overcharged the system.
You absolutely can not add R134a and expect your system to work better. The only way to charge the system is to do it by weight, that means recover what is in your system and recharge with exact weight of R134a.
To further add to your problems most over the counter DIY cans of R134a have some kind of sealer and or oil both are bad news unless you plan to sell the car.
Oh and if you have a smell change all the cabin filters (pollen and charcoal) and check your condensate drains, if you still have an odor there are spray disinfectants to clean your evaporator.
And for the last time the 10* fan mod will help the A/C work better. More air over/through the condenser improves heat transfer. The fan is controlled by both engine temp and A/C temp-pressure.
Last edited by Yacht Master; Jun 3, 2012 at 09:35 AM.
thanks for your input as well, and sorry that ive somehow highjacked this thread but i think we are all getting some good info






