W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

E55 air intakes

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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #1  
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E55 amg
E55 air intakes

Hi I'm new to the forum and have been reading a lot about changing my air intakes but I'm not sure which one to get or make a DIY one? From what Iv been reading I was going to buy the needswing kit but I'm after as much help and opinions as possible please and pictures of yor kits.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 06:53 PM
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My recommendation if your going to spend a grand on the needswing kit, would be to change to K&N filters and then do a larger (82mm) throttle body.. You would spend just as much money and you should gain more power this way.. If your looking for more, get carbon fiber intake tubes or Fab-tech has intake tubes for pretty cheap as well..
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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Needswings doesn't support the 82mm TB yet, if I'm not mistaken
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 09:36 PM
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I was mistaken, they make it for the 82 now...
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 10:41 PM
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K&N or Green filters with the FTP alum tubes or Carbon Creations CF tubes, save the extra cash for tune or other parts.
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 11:51 PM
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Get some TTM Scoops, Python tubes, and some K&N Drop-ins. Save your money for Pulley-Tune before you goto the 82mm TB.

my .02
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 12:17 AM
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save ur money on ttm scoops too.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 02:16 AM
  #8  
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I have the Needswings CAI for an 82mm TB fitted, it is a tight squeeze but does fit although I had to cut the Y pipe down to fit. Will also be fitting python tubes of some description and TTM scoops in the next couple of weeks.
I previously had standard intake with BMC filters and with my mods had a 0.1 bar pressure drop measured after the TB, will get it back on the dyno in the next couple of weeks so will publish results.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 03:19 AM
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Thanks everyone for all the info and help. Not sure what to do now the 82mm throttle body has been metioned? Is the 82 body just a straight swap and can it b ported out to help with air flow? Mite go with 82body and kn filters with some kind of tubing.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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For moding, here's the approach/sequence I took to get the most bang for the buck first and save the most expensive mod for the last thing.

K&N's > IC Pump > EC Tune Stage 1 > H/E > 180M Pulley > EC Tune Stage 2 > Upgraded brakepads and rotors > LTH > EC tune Stage 3.

What I have left to do is the fuel rail, injectors, new plugs, TB and TQ converter & Shardu's cool pulley kit.

I'm not saying you have to take this approach, but I did the cheapest mods first seeking the most HP gain, while doing cooling and break upgrades as the car got faster. I absolutely have to do the rail and injectors next so I keep the car healthy. Once you have over 500HP at crank on these cars, rails and injectors are key or you risk the entire motor. I don't think a single person on this board would disagree with that statement.

Hope this helps!

Alex
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 10:52 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by alextaylor29
For moding, here's the approach/sequence I took to get the most bang for the buck first and save the most expensive mod for the last thing.

K&N's > IC Pump > EC Tune Stage 1 > H/E > 180M Pulley > EC Tune Stage 2 > Upgraded brakepads and rotors > LTH > EC tune Stage 3.

What I have left to do is the fuel rail, injectors, new plugs, TB and TQ converter & Shardu's cool pulley kit.

I'm not saying you have to take this approach, but I did the cheapest mods first seeking the most HP gain, while doing cooling and break upgrades as the car got faster. I absolutely have to do the rail and injectors next so I keep the car healthy. Once you have over 500HP at crank on these cars, rails and injectors are key or you risk the entire motor. I don't think a single person on this board would disagree with that statement.

Hope this helps!

Alex
I agree with your mod sequence and its basically the route im going, but did you mean RWHP and not crank for the fueling? I know they need to be upgraded but I didnt think it was that serious of a condition that needs to be addressed after just a tune.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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All this stage 1-2-3 is hogwash, it's a marketing tool to sell more mods

Many have more mods than a pulley and tune and yet don't go around saying stage 4 -5-6
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by alextaylor29
For moding, here's the approach/sequence I took to get the most bang for the buck first and save the most expensive mod for the last thing.

K&N's > IC Pump > EC Tune Stage 1 > H/E > 180M Pulley > EC Tune Stage 2 > Upgraded brakepads and rotors > LTH > EC tune Stage 3.

What I have left to do is the fuel rail, injectors, new plugs, TB and TQ converter & Shardu's cool pulley kit.

I'm not saying you have to take this approach, but I did the cheapest mods first seeking the most HP gain, while doing cooling and break upgrades as the car got faster. I absolutely have to do the rail and injectors next so I keep the car healthy. Once you have over 500HP at crank on these cars, rails and injectors are key or you risk the entire motor. I don't think a single person on this board would disagree with that statement.

Hope this helps!

Alex
I hope you meant over 500 at the wheels..
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
All this stage 1-2-3 is hogwash, it's a marketing tool to sell more mods

Many have more mods than a pulley and tune and yet don't go around saying stage 4 -5-6
oh great - now look what you started!
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Hulk
All this stage 1-2-3 is hogwash, it's a marketing tool to sell more mods

Many have more mods than a pulley and tune and yet don't go around saying stage 4 -5-6
Good for them
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by alextaylor29
For moding, here's the approach/sequence I took to get the most bang for the buck first and save the most expensive mod for the last thing.

K&N's > IC Pump > EC Tune Stage 1 > H/E > 180M Pulley > EC Tune Stage 2 > Upgraded brakepads and rotors > LTH > EC tune Stage 3.

What I have left to do is the fuel rail, injectors, new plugs, TB and TQ converter & Shardu's cool pulley kit.

I'm not saying you have to take this approach, but I did the cheapest mods first seeking the most HP gain, while doing cooling and break upgrades as the car got faster. I absolutely have to do the rail and injectors next so I keep the car healthy. Once you have over 500HP at crank on these cars, rails and injectors are key or you risk the entire motor. I don't think a single person on this board would disagree with that statement.

Hope this helps!

Alex
I'll disagree with that. It's all about the tune bro! 500 crank isn't pushing it that much...
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 12:23 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by vx220
Hi I'm new to the forum and have been reading a lot about changing my air intakes but I'm not sure which one to get or make a DIY one? From what Iv been reading I was going to buy the needswing kit but I'm after as much help and opinions as possible please and pictures of yor kits.
get your self a tune, (many different venders) an intake Needswings is the best I know of and the most flow (because no one except Needswings will post the flow. A pulley, either a supercharger or crank (crank will give you more hp) and cost a little more, after that if you want to go faster then get the 82 Throttle body, fuel injectors, fuel rail and different pump. drag radials will help not spinning at each red light.,now you need a better heat exchanger ,an ice tank
some 100 or 110 fuel, and you are all set. now that you have spent maybe $10,000.00 and your car goes like hell I'll see you at the track, jim
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 03:36 PM
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Has anyone ever designed an e55 rear facing intake (T splitter in place of Y splitter) ALA the Code 3 intake for the C32/SLK32/SRT6. I have a C32 and an W211 E55 and I have yet to hear ANY sound clip that shows an E55 putting out a ton of supercharger whine like my Code 3 C32 does. I know it's probably not the best for power, but the sound is really addicting...
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 04:34 PM
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I've done a 3.5" T style intake and also a custom 3" to 3.5" Y style and didn't see much of a difference. The biggest difference I seen was running a custom intake on the dyno but didn't clear the hood.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Shifter
I'll disagree with that. It's all about the tune bro! 500 crank isn't pushing it that much...
Has to be 500 at the wheels, 500 at the crank is nothing. That is a simple box tune with K&Ns' dropped in. Now, 500 at the rears is a whole nother animule all together.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 10:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by e55amgrocket
I've done a 3.5" T style intake and also a custom 3" to 3.5" Y style and didn't see much of a difference. The biggest difference I seen was running a custom intake on the dyno but didn't clear the hood.
Did the t style splitter not increase whine , performance, or both? I was thinking of ordering another c32 t splitter and modifying it to fit the e55 (and creating a rear facing filter on the backside of the T) just for the increased supercharger whine that I hope it will bring. My friends stock c32 is so much quieter than mine with the code 3 intake that I have been hoping someone would create an intake that makes the same sound difference for the e55.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 10:32 PM
  #22  
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I bet that new weistec setup will have some hellacious supercharger whine!
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 11:53 PM
  #23  
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Many approaches to mod the car, keep in conservative and your motor will be fine. Take advantage of group buys when they pop up to save in the long run as things get pricey quick.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 03:20 PM
  #24  
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I personally started with K&N drop ins and EC box tune. I thought i read somewhere you could swap in the sl55 air tube for a bit more flow for really cheap. Is that still true / dyno tested?
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #25  
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Do any of the carbon fiber intakes make more power or it is just looks?
Also do those air scoops help or just look cool...I heard that the SL throttle body helps a lot. Not sure on the air intakes tho...
What is the best CAI?
Nubie to the Benz Mod World
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