CLS55 Weistec
#76
I was disappointed too until I considered the facts:
A shot of meth cures all!
I have been running a larger pulley to be conservative and the beast feels great. I'm gonna switch out to the smaller (Weistec "standard") one soon as see what I get. I have a multitude of new logging on the car: water temp in and out of IC, air temps before TB, wideband on each bank, EGT, and better/faster MAP sensor. With more visibility, I can make logical, scientific conclusions based on fact, not speculation.
I'm in the midst of a custom/redesigned larger H/E up front to see if I can lower temps and/or remove heat from the system during cruising. When not wailing on it much, I don't see why the water temps can't be very close to ambient.
- the intercooler still sits right on top of a heater.
- at a given boost pressure, the Weistec is compressing a LOT more air into the same space. Compressing=heat.
- Those Krauts seemed happy with higher IAT's on the stock unit in favor of consistency (ie. using engine coolant) so just need to tune for it.
- The stock IAT sensor sits in an out-of-way area on the Weistec and is reading a bit higher than actual temps and actual temp is subject to some conductive readings/ (confirmed by Weistec--apparently they did some testing with REAL temp sensors and each port to see actual).
A shot of meth cures all!
I have been running a larger pulley to be conservative and the beast feels great. I'm gonna switch out to the smaller (Weistec "standard") one soon as see what I get. I have a multitude of new logging on the car: water temp in and out of IC, air temps before TB, wideband on each bank, EGT, and better/faster MAP sensor. With more visibility, I can make logical, scientific conclusions based on fact, not speculation.
I'm in the midst of a custom/redesigned larger H/E up front to see if I can lower temps and/or remove heat from the system during cruising. When not wailing on it much, I don't see why the water temps can't be very close to ambient.
Your preliminary IAT data intrigues me. My IAT issues were similar to but significantly more pronounced than yours appear to be, but I was running the smaller upper pulley with a 168mm crank pulley so my blower was working a lot harder than is yours. Although I had a trunk tank and EC heat exchanger installed, I was not running meth.
The real evil in my case would manifest at cruising speeds when my IATs would quickly climb to 30 deg or so above ambient - I'm talking Celsius here (don't know how that converts), and invariably not fall below that margin even after extended freeway cruising at 70kph - So when going WOT, the IATs would invariably start out at an uncomfortably high level. The increment in IATs while going WOT was not dissimilar to that which I experienced on the stock blower but because of the high starting point, the end result after a pull to 200kph was perilously high (as I found out)
The upshot of all of this - as a starting point, I'm going to need to find a way to get my cruising speed IATs down to a palatable level
#78
I thought so. It was as though the bypass valve was not opening when it ought to have been. On enquiry, Weistec confirmed that the tune accommodated for the opening of the bypass valve at idle etc. On their suggestion, I shipped the bypass valve to them when I returned the blower for testing so that they could check to see if there was a mechanical malfunction at play. They didn't relay their findings in this regard to me but I assume that if they'd detected any issue, this would've been communicated.
#79
I was disappointed too until I considered the facts:
My cruising temps are appx 110-115 and soar to a blistering 120-125 at WOT.
A shot of meth cures all!
I have been running a larger pulley to be conservative and the beast feels great. I'm gonna switch out to the smaller (Weistec "standard") one soon as see what I get. I have a multitude of new logging on the car: water temp in and out of IC, air temps before TB, wideband on each bank, EGT, and better/faster MAP sensor. With more visibility, I can make logical, scientific conclusions based on fact, not speculation.
I'm in the midst of a custom/redesigned larger H/E up front to see if I can lower temps and/or remove heat from the system during cruising. When not wailing on it much, I don't see why the water temps can't be very close to ambient.
- the intercooler still sits right on top of a heater.
- at a given boost pressure, the Weistec is compressing a LOT more air into the same space. Compressing=heat.
- Those Krauts seemed happy with higher IAT's on the stock unit in favor of consistency (ie. using engine coolant) so just need to tune for it.
- The stock IAT sensor sits in an out-of-way area on the Weistec and is reading a bit higher than actual temps and actual temp is subject to some conductive readings/ (confirmed by Weistec--apparently they did some testing with REAL temp sensors and each port to see actual).
My cruising temps are appx 110-115 and soar to a blistering 120-125 at WOT.
A shot of meth cures all!
I have been running a larger pulley to be conservative and the beast feels great. I'm gonna switch out to the smaller (Weistec "standard") one soon as see what I get. I have a multitude of new logging on the car: water temp in and out of IC, air temps before TB, wideband on each bank, EGT, and better/faster MAP sensor. With more visibility, I can make logical, scientific conclusions based on fact, not speculation.
I'm in the midst of a custom/redesigned larger H/E up front to see if I can lower temps and/or remove heat from the system during cruising. When not wailing on it much, I don't see why the water temps can't be very close to ambient.
What was the ambient temp for this and how long was the WOT.
10f change in charge temp just seems a little to good
#83
I'm suspect of how reliable/accurate the IAT sensor is due to where it sits on the Weistec. (They confirmed high readings). However, if the ECM is using it for timing maps, it still matters since it will hack at your timing more and more as IAT's rise, creating no reward for more boost. (you're just making a heater).
AJM, if I'm understanding you correctly, your IAT's were appx 170+ at cruising, AND you still ran a small pulley (56mm?) on the blower, coupled with a 168 on the bottom AND decided to do a 200kph pass? If this is correct, you must have been charging 18+ psi and hitting IAT's in the 250's+easily. Is this correct? I'm surprised you didn't melt the whole thing.
Something is wrong with your cooling if you are cruising at 170F+: air in system? (hard to have with trunk tank) poor circulation/pump? HE that is inadequate? What's the temps of your water in the tank? FYI: I've moved my air filter forward as far as possible, touching the stock hole/inlet where the tubes connect. I've logged very little difference/benefit from this. More to come.
AJM, if I'm understanding you correctly, your IAT's were appx 170+ at cruising, AND you still ran a small pulley (56mm?) on the blower, coupled with a 168 on the bottom AND decided to do a 200kph pass? If this is correct, you must have been charging 18+ psi and hitting IAT's in the 250's+easily. Is this correct? I'm surprised you didn't melt the whole thing.
Something is wrong with your cooling if you are cruising at 170F+: air in system? (hard to have with trunk tank) poor circulation/pump? HE that is inadequate? What's the temps of your water in the tank? FYI: I've moved my air filter forward as far as possible, touching the stock hole/inlet where the tubes connect. I've logged very little difference/benefit from this. More to come.
Last edited by MindBend; 06-13-2013 at 09:24 AM.
#85
You say that like there's something wrong with it--R&D is the key to success and more cooling is always better, IMHO. My "more to come" statement primarily means that I'm data-logging and working on seeing where I currently stand. I've gone a LONG way from where I begun.
According to my calculations, to hit optimal meth/fuel ratios of 12.5% minimum, my current nozzle isn't large enough. So, yep--adding more cooling with a bigger meth nozzle. (or two, if required.)
According to my calculations, to hit optimal meth/fuel ratios of 12.5% minimum, my current nozzle isn't large enough. So, yep--adding more cooling with a bigger meth nozzle. (or two, if required.)
#86
Sometimes it's better to just read and learn than post. My .02.
#87
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
2012 F150 FX4 Ecoboost, 03 e46 M3 (sold), 05 E55 (build is on), 03 Escalade (going to sell)
Mindbend- Have you had the car on the dyno yet? What kind of numbers are you putting down so far?
#88
I'm suspect of how reliable/accurate the IAT sensor is due to where it sits on the Weistec. (They confirmed high readings). However, if the ECM is using it for timing maps, it still matters since it will hack at your timing more and more as IAT's rise, creating no reward for more boost. (you're just making a heater).
AJM, if I'm understanding you correctly, your IAT's were appx 170+ at cruising, AND you still ran a small pulley (56mm?) on the blower, coupled with a 168 on the bottom AND decided to do a 200kph pass? If this is correct, you must have been charging 18+ psi and hitting IAT's in the 250's+easily. Is this correct? I'm surprised you didn't melt the whole thing.
Something is wrong with your cooling if you are cruising at 170F+: air in system? (hard to have with trunk tank) poor circulation/pump? HE that is inadequate? What's the temps of your water in the tank? FYI: I've moved my air filter forward as far as possible, touching the stock hole/inlet where the tubes connect. I've logged very little difference/benefit from this. More to come.
AJM, if I'm understanding you correctly, your IAT's were appx 170+ at cruising, AND you still ran a small pulley (56mm?) on the blower, coupled with a 168 on the bottom AND decided to do a 200kph pass? If this is correct, you must have been charging 18+ psi and hitting IAT's in the 250's+easily. Is this correct? I'm surprised you didn't melt the whole thing.
Something is wrong with your cooling if you are cruising at 170F+: air in system? (hard to have with trunk tank) poor circulation/pump? HE that is inadequate? What's the temps of your water in the tank? FYI: I've moved my air filter forward as far as possible, touching the stock hole/inlet where the tubes connect. I've logged very little difference/benefit from this. More to come.
I'm going to move the air filter forward, for what that's worth but don't expect this to resolve the problem. My IC pump was near new and the sensor was working just fine. The flow of water into the trunk tank was so strong that we began wondering whether the rate of circulation through the system was too aggressive to allow for sufficient time in the intercooler Anyway, I'll tread with much more trepidation next time around
I was running the pulley combo mentioned by you. Boost topped out at 17psi. Bear in mind that I'm 5500 feet above sea level.
#89
RedBull=no harm. He's keeping it on the up-n-up. His goals are obviously different than mine.
6201, no dyno yet. I will as soon as I get everything the way I want it enough to put the "regular" pulley on it.
ajm, hind-sight is always 20/20. Log in small increments and creep up on it. You'll see problems arise on a short 2nd-3rd pull up to about 5200-5500 RPMs. With running the larger pulley on the bottom, you're automatically "out of range" for the Weistec tune. They specifically say in their instructions to be sure stock pulley is on.
When's the last time you changed your fuel-filter? Mine was not yet at the AMG recommended service interval, but changing it made a recordable difference in my AFR's! DO IT NOW, IF YOU HAVEN'T!!
6201, no dyno yet. I will as soon as I get everything the way I want it enough to put the "regular" pulley on it.
ajm, hind-sight is always 20/20. Log in small increments and creep up on it. You'll see problems arise on a short 2nd-3rd pull up to about 5200-5500 RPMs. With running the larger pulley on the bottom, you're automatically "out of range" for the Weistec tune. They specifically say in their instructions to be sure stock pulley is on.
When's the last time you changed your fuel-filter? Mine was not yet at the AMG recommended service interval, but changing it made a recordable difference in my AFR's! DO IT NOW, IF YOU HAVEN'T!!
#90
RedBull=no harm. He's keeping it on the up-n-up. His goals are obviously different than mine.
6201, no dyno yet. I will as soon as I get everything the way I want it enough to put the "regular" pulley on it.
ajm, hind-sight is always 20/20. Log in small increments and creep up on it. You'll see problems arise on a short 2nd-3rd pull up to about 5200-5500 RPMs. With running the larger pulley on the bottom, you're automatically "out of range" for the Weistec tune. They specifically say in their instructions to be sure stock pulley is on.
When's the last time you changed your fuel-filter? Mine was not yet at the AMG recommended service interval, but changing it made a recordable difference in my AFR's! DO IT NOW, IF YOU HAVEN'T!!
6201, no dyno yet. I will as soon as I get everything the way I want it enough to put the "regular" pulley on it.
ajm, hind-sight is always 20/20. Log in small increments and creep up on it. You'll see problems arise on a short 2nd-3rd pull up to about 5200-5500 RPMs. With running the larger pulley on the bottom, you're automatically "out of range" for the Weistec tune. They specifically say in their instructions to be sure stock pulley is on.
When's the last time you changed your fuel-filter? Mine was not yet at the AMG recommended service interval, but changing it made a recordable difference in my AFR's! DO IT NOW, IF YOU HAVEN'T!!
#91
I don't know much about tuning for high-altitudes, but I'd assume more boost=more heat, no matter. I'm puzzled at how your cruising temps got so high. What kinda HE you have? Where is it? What size lines you running to/from? How are they routed? How's the pump wired/activated?
I wanted to start conservative and work up, and am making little steps--one at a time. I'm largely happy with where I am now, but since I've left quite a bit still on the table, I have more work to do.
Even if your service-records show that the filter/assembly was replaced, check it out. It will be quite easy to see as the clear plastic tubes turn brown with age. After seeing what mine looked like at 50K miles, I'll do it at half the recommended interval, at least.
I wanted to start conservative and work up, and am making little steps--one at a time. I'm largely happy with where I am now, but since I've left quite a bit still on the table, I have more work to do.
Even if your service-records show that the filter/assembly was replaced, check it out. It will be quite easy to see as the clear plastic tubes turn brown with age. After seeing what mine looked like at 50K miles, I'll do it at half the recommended interval, at least.
#92
I don't understand why you're always getting on his case . What's bad about him continuing to work on cooling? In a way, he's being a guinea for many folks interested in getting the Weistec and figuring out the best way to cool down that setup substantially.
Sometimes it's better to just read and learn than post. My .02.
Sometimes it's better to just read and learn than post. My .02.
I'm just wondering why anyone, being the guinea, would only post what they felt you or a vendor wants to hear. Be honest and post up what's really happening be it good or bad. And not have to worry about "someone" getting upset.
And maybe you should take a closer look at my sig pic. I'm playing guinea pig also. I'm just waiting for it to be complete and I will post everything (good AND bad).
Think about it. Both Paul and I are waaaay outside the box. And not limited to it!
#93
I don't know much about tuning for high-altitudes, but I'd assume more boost=more heat, no matter. I'm puzzled at how your cruising temps got so high. What kinda HE you have? Where is it? What size lines you running to/from? How are they routed? How's the pump wired/activated?
I wanted to start conservative and work up, and am making little steps--one at a time. I'm largely happy with where I am now, but since I've left quite a bit still on the table, I have more work to do.
Even if your service-records show that the filter/assembly was replaced, check it out. It will be quite easy to see as the clear plastic tubes turn brown with age. After seeing what mine looked like at 50K miles, I'll do it at half the recommended interval, at least.
I wanted to start conservative and work up, and am making little steps--one at a time. I'm largely happy with where I am now, but since I've left quite a bit still on the table, I have more work to do.
Even if your service-records show that the filter/assembly was replaced, check it out. It will be quite easy to see as the clear plastic tubes turn brown with age. After seeing what mine looked like at 50K miles, I'll do it at half the recommended interval, at least.
Ultimately (and when the motor popped), we had the plumbing set up and routed exactly as recommended so the problem lurks elsewhere I'm guessing. I also don't know whether tuning for high altitude requires specific adaptations but, if so, I must assume that this will have been factored in by Weistec. I'll certainly replace the fuel filter
#94
What difference did you see on AFR's and was that at WOT or during closed loop cruising?
#96
I'm not on his case.
I'm just wondering why anyone, being the guinea, would only post what they felt you or a vendor wants to hear. Be honest and post up what's really happening be it good or bad. And not have to worry about "someone" getting upset.
And maybe you should take a closer look at my sig pic. I'm playing guinea pig also. I'm just waiting for it to be complete and I will post everything (good AND bad).
Think about it. Both Paul and I are waaaay outside the box. And not limited to it!
I'm just wondering why anyone, being the guinea, would only post what they felt you or a vendor wants to hear. Be honest and post up what's really happening be it good or bad. And not have to worry about "someone" getting upset.
And maybe you should take a closer look at my sig pic. I'm playing guinea pig also. I'm just waiting for it to be complete and I will post everything (good AND bad).
Think about it. Both Paul and I are waaaay outside the box. And not limited to it!
#97
#99
RBJ has NOW gone too far--suggesting that I am patronizing Weistec. Quite to the contrary. All my posts have been accurate and factual since I don't care to blast anyone before I have all of the data. Emotion doesn't tune a car, facts do.
I'm as forthcoming as the data I have, and the time i have to post. The facts remain, as I have posted them: stock cooling is not adequate. According to my findings and logging, a trunk tank is adequate and seems similar to stock blower with trunk tank. (this doesn't mean you can do 2 mile WOT blasts and expect IAT's to be safe...I've seen stock-blowers reported at over 200F at WOT, but not where *I* want to be) I wanted to go further with cooling and am experimenting with meth and intend to use even more.
From what I can tell, most S/C'd cars suffer the same fate, and like ALL other cars I've messed with, the bigger you go, the more you amplify the issue(s). I did NOT know all of this would be required when I begun. But, now it's either put-up or shut-up. Since the car still runs (quite well, I might add) I guess it's worth the time/effort.
I'll make this public disclaimer: If you plan to just bolt it on and make a 1-mile WOT pass, forget it.
I'm as forthcoming as the data I have, and the time i have to post. The facts remain, as I have posted them: stock cooling is not adequate. According to my findings and logging, a trunk tank is adequate and seems similar to stock blower with trunk tank. (this doesn't mean you can do 2 mile WOT blasts and expect IAT's to be safe...I've seen stock-blowers reported at over 200F at WOT, but not where *I* want to be) I wanted to go further with cooling and am experimenting with meth and intend to use even more.
From what I can tell, most S/C'd cars suffer the same fate, and like ALL other cars I've messed with, the bigger you go, the more you amplify the issue(s). I did NOT know all of this would be required when I begun. But, now it's either put-up or shut-up. Since the car still runs (quite well, I might add) I guess it's worth the time/effort.
I'll make this public disclaimer: If you plan to just bolt it on and make a 1-mile WOT pass, forget it.
#100
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,596
Likes: 5
From: Jacksonville, FL
05 White Pano E55, Cadillac CTS-V
That right there seems to be the problem. The Weistec seems to be having issues for everyone. It looks nice and quality but you can't just bolt on, load tune and go, which is what you SHOULD be doing after spending 9 grand. Seems like instead everyone us chasing problems with the intake temps it the throttle body or the air/fuel or this or that.