GT-ER

Make a new key + keyway on the crank that will hold better and reuse the same pulley. I did this have had zero issues in over a year.

Manuyc

GT-ER I am worried that from the pics I posted on the thread it looks as if the pulley got a little worn by the key way slot. Check it out and let me know please. Thanks

Would you use a stock key way again

gaspam

he is saying get a new woodruff key (its a $4 part) and have them weld it onto the crankshaft and it should be fine.... this is what my shop did and cost me about $1200 since they had to remove the engine

i believe gt-er did it without removing his engine

Manuyc

Dam dam dam, yeah he said he has to do, dam just for a 4 buck part it cost some much to fix. Not excluding the not torq enough.

That weld to crank is to much for me and I'm sure out of there expertise level. Did you get a chance to see the sleeve on the pulley does it look good at the end of it?

gaspam

i saw your pulley in the other thread and the keyway looks fine.

crank snot looks good too, looks same as mine when mine came off.

you are a little luckier than me though as mine came off about 300 miles into a roadtrip to canada i had to get my car towed back to nashville which was pretty expensive but luckily once there 320dreamer came and picked me and my car up and we towed it to BIP in atlanta and they fixed me up perfectly! without 320dreamer and chawkins i would of been screwed

Manuyc

That's real cool gaspam that they helped you out, and dam while on a road trip too.
and I appreciate all the help I'm getting on this from you and everyone else as well.

Manuyc

I just wanted to also say thank you to chawkins2001 for calling me and helping me out with some good info on how to resolve the issue on repair, There are some real cool people on here

GT-ER

No welding is needed. I just cut a new keyway on the crank with a dremel and installed a new key that I got at a local machine shop ( they gave it to me free ). No welding required since the pulley will hold the key in place and I did the job in under an hour. I just removed the radiator fan and removed the front cover seal to make room. I also stuffed towels around to not get any metal shavings in my oil pan. Worked great.

I installed a parallel key which is much stronger than a woodruff key and easier to install.

Manuyc

It all sounds tempting GT-ER but I would rather have them put the oem crank pulley back on just to make sure that it drives good then maybe later do and pulley upgrade. I want to make sure the snout is balanced with the stock pulley.

GT-ER

That's cool. It's your choice.

Jakpro1

Shardul = AMG god.

chawkins2001

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Whoever told you that garbage, take your car, and run in the opposite direction as fast as you can.

I explained to you yesterday, the only possible ways you can correct this botch up Jamy.

BTW, if you are trying to TQ down an OEM crank bolt to 275 ftlbs plus a 90* turn, that is not the right bolt to be doing that man. You need the new asp bolt for that sir. The OEM bolt was not manufactured to be tq'd to that type of spec, and doing that alone causes it to lose it authenticity. It was not made to be stretched like, and it loses it's clamping force.

Just my .02 cents, what do I know.

grantwoodtx

I have a crank that came off a motor that's only ever had 2 pulleys installed if you need it.

GT-ER

I think he just mis read what I posted with the welding part. Some may argue with my method but the result speaks for it's self.

I also torqued mine to 275+90 with no issues, apparently EC doesn't have an issue with this either.

Manuyc

Here are more pics of the car the tech said that he torq it right and also said that the bolt would have not held 275+90 nm
The tech took me back where the car was and shown me what he did and I don't see anything wrong on his part he handled the situation just right and did not cause nymore damage to my car.
He said that when the key was sheared the pulley had notching to grab on to that it was it was able to unscrew the bolt thus causing the pulley to fall out. He noticed right away so he turned the car off. He tired to address the matter quickly before the tow truck even got Ther and burned his arm in the process.

Manuyc

Thank you for the offer but let hope not

Manuyc

That guy was explaining to me that on the asp pulley there is no timing or degree marks on it like the stock one and there is no rubber inbetween the crank pulley like the stock one.

gaspam

that is precisely where the tech screwed up.... per eurocharged and ASP instuctions on their pulley and bolt the torque spec is 275 +90 ..... the tech thinks this is a stock bolt and it is not.... it is a bolt that is meant to be torqued much higher than the stock bolt spec so that it stretchs and essentially locks the pulley in... the tech did not do this and the pulley came of right in a matter or minutes. they key sheared because the pulley came loose because it was not torqued tight enough.

if you are putting the a stock pulley back on then the 275+ 90 torque spec is no longer necessary and you follow factor MB spec since its a completely different pulley and bolt (for stock pulley and stock bolt it is 148+90), but with the ASP/EC pulley the torque spec per the manufaturer is 275+ 90... anything less and the pulley is going to come off.

here is a thread with the manufaturer themselves saying 275+ 90 is the correct torque spec

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...mm-pulley.html

gaspam

he has the correct asp bolt that came with the asp pulley that is supposed to be torqued to 275+ 90 per the manufaturer..... his tech didnt do that and thats why the pulley came off within minutes... same reason my last pulley came off

GT-ER

The bolt is different? Mine brought a regular amg bolt and it held the 275+90 fine.

gaspam

i assumed it was since they require such a high torque spec but maybe its the same bolt and they just require it to be torqued higher.... either way, the correct torque spec from the manufaturer is 275+90

Manuyc

With all do respect gaspam the tech is very smart and it was bad from the beginning, the tech stated the same thing that he tightened to 200 nm + 90 and he stated that the oem bolt cannot be torq that much.

Now he thought the bolt in the Box that came along with the asp pulley was stock one since the they looked the identicle. He also said that there was no instructions in the box stating that it was supposed to be torq to 275nm+90
Which makes sense as I did not know either I was not informed as well. there was absolutly no paper work in the box. I mean **** happens

gaspam

definitely not trying to say the tech is stupid (like you said sh#t happens) , but it is his job to know what he is installing... it was an aftermarket part and not oem so if he was not familiar with that particular aftermarket part then he should of either researched it and asked for instructions or he should of not installed it.

but instead he treated it as an oem part and messed up your car because he assumed an aftermarket part should be installed the same as an oem part

as others have said, he should be fixing this for you for free... i know he probably wont as the shop that screwed mine up didnt either, but they should

berti_00

The kind of guy he is he would peobably do it for him free but the shop wont let him... and while we were there we saw how the valve covers and all the wires were off we said we would bring u a set of spark pkugs to install and then motor and tranny mount to put in and he was cool with it and is going to do it for him as part of the rest of the job... if it was a random tech he would of not gave two sh!!ts

GT-ER

Yeah, it's a regular AMG bolt. Regardless, you are correct on the torque.