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Rotors Keep Warping?!?!

Old 07-22-2013, 10:28 AM
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CLS550 4Matic, C43, E350, ML350
Rotors Keep Warping?!?!

So I swapped out my OEM rotors for Zimmerman rotors with new Akebono pads. First set of rotors warpped within days with new pads. I had them switched out by Amazon for replacements. Kept my existing pads as they are still new and put the new Zimmerman rotors on again. First few days they felt great but now when I hit my brakes, the car shakes. Should I replace the rotors again but get brand new pads again also? I hear a lot of BMW guys running Zimmerman rotors with Akebono pads but no idea what is wrong with mine
Old 07-22-2013, 10:48 AM
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00 C200 & 00 C55 & 06 SLK55
Ravi,

Better if you can measure the Rotors, & the pads as well, they could be remanufactured or something,

and also investigate the vent room & the drilled holes careFULLY, if there are some kind of crack....

ZAYED,,
Old 07-22-2013, 10:57 AM
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I just told Amazon to send me all new goods and they are as long they get the damaged ones back again so let's try ONE MORE TIME.

I did paint the calipers while on the car so maybe that could be the culprit?
Old 07-22-2013, 11:06 AM
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I did new OEM rotors with new Akebono pads, and I have had no problems? I'm wondering about the Zimmerman rotors? keep us posted.
Old 07-22-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by djrabbi
I did paint the calipers while on the car so maybe that could be the culprit?
Agreed,, thick paint or thick primer could interrupt the surface between the pistons.....

ZAYED,,
Old 07-22-2013, 11:23 AM
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So pistons might be clogged? Anyways my rotors look like *** now anyways so def need to change them.
Old 07-22-2013, 11:56 AM
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Thats werid... why not oem rotors and akebono pads brahhh
Old 07-22-2013, 11:57 AM
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I would but I just paid like $250 for these and no question asked return policy from Amazon.
Old 07-22-2013, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by djrabbi
So pistons might be clogged? Anyways my rotors look like *** now anyways so def need to change them.
I don’t think pistons clogged,

After receiving the new Rotors & Pads, need to see the area between the pistons, if there any kind trammels or something....

ZAYED,,
Old 07-22-2013, 12:01 PM
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I replaced them all oem new and than re freshend up my calipers and I have no issues. Did you spray the calipers while off the car?
Old 07-22-2013, 01:26 PM
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Brake pads are too hard and causing higher rotor temps because the friction coefficient is higher than with softer pads although dusty give better grip with reduced brake pressure, so either keep on changing rotors or go to softer pads. The other possible cause could be cold water washing the car immediately after hard driving. Or material thickness and rotor mass is below that of the OEMs. I see people trying to save a few pounds on rotational mass\ but at the sacrifice of the heat sink of a good heavy rotor. Have you ever seen a 20 pound rotor on a dump truck? Mass absorbs heat slower and will handle higher temps for a longer time. If by chance you do a lot of high speed slow downs you might consider venting the rotors to the wind stream, or a few miles of normal driving without the use of severe braking will cool the rotors to live another day.
Old 07-22-2013, 01:37 PM
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Are you verifying the warped rotor by checking run-out with a dial indicator? Vibration while braking could be caused by pretty much anything in the front end. Ball joints, loose lug bolts, wheel bearings, etc. I know it's a pain in the ***, but definitely worth checking into.
Old 07-22-2013, 01:50 PM
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Well my rotors were fine before I replaced them. I got all my ball joints replaced and ****. I got Amazon to send me new everything so will swap and go from there
Old 07-22-2013, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Critter
Brake pads are too hard and causing higher rotor temps because the friction coefficient is higher than with softer pads although dusty give better grip with reduced brake pressure, so either keep on changing rotors or go to softer pads. The other possible cause could be cold water washing the car immediately after hard driving. Or material thickness and rotor mass is below that of the OEMs. I see people trying to save a few pounds on rotational mass\ but at the sacrifice of the heat sink of a good heavy rotor. Have you ever seen a 20 pound rotor on a dump truck? Mass absorbs heat slower and will handle higher temps for a longer time. If by chance you do a lot of high speed slow downs you might consider venting the rotors to the wind stream, or a few miles of normal driving without the use of severe braking will cool the rotors to live another day.
Actually Zimmerman is same weight as OEM
Old 07-22-2013, 01:59 PM
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Easy solution. Stop hitting the brakes
Old 07-22-2013, 02:29 PM
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Make sure all moving parts on the calipers are nice and clean

hit with anti seize on everything moving or sliding.
Also do a flush on the calipers since the fluid most have boiled.
Old 07-22-2013, 02:30 PM
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Yeah I am thinking doing a brake flush once everything is apart...
Old 07-23-2013, 12:49 PM
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Are you sure you are not over torquing the lug nuts. That's a known cause of rotor warp.
110 ft/pounds
Old 07-23-2013, 01:29 PM
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It was done by hand actually but I dunno **** is frustrating lol

P.S. Since these rotors rust instantly, can I just engine paint to paint the hats? I had them painted no but still shows a bit of rust or adding clear coat would be better to it?
Old 07-23-2013, 01:57 PM
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I spray painted mine with heat proof silver paint. The look good and it seems to stick.
Old 07-23-2013, 02:10 PM
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Lets start over djrabbi, what were the issues with the OEM setup- worn out-Y
Are the Zimmerman the same configuration ie, drilled, or slotted, both? do the ventilation fins on the new rotors go from outer edge and then exit near the hub, are they directional one left one right, just checking. Did you remove the cosmoline from the new rotors with a cleaner such as intake air cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Did you then break in the new setup with long slow stops or did you just see how good it would stop immediately. Did you notice any blueing of the rotor which would signify excess heat? If you have access to a laser thermometer see what the rotors temp runs after normal driving stop and starts. Are the brakes really hot after normal driving whereas you can smell the brakes? Lastly make sure there is no kinking of the brake lines which would not allow the reduction of brake pressure when you let off the brakes. Lastly go back to OEM rotors and try again with the new pads, but I would think the pads are the issue.
Old 07-23-2013, 02:13 PM
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What Akebono set have you got?
Old 07-23-2013, 02:18 PM
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OEM rotors were done so thought I would take a chance on Zimmerman.

They are OE replacement according to Amazon, which are drilled. I am using Akebono EUR983, which bite nicely after a while. There is some vibration when brakes are applied but my set before that was terrible so I just assume it will get just as bad.
Old 07-23-2013, 02:21 PM
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Ohhh rotors look like they have "hot spots" on them.

Old 07-23-2013, 02:47 PM
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Did you also do the rear brakes the same Zimm and Ake?

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