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How did you find out that the bolt is broken? was the bolt gone when you check from the bottom or you did unscrew it and found it broken in half? Thanks. Cus I have been experiencing some noise from the rear
How did you find out that the bolt is broken? was the bolt gone when you check from the bottom or you did unscrew it and found it broken in half? Thanks. Cus I have been experiencing some noise from the rear
Yes, there are both front and rear Subframe bolts (Left and Right) in the rear end of the car, thus four (4) bolts and their subsequent Bushings in total. WIS Calls for them to be repaired (replaced) in "pairs" (both front and/or both rear) , as to remove all four at the same time could effect Alignment supposedly. That said, since this Wuhan Virus scare has everything shut down, with no other distractions I'm using this time to renew as many Bushings possible plus installing new rear Struts and AirSprings, and dropping the entire rear axle on a Tranny lift to give the room to use tools to remove/install those burly Bushings may be the way to go since I'll be disco'ing all the control Arms to renew bushes anyway as well add new brakes, rotors and pads! Further, WIS indicates two (one R and one L) Bushings on either side of the Differential as well as one in the rear passenger side (but in-situation I haven't located that one). WIS Calls for one to remove a (Random) Rear bolt so as to allow room to remove the Differential mounting Bushings, but on my 07' E63 there are logically just the two R&L and nothing in the rear as per my version of WIS?? Strange, yes? So that would suggest I should replace those first using the Tranny lift for the Diff before dropping the whole Subframe. Update-I ended up disco’ing the AirSpring Wiring Harness at the back of the Diff as well as the E-Brake. Since I already had the Driveshaft removed due to me removing the Tranny to do the Rear Main Seal, all that was left to drop the subframe was to disco the Calipers, remove the Gas Hose and disco the AirSpring Hoses. Then I put the Tranny Jack under the Diff, and unscrewed each Subframe bolt by hand. I was surprised to see how well balanced the subframe was side to side once I lowered it from the car. But then again, it being an AMG, I shouldn’t have!
I also have Shardul's UPD rear Tow Links, which are some seriously buff anodized red pieces of art!, but I haven't mocked them up yet and after taking inventory I've come the realization that I have to order new bolts to do the install as they are all one-use bolts back there in that once you tighten to the initial spec, you then tighten further by a 1/4 or a 1/2 turn depending on the location of the bolts. Update- Installed the UPD Arms (see below).
Since I'm doing a Rear Main Seal first, and having a local shop rebuild the Tranny since there's a 100k on her, the Drive Shaft will be removed with both F&R rubber disc's renewed as well. I'm a little concerned about the alignment of the DriveShaft perhaps being effected with the renewal of both sides discs as well as the mid-shaft bearing, so I've marked where the Tranny Drive flange is oriented in relation to the opposing flange of the DriveShaft and have done same for the rear Diff, and I'll be sure to look for any shims when I drop the mid-shaft bearing mount! Update-Driveshaft is lined up perfectly, no brainer really!!
All of the above however is currently delayed due to one of the 4 T45 Torx bolts being stripped on the mid-cross bar keeping me from being able to drop the exhaust!!! Since the bolts are seated in a recessed "slot" of that cross-bar, it has proven to be difficult! Initially I center punched and tried to slowly drill it out using the proper oil in order to use an extractor, but somehow it got wobbly so I stopped drilling. I then busted out a hand held hack saw and that slot served as a perfect guide as to enable me to efficiently cut a very straight slot in the top of the bolt, but it's too thin to use a screwdriver so I'm going to double-up on the hacksaw blades and see if that might work. Since the hole of the stripped T45 is nearly 8mm wide, a normal large screwdriver isn't wide enough (i.e.-3/8) so I've ordered a 1/2 Drive 5/8 ratchet to hopefully do the job! I figure I'll use a torch to heat it up and maybe use some of that loctite spray ice on the bolt before using a bottle jack to press upwards onto my 1/2 breaker bar with that 5/8 slot ratchet to bust her loose! If that doesn't work, perhaps I have to drill out or Dremel cut the head off and the cut another slot once the cross-bar is removed! Yikes!!!! Update, cutting the slot with two blades fitted worked!
Whole Subframe lowered and pulled out to loosen rear Differential mount bolts as well as to re-attach Rebuilt Air Springs and mock-up all the Arms to confirm the smooth glide Up & Down of the Carrier after installing the K-Mac Poly Bushings. Both Rear Mount Bolts only partially removed/loosened in order to re-attach Subframe with longer "Camshaft Bolts" to suspend it in order to then remove Differential. Why? Because the clearance between the rear Diff mount bolts and the Spare Tire well isn’t wide enough to fit a torque wrench or breaker bar! Front Differential Subframe Crossmember Bolt, will have to pull it out flush with surface in order to install! Full side view of Rear Subframe. You can see passenger side front Diff Subframe bolt recessed as much as possible at the top side ( held in place with Duct Tape!) in order to more easily install to attach Subframe back into car. The closer view (lower left) is still fully inserted next to the number 5. These are the upper 2 of 4 front Diff mounting bolts to the removable crossmember. Unfortunately, the front crossmember can't be removed without first loosening the rear mount bolts (which I did with Subframe to side of car in previous photo. Had to support frame on both sides and use 3 foot breaker with floor jack handle for extra leverage to break loose!! ) Using my own Ace Hardware sourced Bushing Extraction/Install Tool along with a little Soap & Water made the install easy! K-mac Poly Bushings in all the upper arms (8) total. New OEM bushing in each Carrier as well as UPD Rear Toe Arms. UPD Mounts come in 2 pieces (Doah!) so I had them welded together, painted ‘em and slapped them on. Also new Thrust Arms each side. All bushings, 3.06 Ring & Pinion w/LSD, new Shocks, rebuilt AirSprings, new hubs, rotors, DS Rubber Discs w/Intermediate Bearing, and Rear Main Seal, Blk Series Tranny Mount, new engine & Steering rack Mounts, finally installed and she handles everything I throw at her!
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
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