That's how I feel wait in on you and pas to get it going.

 

Stock rod bolts suck. Rods are forged but I've seen several fail and had 2 rod company's tell me they wouldn't push them past 700hp/6500rpm for long.

ARP makes everything for the engine ill see if I can dig up part #'s.

Stock compression is 7.79 I believe I measured

Head gaskets are MLS and Cometic now can makes them and thickness can be adjusted. (sent them a set of stock ones)

 

How intrusive is rod bolt replacement?

 

I am so glad to be involved in the community at this time. I can't imagine how you guys who have owned these cars for several years feel waiting on big things to happen.

 

Come to the track rental at MIR in Nov. and I'll let you drive it.

 

ARP rod bolt part #'s:

 

What do you mean by intrusive? Once they're in, there's no issues with clearances if that's what you're asking. They're within a gram of the OEM bolts so there's no need to rebalance either.

 

Anybody done L19 headstuds?

 

I'd suspect he meant do you need to pull the rods out or can they be done by just pulling the pan

 

Have you got some handy?

Well that's a trick question its signifigantly more work to get the pan and all the associated oil pump stuff it of the way than it is to remove the rod bolts. I don't recommend it unless you're doing a full build.

 

Just a thought but there seemed to be a lot of verbage when guys were talking about switching out head bolts one at a time, now we are seeing rod bolt replacement in block, if you are going to the extent of rod bolts why not pull the slugs, do an inspect and re-ring the pistons while you are there. Definitely retorque (new) ARP rod bolts a few times as they like to stretch a bit and need torque to settle into the beams, torque to spec, wait a day, then retorque, use this sequence until no further tightening is achieved. Then check them again.

 

Those are the head stud, washer and nut part numbers I sent you not the rod bolts. I don't have that pic anymore on my phone but everything all together isn't too expensive. If your doing a build for higher boost or cylinder pressure I think it would be stupid to put stock head bolts back in personally.

 

2 EFR 6258 with internal gates. custom log manifolds to keep the turbos tight against the motor. Have the turbo compressor outlet come up the rear of the motor into 2 air water intercoolers on top of the motor like the "SLR" taking the place of the factory air box space. then coming out and going back into the throttle body with a custom y. you could even keep factory heat exchanger

you will have least amount of piping and if your trick enough you could even make it so the factory front engine cover will blend in with the intercoolers. and it will look factory..

 

I have a moderate bolt-on 55 and relatively shallow pockets so if it weren't a major overhaul I'd consider changing them. But if it involves yanking the motor or other extensive work I guess I'd leave them alone. These are the things I say that typically come back to bite me tho, lol.

 

Close

 

No way... you learn something new every day. Now I wonder where I read the 8.8:1... the 7.8 must be static and not dynamic. Knowing that, I REALLY want to put new pistons in and bump up that compression... there's a lot of power on the table there.

Just for example, on a 4.6L 4V supercharged engine, I went from 8.4:1 to 9.8:1 compression (changing only the tune to compensate), and gained around 60whp at 8psi. Imagine the 5.4L on 14psi.

 

LoL Funny post right there.... I was thinking the same and was like, is he using some new math?

 

I forgot to carry the 1

 

Just a heads up, those ARP part numbers can be purchased individually or you can buy two kits with the PN (102-4701). The kit is for a Nissan SR20 (interestingly enough) and contains qty:10 so save some money and buy two kits.