Lowering FTW!
#1
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Lowering FTW!
So went to re-do my calipers and took off my wheels and found this! All 4 tires with same problem....Thank god I had another set of brand new pirelli tires laying around. Def. ordering toe links and camber arms. Anyone have suggestions on which ones are good?
![](http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/djrabbi/IMAG0742.jpg)
![](http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/djrabbi/IMAG0741.jpg)
![](http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/djrabbi/IMAG0742.jpg)
![](http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/djrabbi/IMAG0741.jpg)
![](http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/djrabbi/IMAG0743.jpg)
#2
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looking low comes with a price of tires!!! Thats why i dont want my w211s as low as i used to have my honda/vw. One finger gap is good enough for me on my w211s.
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#4
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http://www.ptuning.com/html/services.cfm in manassas
Funktion auto in Sterling, but more expensive
mercedes of chantilly.
Funktion auto in Sterling, but more expensive
mercedes of chantilly.
#5
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When you slam the car, not only are your alignment settings screwed up (which you know and can be addressed with the parts you are asking about), but equally important, you are ruining the handling of the car by significantly reducing the suspension travel. Lowering the car a little bit is probably ok, but anything severe like I see on these boards is no good.
In terms of parts : KMAC and MB Arts seem to be the two leading contenders....I like KMAC.
In terms of parts : KMAC and MB Arts seem to be the two leading contenders....I like KMAC.
Last edited by cij911; 08-27-2012 at 09:39 AM.
#7
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
[QUOTE=djrabbi;5335705]So went to re-do my calipers and took off my wheels and found this! All 4 tires with same problem....Thank god I had another set of brand new pirelli tires laying around. Def. ordering toe links and camber arms. Anyone have suggestions on which ones are good?
Evo and KMAC are possible choices. If you lower the car, you must have the geometry reset properly.
Evo and KMAC are possible choices. If you lower the car, you must have the geometry reset properly.
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05 E55, 07 ML500
Had the same thing happen with the stock Conti's, blew out front left on the freeway.. Took the car to Discount Tire and found the others that were about to go as well, long story short, I *****ed and they sent them back to Conti as defective and replaced all for free with PS2's..
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#14
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Good info guys. I am getting my wheels balanced today since the places that mounted the tires apparently didn't so my wheels shake a bit after 60MPH. I will get alignment at one of the places you guys mentioned maybe next week and get dyno done too ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I was pretty low (too me atleast) I will be leaving 1 finger gap all around, think I would need new camber arms and links or OEM with alignment should be fine?
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I was pretty low (too me atleast) I will be leaving 1 finger gap all around, think I would need new camber arms and links or OEM with alignment should be fine?
#15
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I checked my alignment today (I am not very low at all) :
Camber was ~-2* Front & Rear
Toe was 0.08 Left & Right ; Rear was ~0.2 left & right (IIRC) - rear was out of spec
So I could definitely benefit from a KMAC setup front & rear as I could adjust camber and toe (in rear)...I think -1* camber is about as much as one needs for a street car and I am guessing that the extra 1.5 degrees + toe in the rear is really eating up tires.
Camber was ~-2* Front & Rear
Toe was 0.08 Left & Right ; Rear was ~0.2 left & right (IIRC) - rear was out of spec
So I could definitely benefit from a KMAC setup front & rear as I could adjust camber and toe (in rear)...I think -1* camber is about as much as one needs for a street car and I am guessing that the extra 1.5 degrees + toe in the rear is really eating up tires.
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I would love to see a thread like this (excessive tire wear complaint) where the OP goes to an alignment shop and gets the "before" numbers recorded by the alignment shop (the ones that ate the tires!) and then an "after" alignment report showing how the car ended up after adding toe links, camber arms, alignment, etc.
That would be a huge help if anyone feels like doing it.
-G
That would be a huge help if anyone feels like doing it.
-G
#18
I have the K-Mac bushing AND MB Arts toe links to be able to maintain proper alignment geometry while (slightly) STAR lowered.
The K Mac bushing alone will give you front Camber and Toe control, as well as rear Camber control, unfortunately our car are too powerful and the rear Toe bushing can't hold the torque applied to it under hard acceleration and will come undone, which is NOT a good thing, trust me! That's why I had to use stock 'toe' busing and the MB art rear toe links, now the wheel stay in place and alignment is in spec and stays that way.
A less expensive option might be to use Mercedes adjustable bolts, but the range of settings is very limited.
The K Mac bushing alone will give you front Camber and Toe control, as well as rear Camber control, unfortunately our car are too powerful and the rear Toe bushing can't hold the torque applied to it under hard acceleration and will come undone, which is NOT a good thing, trust me! That's why I had to use stock 'toe' busing and the MB art rear toe links, now the wheel stay in place and alignment is in spec and stays that way.
A less expensive option might be to use Mercedes adjustable bolts, but the range of settings is very limited.
Last edited by timeToy; 08-27-2012 at 07:15 PM.
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2004 E55 (sold) 2012 E350 4M
I have the K-Mac bushing AND MB Arts toe links to be able to maintain proper alignment geometry while (slightly) STAR lowered.
The K Mac bushing alone will give you front Camber and Toe control, as well as rear Camber control, unfortunately our car are too powerful and the rear Toe bushing can't hold the torque applied to it under hard acceleration and will come undone, which is NOT a good thing, trust me! That's why I had to use stock 'toe' busing and the MB art rear toe links, now the wheel stay in place and alignment is in spec and stays that way.
A less expensive option might be to use Mercedes adjustable bolts, but the range of settings is very limited.
The K Mac bushing alone will give you front Camber and Toe control, as well as rear Camber control, unfortunately our car are too powerful and the rear Toe bushing can't hold the torque applied to it under hard acceleration and will come undone, which is NOT a good thing, trust me! That's why I had to use stock 'toe' busing and the MB art rear toe links, now the wheel stay in place and alignment is in spec and stays that way.
A less expensive option might be to use Mercedes adjustable bolts, but the range of settings is very limited.
Last edited by rchase; 08-27-2012 at 07:31 PM.
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-G
#21
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The K Mac bushing alone will give you front Camber and Toe control, as well as rear Camber control, unfortunately our car are too powerful and the rear Toe bushing can't hold the torque applied to it under hard acceleration and will come undone, which is NOT a good thing, trust me! That's why I had to use stock 'toe' busing and the MB art rear toe links, now the wheel stay in place and alignment is in spec and stays that way.
#22
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#23
My installer (ACG in San Diego) was able to dial in the exact amount of drop I wanted (to a point, front wheels independently and rear axle), I think theses values are for example.
#24
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I am the service manager at Lustine Toyota in Woodbridge if you want to get one done. I have a dedicated alignment tech that does my car every 90 days and I have great tire wear, but also do not have a ELM installed. I can do an alignment for any of my fellow E55 owners for $60. Just let me know!
#25
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To OP,
I read awhile back (because I had the same problem with my rear tires) that depending on which mode (C/S/M) you drive in can affect tread wear immensely. It was said (not sure by who) that different drive modes change the toe/camber settings. Can anyone validate this??![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
DG
I read awhile back (because I had the same problem with my rear tires) that depending on which mode (C/S/M) you drive in can affect tread wear immensely. It was said (not sure by who) that different drive modes change the toe/camber settings. Can anyone validate this??
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
DG