It may be time to say Good Bye to the Ole 55 *Engine Damage*
#27
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#28
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I will be checking again soon. Most likely about 1000 miles.
Drive the car. If it's not misfiring or knocking I wouldn't worry about it. And don't go so long without an oil change. 10k miles or 1 year with less miles with the FACTORY filter and synthetic oil is ok, I prefer to change mine every 5k due to the Florida heat and my driving style. The service reminder on the dash "should be" idiot proof.
It would indeed be sick. The torque would most likely destroy the car though. Maybe an M113 sans supercharger would do it, then sell off the SC for fabrication costs.
#30
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This place is a joke.
Have your oil changed at the dealer and ask them to reset your FSS counter. Shouldn't cost more than about $90. I have never seen an FSS not work except once when the black reset knob on the cluster was inop. It's really a nice feature to monitor your oil change intervals. As for the rest of the maintanence schedule it never did work right from the factory.
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Purchase a magnetic drain plug for your car, do a quick changeover when the oil is cold and then run the car for a few hundred miles, of course after topping up for any lose during the plug change. then drain and see what is stuck to the plug. Or you can epoxy a magnet close to the drain plug and then prior to removing the plug for oil change chisel the magnet off, silicone will also work and will remove easier. Any steel particulate will be attracted to the magnet and not circulated internally. External oil pressure reading will also assist you in determining bearing clearance issues, especially at idle from cold start to operating temp. Good Luck Heavier weight oil will extend the life of your engine but start driving conservative with no WOT unless you have friend in the bank or own the bank.
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Oil pressure switch is located near oil filter, but hopefully some one with total knowledge on the 55 platform will chime in. What was proposed is that the sender unit be removed and a T connection placed into the same threaded port the sender comes out of, replace the sender unit and on the other side of the T thread in a mechanical gauge so you can see what the pressure is cold and also what it is when hot both at idle. This will give you an idea of the condition of the rod and main bearings within the engine. Don't forget the magnetic plug to collect metal, knowing aluminum is not metallic draining through cheese cloth is also recommended. Hopefully all works out for you.