typhoon43

I searched for "pull timing" but got nothing. Now that I have my Aeroforces in I find myself constantly monitoring IAT's and Boost. I have a 180mm lower flamethrower, but I "think" the Meziere pump, larger HE, and split cooling setup are keeping it somewhat under control. It's HOT here in FL right now, so on a 94° day I'm seeing around 114° while cruising. Over the past few weeks I've noticed that when cruising it's basically a 20-22 degree offset between outside temp and IAT. Is this about right for you guys with big lowers and upgraded cooling?

And finally, at what IAT temp does the ECM start retarding timing?

Thanks

SterlingE55

If I'm not mistaken it's 120deg. Hence why cooling is so important for us folks in high heat/humidity areas. You crack the throttle and your above 120.

ArmoE55

I don't how you TX and FL etc. people deal with the humdity. I'm in the Tri-State area and it gets hot and humid, but also cools off for a few days. I'd sell this car in a heartbeat if I lived in those states and constantly felt 150HP drop in power after some full goose runs

And yea, I think I read it's 120 or 130..

shardul

iTrader: (1)

Timing is pulled in 3 stages per IATs values from what I understand

typhoon43

Holy crap, it starts at 120? On my Lightning, the ECM started pulling at 160°. Ack. Guess I won't be making any full pulls until fall in this thing.

ArmoE55

The 120/130 number is stuck in my head...I could be completely off.

Lelix

According to WIS document GF07.61-P-3008AM Section 2.4.
ME begins to retard ignition timing at Intake air temperatures over 35*Celcius(95*F) and coolant temperatures over 100*C(212*F)

I wonder if these thresholds are modified in a tune?

Robert AMG

iTrader: (1)

i have logged many stock 55K and 32k, wot, on the road and a run till fifth gear all of them stayed at 135/140F, so i don't see how a manufacture set to retard the timing below the normal temperature that it has set under wot.
i don't think the timing is retarded before 140F.

Hulk

What shardul said is correct..

It's in different stages

Starts around 120* and then starts pulling timing more aggressively as temps get higher to protect the engine

That's why cooling is very important

typhoon43

Understood, but with 90+ degree heat every damn day here in Florida I'm at 114 just driving 45 miles an hour. If I let that 180mm lower eat a bit something tells me I'm going to hit 120° with a quickness. Guess I'll just keep babying her until fall.

Does the 20-22 degrees over ambient in 90+ heat sound like the cooling system is up to snuff?

Hulk

I'm in fl as well, we need more cooling than just a regular heat exchanger
Some have a much bigger HE, or KC or some other things

Hulk

Yes 20* above amb is ok cruising..is your cooling system, split?

splinter

Good thread for summertime, eh? Yup, cooler almost always helps to trot out more ponies.
Don’t underestimate the importance of self-preservation safeguards though. :D

Dug this one out of the archives:

Style_Front

Can you expand on these stages? Another great question asked was whether custom tunes alter the threshholds of these values. These are great tidbits to know for sure. Great question OP.

Style_Front

Great find Splinter. So that is 95degrees, 113 degrees and 149 respectively.

Thats kind of crazy how soon we start dropping timing.

Hulk

I think tuners can tinker with it alittle but not much, I was at js Benz last week and talking to JR (great guy) and he was telling me his E pulls timing at 140* or so, so maybe there is some play but honestly I would not recommend it, these are safe guards to protect the engine

Style_Front

Us bigger pulley guys have our work set out for us.

typhoon43

Yes, it's split with a separate reservoir mounted up front. Just sucks to know that just leaving my work after letting it sit for 5 hours, I'm already 3.5° retarded as soon as I pull out of my parking spot. Hopefully I never see it past 149° when I'm jumping on it. Then I'd be going full retard, and we all know that

Hulk

Like I said
You can put a bigger HE, killer chiller (but IMO you got to dial it in with freon levels etc all cars are diff) and then there's meth

But truthfully the summer is bad for any supercharged engine
There's a reason why everyone races in the fall or early spring

e55amgrocket

Seems to be in 3 stages like mentioned earlier. I know my key to fast track times were staying below 120 degrees and that was with a start temp of 34-36 degrees with 24lbs of ice and a few gallons of water. In one run i could turn 24lbs of ice into luke warm water by the time i got back to the trailer. From what i've seen timing is pulled and fuel added at 120 degrees then again around 150. I've seen temps over 230 degrees and the amount of timing pulled and fuel that was dumped was kinda funny. They try to make it hard to hurt these motors.

jumph4x

Resurrecting this from the dead. First of all, some good information in here, secondly, I just did a small effort to reduce my heatsoak for drifting but this will apply to some of you doing drag things, or any other scenario where staging/idling is involved.

PieRat

Is ur radiator fan going as well in this scenario?

jumph4x

If you mean at 5 minutes, then I don't think so. If you're talking about the one where I measured temps, then I do not know to be certain.