CharlyE500

Now make more sense to upgrade only the SC pulley instead of Crank.

PACougar

David, this sucks! I'm sorry to see this happen to you, I guess we all know what shop not to go to for a crank pulley install.

urbamworm

I don't know man, it is crazy with both of us there were many miles logged before a problem. It is just crazy that after 12k miles this happens. I did have some belt throwing problems like him too in the last 2 thousand miles or so, wonder if that was a sign something was about to hit the fan.

All I can say is everyone needs to check their bolts often.

BBBSS

I was just gonna ask if people with pulleys are checking the bolts are still tight from time to time. Maybe slowly loosening up over time from the shock of the clutch locking up over and over?

I'm sticking to a supercharger pulley for now, and if I ever feel froggy I'll get a used stock hub/welded style crank pulley.

tbal

Damn! And falls off now? wtf?

Anyways good luck with the fix man

Denroll

Totally sucks to hear, man. Here's hoping its not too bad.

pearlpower

Curious what torque spec was used and if bolt stretch failure could be a cause? Is the bolt still intact if available? Piece in crank? 2 years, strange, just seems like bolt fatigue failure.

lowprofile

^ Torque spec would be great to know.
It seems like many of these failures are on pulleys using aftermarket hubs, as opposed to those which use the factory hub. Perhaps the aftermarket hubs are not tuned to the same frequency or the material used for the hub are expanding/contracting differently, idk.

Sorry this happened to you. Good luck with the repairs.

pearlpower

Ditto, thinking the same, just wanted to hold off till we gather up more info. I know the latest torque spec on these non OEM pulleys is extreme to say the least. Wondering out loud if that is taking the bolt to a point where it loses it's long term integrity. I never understood why a lighter pulley is torqued higher vs. OEM.

GT-ER

Wow, that is scary. I'm creeping up to the 2 year mark myself since my pulley fell off and it's still going strong...for now I guess.

It's the oem key guys...it's absurdly small in this car. A lot of people insist the key does nothing to hold the pulley but it does, and a lot.

GT-ER

I believe the material the oem hub is made of is softer than the aftermarket one. A softer metal will clamp harder than the opposite.

gaspam

from what i understand , the welded pulley have the harmonic balancer welded sandwiched in, while the pulleys like urbamworm and i had do not and i think this causes them to vibrate the bolt enough over time to cause it to lose its clamping force and ultimatley come undone like both of ours did. just like his, mine took some time to come undone so i believe it was torqued correctly at first but harmonic vibration perhaps vibrated the bolt long enough to cause it to lose its clamping force and back out.

when i took my car in for repair after my pulley came of the tech said he would never use an unwelded pulley due to lack of harmonic balancing, so i bought a welded ASP pulley the second time around and had it pinned to the crankshaft which should also act mush like a larger key GT-ER as speaking of

totally sucks for op, as i know what he's going through and its no fun at all

Yacht Master

Terrible news David, hope the crank and key way are OK.
I find it odd after 2 yrs and 12K miles, a failure would occure.
I am wondering if we aren't seeing the result of detonation.
Did you get a CEL? I would do a quick scan for codes and stored codes
looking for missfires, seems to me we are getting too many failures to only blame the install. I feel if the install was incorrect the failure would have been the common < 100 miles after install.

kustom2k1

I think LP is on to something and it has to do with the harmonics/vibrations caused at certain RPMs. I believe this is why it took so long for the bolt to loosen.

e55amgrocket

That crankshaft looks kinda rough too. I hope its just a bad picture and you don't end up needing a crankshaft.

gaspam

+1 on the harmonics... this is exactly what my tech, that fixed my car when the same pulley fell off, was saying to me

TTMotorsports

Ding ding ding ding!!!!!

We have a winner!!!

PLEASE READ ABOVE. THIS IS EXACTLY WHY THIS TYPE OF PULLEY FAILS. THE SAME REASON THE RTR PULLEY FAILED BUT AT A MUCH FASTER RATE. FINALLY SOMEONE GETS IT!!

TTM has never used that type of pulley and we have NO FAILURES and over 50+ pulley installs using the OEM bolt and OEM factory torque specs.

CARRY ON Kool-Aid drinkers!!

e55amgrocket

ATI said the same thing when i had the pulley come off and i contacted them about it. To put it bluntly the guy said there's a reason that you can only find a few places that make crank pulleys and the ones you find have been around awhile.

urbamworm

Here is where I get more confused. I took the pulley out and there is NO keyway in my crank. I looked all the way around the little snout several times and there isn't one.

The snout itself doesn't look to bad to me looking at it up close. It looks much worse in a picture than it really is. I am just a little confused by this no keyway in it. I can see all the way to the back of the snout and there is nothing.

This is looking down from upper left


This is looking up from bottom right



This is the pulley




Here is the bolt, I assume that worn down spot midway is from when the pulley slid off the snout and was spinning on the bolt until I shut the car off. The accessory belt was still on it and it was kind of wedged sidways as you saw in the first pic I posted at beginning of thread then I started seeing smoke and a funny sound coming from under the hood.




As for torque spec, I have no idea since I didn't do it. I read something about having problems with the "lightweight" pullies in a post above. I weighted this thing and it isn't light, I don't have a stock one here yet to compare to but it weights 10.2lbs on my scale.

And the sight I wish I would have never seen, going on a wrecker.

Hulk

Now go fap lol

Hulk

UW, I think the welded one weighs more than 10lbs

urbamworm

I just happen to do a scan with a basic scanner from Advance Auto Parts about 30 minutes before this and there were no codes. As I said I was on the way to a Napa to check for availability of some parts and to get to the bottom of my battery visit workshop light problem that just started. I went to Advance first to get codes read and see if they could get the battery control module (which they couldn't) so I was then heading to Napa and then lastly the dealer but didn't quite make it.

pearlpower

OEM 10.5lbs
180mm multi piece 9.5 lbs
My 200mm ASP welded 14.5lbs

gaspam

thank you sir means a lot coming from you as i am a TTM fan , but i cant take the credit as there are some pretty smart guys at BIP that taught me a few things while i was talking to them while i had my car in there after my debacle

e55amgrocket

Looks like you will be BIP's first crank exchange customer from those pictures. You probably can't see the key way because when the pulley came loose it spun over the keyway and ground it down into the crank. My crank actually welded itself to the pulley when it and loose.