From my understanding, they send you a cable and then you download your ECU file and send it to them? Do they remote tune it as if it's on a dyno with air/fuel etc.?

I have read people are picking up 40HP/50TQ to the wheels from just a TUNE ONLY!



Any help? Thank you!

 

believe th remote cable is for your laptop to connect to the OBD port to your car. They "take over" your laptop and download the tune to your car. Make sure you have a charger to charger your battery. Dont want it to cause problems in the middle of the download to the ecu.

 

So it just an 'off the shelf tune' or considered like a dyno tune because they have the exact information from your ECU?

I am curious because I hear you don't gain as much from a box tune/off the shelf as you do from a true dyno tune...but this sounds like they are getting all the information they need to pinpoint tuning from the ECU.


Am I missing something?

 

It's a box tune, you'd need to dyno your car with the box tune and send back the information to get a dyno tune.

 

And I think EC charges only like $35 to re-tune (e.g. dyno tune the ECU after running it with the box tune)...correct? Once you buy the initial tune from them ...

You really can't beat Jerry and EC. They seem to be Kleemann and Renntech caliber as far as rep goes and their customer service is remarkable while prices are VERY reasonable considering other options (Kleemann & RT).

 

Do you guys think that EC's box tune and ultimately, their dyno tune is safe?

I don't want to risk is blowing up my motor because of starvation, timing, knock etc!

(For what it's worth, I do not plan to upgrade the crank pulley or add any other mods other than a HE and Bosch pump).

 

Yes both are very safe, Jerry probably cares more about not blowing up your motor then you do!

 

Yea, the last thing you should worry about is blowing up your motor with EC's tune.

And since you're not adding boost/power, you'll be more than fine with their dyno tune setup once you're done.


Also, you should just go to a reputable dyno shop, strap her down, get all your numbers, AFs etc. and then contact EC. Getting a box tune, then dyno, then sending to them seems like overkill, no?

 

you will be fine...we have tuned over 6000 cars to date...(all platforms)

If we can handle this below the 55 isn't a problem.

 

loungn14-

How much for a dyno tune only? I am looking to get a tune only car and curious what sort of numbers you guys are achieving on an otherwise stock car running 93 octane?

Thank you!

 

EC box tune safe? Yes, i feel it bit "too safe". I always get on the dyno everytimes they come to the bay. No, it's not a dyno tune until you put it on a dyno to tune lol :d

 

You can easily disconnect the radiator fan when flashing the ecu to help with the battery drain issue. It's just one big connector near the upper left part of the fan (as you face it). Just don't forget to reconnect it when finished.

 

Why not use their new datalog feature after the box tune is uploaded? I would think street data logging would be even more accurate than a dyno tune.

 

Pretty sure this datalog software uses the narrowband O2s for AFR.

 

Yeah, you don't want to be trying to dial in fueling off narrowband o2 readings from a datalog. Well unless you have a wideband o2 sensor installed in the car and are using logs from that, but the Euroflash data logging software will be using the stock narrowband sensors.

The box tune will be rich which is safe for sure. My box tune was running in the 10s and after I got on the dyno and sent Jerry the dyno graph with air/fuel readout from the dyno (wideband o2 sensor) he made an adjustment and put the car at mid to upper 11s and a nice chunk of power was gained.

 

How much did you gain from the box tune?

Then dyno tune after he adjusted AF?

 

I thought the whole purpose of EC's datalog feature was to fine tune the box tune? Jerry had mentioned in the original thread something about using the factory O2 readings for this. Most of us do not have the ability to datalog with widebands.

 

It was a box tune for a supercharger pulley (along with headers and 80mm throttle body) after I switched to the supercharger pulley from a 180 crank pulley. So technically I lost power since I now run less boost so the car's overall power is less.

But the box tune had me run running all the way down to 10.0:1 air/fuel and had the car only making 446whp and then after the fuel adjustment it put the car up in the mid 470s on the next pull and then 1 minute later another pull was done with no changes and it went up to 479.9whp

On stock cars with just a box tune though they generally see over 30whp increase at minimum and running it on the dyno and adjusting the fuel after seeing a readout can pick up a little more.

 

Well you can get it closer in the ball park, just not as precise as if you had a wideband sensor. Like if he sees the car showing 10:1 then he can take out some fuel to get it in the 11s, it may just not be perfectly 11.8 for example but somewhere in the 11s instead.

If you do some searching on the internet about narrowband o2 sensors you can find how they have a small voltage range (0 to 1 vs 0-5 of a wideband) so there is abrupt changes in lambda readings with voltage change so it is hard to see a precise measurement using them.

 

Thanks for the info David

 

You will be plenty safe until you have added enough mods to get close to 500 HP at the wheels. that is when it becomes time to consider larger injectors and rails. By the way, if you are interested in a larger counter pulley, you should really consider the newer smaller SC pulleys. They have many advantages over the larger crank pulley.