Caliper upgrades ? Are there ?
#26
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96 and 08 911 turbos
what specifically are you unhappy with? The car will easily lock up the tires, so stopping power is kinda a moot point. The brakes are big and 8 piston fixed calipers are plenty.
You can go to a different pad and a better fluid, but do you have a problem with the feel, the stopping distance (get better tires), or the appearance?
You can go to a different pad and a better fluid, but do you have a problem with the feel, the stopping distance (get better tires), or the appearance?
#27
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Agreed. You want more pedal feel: get braided lines, new fluid/flush and be SURE all the air is out. You want less fade after repeated stops, do the same but add a racing pad. But be damned sure you know what you're doing because most racing pads require getting the hot before maximum stopping. (and you aren't getting close with regular street driving).
Those OE brakes are nothing to sneeze at...for sure.
(if you are road-racing, etc. then swapping them out would be prudent just from a cost-perspective. The OE parts are STUPID in price compared to other options. MoveIt makes some sweet brake swap kits).
Those OE brakes are nothing to sneeze at...for sure.
(if you are road-racing, etc. then swapping them out would be prudent just from a cost-perspective. The OE parts are STUPID in price compared to other options. MoveIt makes some sweet brake swap kits).
#28
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IMO stainless brake lines and some Castrol SRF. Also toss a nice set of pads into the mix, like Porterfield.
Night and day differences in terms of bite and fade resistance. These brakes (for 98% of people are more than adequate).
Night and day differences in terms of bite and fade resistance. These brakes (for 98% of people are more than adequate).
#29
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what specifically are you unhappy with? The car will easily lock up the tires, so stopping power is kinda a moot point. The brakes are big and 8 piston fixed calipers are plenty.
You can go to a different pad and a better fluid, but do you have a problem with the feel, the stopping distance (get better tires), or the appearance?
You can go to a different pad and a better fluid, but do you have a problem with the feel, the stopping distance (get better tires), or the appearance?
I just got new 18 wheels and I understand now spacers or no spacers anything bigger just won't fit cuz of the size of the wheels.
Only option is left finding ceramic rotors or something better than OEM cuz anything drastically better than OEM I'd need to change wheels again
You guys talk about brake fluid in almost all the posts , like for real brake fluid is such a big thing ? really ? Not mocking , it just never occurred to me
#30
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65 Chevelle Wagon w/ C5 frame, 08 ML63, 04 S600, 04 E55,(sold) 00 ML55,(sold) 98 C43-55K Swap
Also, has anyone used girodisc pads/rotors before? I think I'm going to use there pads/rotors when I put on s55 calipers on my 600. The price is reasonable for 2 piece rotors too.
http://www.girodisc.com/
#31
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How do you guys always get so off track? He asked about BRAKE CALIPERS - and.. are there upgrades?
Now, anyone who wants to do this is free to do so, but it's a waste of money, not needed, and would be the last thing I would do to my car, but I am "practical"
Most people do BB Kits based on brakes similar to what we have stock. The picture I posted of the 12 POT would be a significant upgrade.
Brake lines- meh
Rotors, I would get them from Serge
Oh wait, I went off topic. Damn. Now the real question: Peperoni, or Peperoni and Sausage?
Now, anyone who wants to do this is free to do so, but it's a waste of money, not needed, and would be the last thing I would do to my car, but I am "practical"
Most people do BB Kits based on brakes similar to what we have stock. The picture I posted of the 12 POT would be a significant upgrade.
Brake lines- meh
Rotors, I would get them from Serge
Oh wait, I went off topic. Damn. Now the real question: Peperoni, or Peperoni and Sausage?
#32
My first track event after my new brakes I picked up 3.6 seconds over my best time . But unless you do any track work the standard set up takes some beating , they are not great on the roads were I live as there is no dual carriage ways to over take on , so the brakes tend to get a lot more heavy and consistant use .
Also if I had not got mine so cheap (£1700 and got £1000 for my old set up) I would not have gone to the expense of doing it . I was shocked at how quickly the standard set up over heated , one side more so than the other . I put it down to the amount of disk that is coverd by the caliper using double pads and because the disks are not handed . The internal cooling veins on one side face forward not allowing air to flow from the middle of the disk .
Also if I had not got mine so cheap (£1700 and got £1000 for my old set up) I would not have gone to the expense of doing it . I was shocked at how quickly the standard set up over heated , one side more so than the other . I put it down to the amount of disk that is coverd by the caliper using double pads and because the disks are not handed . The internal cooling veins on one side face forward not allowing air to flow from the middle of the disk .
Last edited by marc.l; 07-07-2013 at 06:56 PM.
#33
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I won't be doing the installation myself or the flush myself. I'll take it to an indy shop.
I don't know how they will bleed the system without Star though.
I asked for advice and all of you gave me good suggestions. I have never tracked my car and if I do it'll be for lapping not 1/4. I however do high speed runs (rarely) like 0-160-170 mph and then slowing down.
I need Rotors , my pads have over 75% life on them. So I'm looking for ceramic rotors which won't sound like a truck stopping.
One question , the brake light on comes on when the pads are out of life right ? not when the rotors are done ? So I won't need new sensors with Rotors replacement righ t?
I don't know how they will bleed the system without Star though.
I asked for advice and all of you gave me good suggestions. I have never tracked my car and if I do it'll be for lapping not 1/4. I however do high speed runs (rarely) like 0-160-170 mph and then slowing down.
I need Rotors , my pads have over 75% life on them. So I'm looking for ceramic rotors which won't sound like a truck stopping.
One question , the brake light on comes on when the pads are out of life right ? not when the rotors are done ? So I won't need new sensors with Rotors replacement righ t?
#34
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65 Chevelle Wagon w/ C5 frame, 08 ML63, 04 S600, 04 E55,(sold) 00 ML55,(sold) 98 C43-55K Swap
I don't know how they will bleed the system without Star though.
I asked for advice and all of you gave me good suggestions. I have never tracked my car and if I do it'll be for lapping not 1/4. I however do high speed runs (rarely) like 0-160-170 mph and then slowing down.
I need Rotors , my pads have over 75% life on them. So I'm looking for ceramic rotors which won't sound like a truck stopping.
Ceramic pads or rotors? Pads $100, rotors $10,000. I assume you mean pads and you will have far more issues with stopping from speed. No dust= no braking. Ceramic pads will crack and overheat your rotors if your stopping from 150mph. You need metallic pads if your driving fast.
#35
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96 and 08 911 turbos
I need new rotors but I was going over the possibility of changing calipers to bigger ones for longevity.
I just got new 18 wheels and I understand now spacers or no spacers anything bigger just won't fit cuz of the size of the wheels.
Only option is left finding ceramic rotors or something better than OEM cuz anything drastically better than OEM I'd need to change wheels again
You guys talk about brake fluid in almost all the posts , like for real brake fluid is such a big thing ? really ? Not mocking , it just never occurred to me
I just got new 18 wheels and I understand now spacers or no spacers anything bigger just won't fit cuz of the size of the wheels.
Only option is left finding ceramic rotors or something better than OEM cuz anything drastically better than OEM I'd need to change wheels again
You guys talk about brake fluid in almost all the posts , like for real brake fluid is such a big thing ? really ? Not mocking , it just never occurred to me
what problem are you trying to rectify?
#36
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Yeah if the light hasn't come on, you haven't trashed the sensor. They're a one time use stuck into a cavity in the pad.
I won't be doing the installation myself or the flush myself. I'll take it to an indy shop.
I don't know how they will bleed the system without Star though.
I asked for advice and all of you gave me good suggestions. I have never tracked my car and if I do it'll be for lapping not 1/4. I however do high speed runs (rarely) like 0-160-170 mph and then slowing down.
I need Rotors , my pads have over 75% life on them. So I'm looking for ceramic rotors which won't sound like a truck stopping.
One question , the brake light on comes on when the pads are out of life right ? not when the rotors are done ? So I won't need new sensors with Rotors replacement righ t?
I don't know how they will bleed the system without Star though.
I asked for advice and all of you gave me good suggestions. I have never tracked my car and if I do it'll be for lapping not 1/4. I however do high speed runs (rarely) like 0-160-170 mph and then slowing down.
I need Rotors , my pads have over 75% life on them. So I'm looking for ceramic rotors which won't sound like a truck stopping.
One question , the brake light on comes on when the pads are out of life right ? not when the rotors are done ? So I won't need new sensors with Rotors replacement righ t?
#37
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Then I learned that Rotors can't be changed to a bigger size on my car cuz of the wheel size being 18
Then I learned that getting the brake fluid flushed is equally important as pads changing and all.
Then I learned that Ceramic Rotors alone would cost twice the cost of calipers.
Then I learned that metallic pads are better than ceramic even though Ceramic Rotors cost more than metallic *still head scratching about this*
Now I know for sure that the pads don't need changing cuz the "Brake light" isn't on yet.
So now where I stand is that I need recommendation on Rotors that are better than OEM but can also be fit in 18 inch wheels ? For example -R1 racing premium line and what not ?
Also, are the brake pads supposed to be changed along with Rotors even if they aren't worn out ?
Also, thank you all for being so patient and helpful in my learning endeavour
#39
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00 C200 & 00 C55 & 06 SLK55
you will definitely save some weight,
*AMG "C/CL/E/S/SL/63":-
6 pots caliper with pads = (6.9kg), Rotor = (12.9kg) &
P31 Rotor = (10.2kg), & B07 Rotor 390mm = (7.7kg),
SLR Rotor 370mm = (6.5kg)
*AMG "55sK":-
8 pots caliper with pads = (7.1kg), Rotor = (15.2kg)
* not prefered to go with 390mm,, 360mm-370mm are good choice to go...
ZAYED,,
#40
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Sure, "C/CL/E/S/SL/63" brakes with fit E55,, and if you will go with any of them,
you will definitely save some weight,
*AMG "C/CL/E/S/SL/63":-
6 pots caliper with pads = (6.9kg), Rotor = (12.9kg) &
P31 Rotor = (10.2kg), & B07 Rotor 390mm = (7.7kg),
SLR Rotor 370mm = (6.5kg)
*AMG "55sK":-
8 pots caliper with pads = (7.1kg), Rotor = (15.2kg)
* not prefered to go with 390mm,, 360mm-370mm are good choice to go...
ZAYED,,
you will definitely save some weight,
*AMG "C/CL/E/S/SL/63":-
6 pots caliper with pads = (6.9kg), Rotor = (12.9kg) &
P31 Rotor = (10.2kg), & B07 Rotor 390mm = (7.7kg),
SLR Rotor 370mm = (6.5kg)
*AMG "55sK":-
8 pots caliper with pads = (7.1kg), Rotor = (15.2kg)
* not prefered to go with 390mm,, 360mm-370mm are good choice to go...
ZAYED,,