Ok I bought one of the 82MM Eurocharge TB kits.
And I keep getting that darn pressure sensor fault code in Star.
Its the classic thing its only every once in awhile at highway speed of 70 to 80 mph.
I checked for leaks I could not find any I keep thinking about replacing the switch but everyone that has done that keeps the problem. If its a vacuum leak why is it only at highway speed and at 70 to 80 MPH?
Also the TB seems to open and shut hard during idle I can hear it click every so often.
I have SDS is there a way to check TPS % in there?

 

Did you run the Star test on the TB? It's very good.

I had the same problem and SWORE it was something wrong with the tune or TB and it turned out to be a vacuum leak. Did you spray some brake cleaner around to see if idle changes?

 

In DAS
ECU > Actual Values > you will see it

 

I had that issue really bad. Found a big leak and plugged it. Car ran much better, but would still to a slight hiccup and then STFT would jump up around 20%. My idle was low and my plan was to bump it up in STAR. Got it hooked up yesterday, but my idle in park and in gear was good, TPS showing 2.0-2.4%. It seems the problem has finally went away on its own. In the past, I did do the manual TB reset and a STAR reset.

How did you check for leaks? I did it by letting the car idle and spraying brake cleaner around anywhere a leak could happen. Found one by spraying down below the TB on the driver's side. Ended up having a disconnected hose down there (really hard to see) and then that little evap system hose going under the driver's side airbox was pinched/kinked. That one was intermittently setting off the check gas cap warning.


And just posting to say how happy I am about something, but I finally got that damned "don't forget your key that is already in your pocket" chime.

 

Where is that? It drives me NUTZ!!

 

did you figure out ROW settings

 

You have to set "Keyless Go" to not fitted or not installed. Keyless go will still work. I have also heard that in the central gateway, putting the region to RoW (rest of world) wil get rid of the chime. We did this after the first way and got rid of the side marker light error (bumper swap!) and also allows the foglights to be on with the high beams.

The stickied STAR thread has some good info, the problem is that there was way too much talk and worthless posts. I had to go in several hundred posts deep to find what I needed. We need someone like Toadster to go through and amass all the good data.

 

I think to check for leaks, using an electrical contact cleaner from "CRC" or "Sonax", is better & safer than brake cleaner isn’t..??



ZAYED,,

 

Sure did

 

I'm installing my 82mm this weekend, and hoping for no problems.

 

I bought a CTS-V and hoping for no problems either!

p.s. Still got ol' betsy though!

 

Im a master mercedes tech and did the work myself. I still get the hicup from time to time. My e55 is a late 05. I think the stock tune has allot to do with it. I have screwed with it over and over. My car runs great most of the time...im living with it for now. Same exact symptom as yours.

 

Did mine about 2-3 weeks ago and had 0 problems...no CEL, nothing. I didn't even retune, just drove it easy for about 100 miles. I admit I havent done a full out blast yet though!

 

Good to hear, I've got mine apart and Eurocharged emailed the tune, so I will know how it does on Monday.

 

Well its not and exact thing but most of the people that I have talked to that have this problem only get the light when driving between 75 MPH and 80 MPH and up an incline, some have said high humidity is also there.
I have gone for weeks and hundreds of miles with out a light then bam there it is.
I hate CELs I am almost ready to take it a part again or go down to an 80mm.

 

Got my oem 82mm installed, flashed up Eurocharged latest tune, hit the road for some testing, all is well, the tune feels nice and smooth,broke the tires loose at 45, big smile on my face! Tried 75mph tip-in, no issues so far. Idle was raised to max and all is well so far. ESP off is downright scary, huge smokey burnouts at half throttle, the car is ridiculous now at 91F outside! Winter is gonna be redonkulous for sure. Got a wideband on order just to keep an eye on things.

 

 

I used the stock y-pipe 80mm from 2007-2008 SL55, and the seal is from the 273 (550) engine MAF elbow, which I had to grind down slightly to fit, once the 80mm y-pipe seal and bezel were removed (they snap out). The upper retaining clip with a little grinding now clips onto the TB, and the seal is a snug fit, not allowing any "dirty" air to leak in. The bottom clip just hangs out in space, but everything seems to be staying in place just fine.

The S/C inlet is also the 80mm version which I had material welded, drilled/tapped and machined. I also ground down the throttle shaft.

I transfered the rubber boot from the stock TB, which required a little bit of trimming to fit- I suspect it's there to reduce heatsoak. Thinking about it, the TB position is based off resistance on the circuit board- which changes of course with heat- excess heat, which our cars have plenty under the hood- may cause issues for some, just a theory anyways.

I like everything to look stock, it goes along with the sleeper theme

I've only put 20 miles on it, so it's really too soon to give this the all-clear.. But some other theories why some have problems, let alone the multiple chances to introduce a vacuum leak when doing this job, when I bought the car last summer, when it was stock, I flashed the latest version software to the ECU from MB...As these cars age, and problems show up throughout the fleet, MB changes all kinds of things in the ECU. They won't tell us what they change. Maybe whatever threshold is causing the problems has been corrected,changed, or made less sensitive by MB. Only way to prove it...Whoever is having issues, needs the dealer to flash the newest S/W into their ECU, then have their tuner reflash for the mods. Again, just a theory...Heatsoak without the rubber boot is another one, although less likely I think.

 

Maybe a solution is that some cars need a bigger filter / more CFM once they install the bigger 82TB?

When I had my shaft grinded 80 TB, there were no issues / problem free from day one. All I had to do was the hard TB reset and that was it. With the 82 TB, I had problems (like those complained of by others). Nothing, nothing permanently solved the driviability issues of the 82 TB. When I went back to my original shaft grinded 80 TB, the same problems that I had with the 82 TB now existed when there was no problems before with the 80 TB. I thought that was weird as I never had any problems with the 80 TB. The drivability problems with putting back on my 80TB was not as often or as severe when I had the 82TB but the problems nevertheless now existsed with the 80TB when there was none before. Then only change was when I went back the 80 TB I also increased the tubing diameter of my CAI from 3 in to 4 in. Everything else was the same.

I made sure there was no vacuum leak and tried everything, hard reset and all the variations of changes with STAR. But, the problems remained. My new air filters came and after install it, all is fine now. My CAI originlly came with KN RU-3590 filter. It is 7 inches long (791.28 cfm with two of these) in front of the radiator. I had KN make me filters that were the same but 2 in longer, so a KN RU-3590 that is 9 inches (1,017.36 cfm with two of these). The result was a 22% increase in cfm. After putting on these two larger filters and increased my CFM, no problems with my 80 TB. There was no other change. I did not do a hard TB reset or anything with STAR. I just replaced the air filters. Everything is now back to normal and no problems. Car is running strong and good.

Given my experience, maybe the reason why some cars do and do not have problems with the 82 TB is some cars with the bigger TB results in a need for more CFM or a bigger filter? If I have time this weekend, I will again put back on the 82TB and see what happens. If the driviabilty problems with the 82TB no longer exist, then I will know for sure - at least with my car - that the difference maker or solution was to get a bigger filter / more CFM.

 

I have an 82mm with stock airboxes and K&N panel filters. No CELs at all.
I think the tune has A LOT to do with it.

 

I'm running the oem filters. Knock on wood, still no issues, driving easy on the way to work I couldnt even tell a difference from the stock TB. Lunch time full throttle was crazy, even In 95F heat. Power wise, I got too hard on the throttle at 30mph and the traction control shut me down as the tires began to spin, this never happened before in summer, just cold weather. I also think Jerry's new tune has something to do with it.

 

I have had my car tuned by three different companies and all three have had the same end result. I have also spoken with people that have used the same tuner and don't have the same symptoms with an 82mm.

It's a software issue there is no doubt the fact that several cars exhibit the exact same issue which can be replicated under the same conditions, the challenge is finding what the common factor is.

 

Can Jerry flash us the latest software from MB??

 

Savman. You are 100% correct. It has to do with the software that the car came with originally. All tuners have to start with the base file.

 

Donnie, do you work at a dealership? If so, humor me and reflash to the newest factory software and SCN coding. Then, reflash the tune. See if your problem goes away.