CLS55 Weistec
#52
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I will eventually replace those rubber-hose 90's with AN fittings, but I double/triple checked that they are NOT kinked and have verified flow visually by running the pump and looping the hose into my tank. It's less than ideal the way it's designed, but it's the way Weistec specifies to hook it up.
I'm experimenting with replacing the Johnson with an 010 to get more flow across the core, but realize that too much flow/pressure will negatively effect the heat exchange if the water doesn't have enough time in the core.
By the end of the weekend, I will have more data, including a new tune.
I'm experimenting with replacing the Johnson with an 010 to get more flow across the core, but realize that too much flow/pressure will negatively effect the heat exchange if the water doesn't have enough time in the core.
By the end of the weekend, I will have more data, including a new tune.
#53
I will eventually replace those rubber-hose 90's with AN fittings, but I double/triple checked that they are NOT kinked and have verified flow visually by running the pump and looping the hose into my tank. It's less than ideal the way it's designed, but it's the way Weistec specifies to hook it up.
I'm experimenting with replacing the Johnson with an 010 to get more flow across the core, but realize that too much flow/pressure will negatively effect the heat exchange if the water doesn't have enough time in the core.
By the end of the weekend, I will have more data, including a new tune.
I'm experimenting with replacing the Johnson with an 010 to get more flow across the core, but realize that too much flow/pressure will negatively effect the heat exchange if the water doesn't have enough time in the core.
By the end of the weekend, I will have more data, including a new tune.
#54
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Wherever isn't gonna get me hit
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'05 SL65, '13 FX4 Eco
Grats on getting this thing all put together! Looks great.
I would start with the intake on this thing and get it down to the inlets in the grill for more of a ram air effect. I had put a custom cold air intake on my car that just sat on the engine and there was a noticeable power loss. It sounded great but had slower ETs and traps with it on from sucking in all the hot air. Even on cold 40 degree nights it was still noticeably slower.
I would start with the intake on this thing and get it down to the inlets in the grill for more of a ram air effect. I had put a custom cold air intake on my car that just sat on the engine and there was a noticeable power loss. It sounded great but had slower ETs and traps with it on from sucking in all the hot air. Even on cold 40 degree nights it was still noticeably slower.
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
iTrader: (1)
You're stuck with a hard 19' bend there regardless, and if you want to split hairs the metal 90' fittings will be smaller internally than the rubber hose ends. I agree that eventually way down the road that could be an issue but he's more than fine with that for now.
#56
You're stuck with a hard 19' bend there regardless, and if you want to split hairs the metal 90' fittings will be smaller internally than the rubber hose ends. I agree that eventually way down the road that could be an issue but he's more than fine with that for now.
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
iTrader: (1)
Oh yeah yould definitely want to use AN stuff. I was just noting that the ID of the tube on a 90' radius for a #12 AN fitting he'd want to use is .600 while the ID of the rubber hose is .750. Either will work fine, I'm personally using AN hoses on the back of mine basically for looks.
The ID of the tubes on the inside of the Weistec manifold that connect the exterior hoses to the internal core is smaller still @.535
The ID of the tubes on the inside of the Weistec manifold that connect the exterior hoses to the internal core is smaller still @.535
Last edited by Sir-Boost-a-Lot; 05-25-2013 at 09:53 AM.
#58
Oh yeah yould definitely want to use AN stuff. I was just noting that the ID of the tube on a 90' radius for a #12 AN fitting he'd want to use is .600 while the ID of the rubber hose is .750. Either will work fine, I'm personally using AN hoses on the back of mine basically for looks.
The ID of the tubes on the inside of the Weistec manifold that connect the exterior hoses to the internal core is smaller still @.535
The ID of the tubes on the inside of the Weistec manifold that connect the exterior hoses to the internal core is smaller still @.535
http://www.diytrade.com/china/pd/109...re_Sleeve.html
![](https://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/1960354/28525653/0/1346850939/Fiberglass_High_Temperature_Sleeve.jpg)
Fiberglass High Temperature Sleeve -- Silicone rubber coated fiberglass sleeve protects hoses, cables and wires from molten metal splash, high heat hazards and occasional exposure to flame, in steel plants,glass plants, foundries, cutting and welding shops and wherever hoses, cables and wires may be exposed to high heat or occasional flame. Fire Sleeve also may be used to insulate your race cars plumbing system.
#61
MBWorld Fanatic!
#64
MBWorld Fanatic!
#65
Former Vendor of MBWorld
So, even after upgrading to the "more efficient" supercharger you have to add the same upgraded cooling system as you do with the stock supercharger
If thats true that that kinda sucks.
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
#66
Super Member
#68
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I was disappointed too until I considered the facts:
My cruising temps are appx 110-115 and soar to a blistering 120-125 at WOT.![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
A shot of meth cures all!![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I have been running a larger pulley to be conservative and the beast feels great. I'm gonna switch out to the smaller (Weistec "standard") one soon as see what I get. I have a multitude of new logging on the car: water temp in and out of IC, air temps before TB, wideband on each bank, EGT, and better/faster MAP sensor. With more visibility, I can make logical, scientific conclusions based on fact, not speculation.
I'm in the midst of a custom/redesigned larger H/E up front to see if I can lower temps and/or remove heat from the system during cruising. When not wailing on it much, I don't see why the water temps can't be very close to ambient.
- the intercooler still sits right on top of a heater.
- at a given boost pressure, the Weistec is compressing a LOT more air into the same space. Compressing=heat.
- Those Krauts seemed happy with higher IAT's on the stock unit in favor of consistency (ie. using engine coolant) so just need to tune for it.
- The stock IAT sensor sits in an out-of-way area on the Weistec and is reading a bit higher than actual temps and actual temp is subject to some conductive readings/ (confirmed by Weistec--apparently they did some testing with REAL temp sensors and each port to see actual).
My cruising temps are appx 110-115 and soar to a blistering 120-125 at WOT.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
A shot of meth cures all!
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I have been running a larger pulley to be conservative and the beast feels great. I'm gonna switch out to the smaller (Weistec "standard") one soon as see what I get. I have a multitude of new logging on the car: water temp in and out of IC, air temps before TB, wideband on each bank, EGT, and better/faster MAP sensor. With more visibility, I can make logical, scientific conclusions based on fact, not speculation.
I'm in the midst of a custom/redesigned larger H/E up front to see if I can lower temps and/or remove heat from the system during cruising. When not wailing on it much, I don't see why the water temps can't be very close to ambient.
Last edited by MindBend; 06-12-2013 at 09:06 AM.
#69
Senior Member
Thread Starter
A butt-dyno comment about the performance: even with the larger pulley (I'm running a 62.5mm, not the 56mm that most are running) resulting in appx 12PSI, it doesn't seem to have the same fast/low-end torque on the stock system (compared to my old E with Kleemann tune, headers, pulley) but once it wakes-up, it pulls CRAZY hard the whole way to the top. I was able to horrify and unsuspecting C6 that tried to do a right lane pass. I am sure he went to Googling when he got home. ![Confused](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
As soon as I get some time, got more pix, info and data logs to post.
![Confused](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
As soon as I get some time, got more pix, info and data logs to post.
#71
MBWorld Fanatic!
I was disappointed too until I considered the facts:
My cruising temps are appx 110-115 and soar to a blistering 120-125 at WOT.![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
A shot of meth cures all!![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I have been running a larger pulley to be conservative and the beast feels great. I'm gonna switch out to the smaller (Weistec "standard") one soon as see what I get. I have a multitude of new logging on the car: water temp in and out of IC, air temps before TB, wideband on each bank, EGT, and better/faster MAP sensor. With more visibility, I can make logical, scientific conclusions based on fact, not speculation.
I'm in the midst of a custom/redesigned larger H/E up front to see if I can lower temps and/or remove heat from the system during cruising. When not wailing on it much, I don't see why the water temps can't be very close to ambient.
- the intercooler still sits right on top of a heater.
- at a given boost pressure, the Weistec is compressing a LOT more air into the same space. Compressing=heat.
- Those Krauts seemed happy with higher IAT's on the stock unit in favor of consistency (ie. using engine coolant) so just need to tune for it.
- The stock IAT sensor sits in an out-of-way area on the Weistec and is reading a bit higher than actual temps and actual temp is subject to some conductive readings/ (confirmed by Weistec--apparently they did some testing with REAL temp sensors and each port to see actual).
My cruising temps are appx 110-115 and soar to a blistering 120-125 at WOT.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
A shot of meth cures all!
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I have been running a larger pulley to be conservative and the beast feels great. I'm gonna switch out to the smaller (Weistec "standard") one soon as see what I get. I have a multitude of new logging on the car: water temp in and out of IC, air temps before TB, wideband on each bank, EGT, and better/faster MAP sensor. With more visibility, I can make logical, scientific conclusions based on fact, not speculation.
I'm in the midst of a custom/redesigned larger H/E up front to see if I can lower temps and/or remove heat from the system during cruising. When not wailing on it much, I don't see why the water temps can't be very close to ambient.
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
#72
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I guess it depends on what you mean by, "for this to work". Splitting the cooling and using a small BMW PS reservoir was not enough, for me. I was seeing IAT's similar to stock systems at WOT (in the neighborhood of 150).
That didn't satisfy me since I think 150-ish is where I need to lift my foot. With a trunk tank, I am able to stay under that (never did any really long blasts) but I want meth for the added insurance and to keep my timing advanced. I've noted that on the tune I have (I asked for CONSERVATIVE) the timing is at nearly 1/2 of timing-tables with IAT's of 155. Is this bad, I don't think so--safe is good, for me.
It was more than I felt like messing with initially, but having a LONG history of forced induction cars, you gotta do what you gotta do. On previous cars, I had to upgrade radiators, intakes, intercoolers, piping, add extra fuel/pumps/regulators, gaskets, stronger apex seals and water seals on my rotary rockets, etc.
So, for a nominal extra expense (and sweat) I have a system that appears to be happy, makes power, and should be reliable: temps are good, A/F is good, tires make lots of white smoke. My goals are NOT to make 1/4 mile passes, but rather to have a reliable road-car that I can take to the road-course a few times a year, pi$$ and moan about the car pushing like a pig and brakes fading, but not overheat and go home happy.
Disclaimer before asked: I have no affiliation, association, or love affair with Weistec other than having met them once. So far, they've been communicative, accommodating and reasonable with me. I have been creeping-up on my successful install and have not totally arrived. I expect to find more power as I address things one-by-one, data-log a lot, and methodically optimize the system to my car/environment. If I blow it up, maybe I'll sing another tune! LOL!
That didn't satisfy me since I think 150-ish is where I need to lift my foot. With a trunk tank, I am able to stay under that (never did any really long blasts) but I want meth for the added insurance and to keep my timing advanced. I've noted that on the tune I have (I asked for CONSERVATIVE) the timing is at nearly 1/2 of timing-tables with IAT's of 155. Is this bad, I don't think so--safe is good, for me.
It was more than I felt like messing with initially, but having a LONG history of forced induction cars, you gotta do what you gotta do. On previous cars, I had to upgrade radiators, intakes, intercoolers, piping, add extra fuel/pumps/regulators, gaskets, stronger apex seals and water seals on my rotary rockets, etc.
So, for a nominal extra expense (and sweat) I have a system that appears to be happy, makes power, and should be reliable: temps are good, A/F is good, tires make lots of white smoke. My goals are NOT to make 1/4 mile passes, but rather to have a reliable road-car that I can take to the road-course a few times a year, pi$$ and moan about the car pushing like a pig and brakes fading, but not overheat and go home happy.
Disclaimer before asked: I have no affiliation, association, or love affair with Weistec other than having met them once. So far, they've been communicative, accommodating and reasonable with me. I have been creeping-up on my successful install and have not totally arrived. I expect to find more power as I address things one-by-one, data-log a lot, and methodically optimize the system to my car/environment. If I blow it up, maybe I'll sing another tune! LOL!
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
#74
MBWorld Fanatic!
I guess it depends on what you mean by, "for this to work". Splitting the cooling and using a small BMW PS reservoir was not enough, for me. I was seeing IAT's similar to stock systems at WOT (in the neighborhood of 150).
That didn't satisfy me since I think 150-ish is where I need to lift my foot. With a trunk tank, I am able to stay under that (never did any really long blasts) but I want meth for the added insurance and to keep my timing advanced. I've noted that on the tune I have (I asked for CONSERVATIVE) the timing is at nearly 1/2 of timing-tables with IAT's of 155. Is this bad, I don't think so--safe is good, for me.
It was more than I felt like messing with initially, but having a LONG history of forced induction cars, you gotta do what you gotta do. On previous cars, I had to upgrade radiators, intakes, intercoolers, piping, add extra fuel/pumps/regulators, gaskets, stronger apex seals and water seals on my rotary rockets, etc.
So, for a nominal extra expense (and sweat) I have a system that appears to be happy, makes power, and should be reliable: temps are good, A/F is good, tires make lots of white smoke. My goals are NOT to make 1/4 mile passes, but rather to have a reliable road-car that I can take to the road-course a few times a year, pi$$ and moan about the car pushing like a pig and brakes fading, but not overheat and go home happy.
Disclaimer before asked: I have no affiliation, association, or love affair with Weistec other than having met them once. So far, they've been communicative, accommodating and reasonable with me. I have been creeping-up on my successful install and have not totally arrived. I expect to find more power as I address things one-by-one, data-log a lot, and methodically optimize the system to my car/environment. If I blow it up, maybe I'll sing another tune! LOL!![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
That didn't satisfy me since I think 150-ish is where I need to lift my foot. With a trunk tank, I am able to stay under that (never did any really long blasts) but I want meth for the added insurance and to keep my timing advanced. I've noted that on the tune I have (I asked for CONSERVATIVE) the timing is at nearly 1/2 of timing-tables with IAT's of 155. Is this bad, I don't think so--safe is good, for me.
It was more than I felt like messing with initially, but having a LONG history of forced induction cars, you gotta do what you gotta do. On previous cars, I had to upgrade radiators, intakes, intercoolers, piping, add extra fuel/pumps/regulators, gaskets, stronger apex seals and water seals on my rotary rockets, etc.
So, for a nominal extra expense (and sweat) I have a system that appears to be happy, makes power, and should be reliable: temps are good, A/F is good, tires make lots of white smoke. My goals are NOT to make 1/4 mile passes, but rather to have a reliable road-car that I can take to the road-course a few times a year, pi$$ and moan about the car pushing like a pig and brakes fading, but not overheat and go home happy.
Disclaimer before asked: I have no affiliation, association, or love affair with Weistec other than having met them once. So far, they've been communicative, accommodating and reasonable with me. I have been creeping-up on my successful install and have not totally arrived. I expect to find more power as I address things one-by-one, data-log a lot, and methodically optimize the system to my car/environment. If I blow it up, maybe I'll sing another tune! LOL!
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)