Well according to my logs,adding another ~1 qt.of water to the system and splitting it helped my recovery as well as lowered IATs overall. Obviously adding a larger tank would be better.

Rchase - there is no stock "tank" with the e55....so adding one is just adding fluid to the system, which in turn will help with IATs.

Having all the cooling mods and good headers, I see about 6-10 over ambient on average.

And if you're curious as to what happens to the power when the ECU pulls timing, look at this graph. One of these runs is not like the other. It was the one where cooling was not under control. Issue was fixed and then run again on the same day.

180mm Lower, split-cooling, Bigger HE, and CM30 pump = 20-22 degrees over ambient for me in this Florida heat.

^ Which is excellent in the hot and humid summer heat down there in FL.

My goal is to get my temps down to the ~15' over ambient in the summer months.

The winter months are going to be ... fun, to say the least Is it January yet?

You will only get IATs to be ~15* above ambient as a STARTING POINT (just want to clarify), unless of course you have a killer chiller (then your IATs will start below ambient and probably not cross 130* - depending on your setup)....

Yes, sorry for the wording, I meant as starting point.

I am undecided on the killer chiller and likely won't be needing it.

I am just not sure I will need it for my driving habits (e.g. I don't drag race, do multiple back to back runs and so on) since I only do a few spirited runs here and there when I have the room and there's no traffic, or the occasional 0-80 sprint from an onramp. That's about it.

I wish this was true. Just did some runs today and I started at 62 IAT and ended up at 177 on a 0-110ish run in Mexico. Dropped down very quickly and it was after a couple other big runs. I had another run where I went from around 40 to 130 and IATs went from 60 to 128 then back down super quick. I do have a 185 mm pulley making a lot of heat but still I expected a little better. Sometimes I can go for quick WOTs bursts and it barely goes up at all though which is pretty cool. Going up a windy mountain road today I did lots of short WOT bursts and IAts just stayed in the 65-80 range which was impressive. They quickly dropped back down to 60-65 between every time I punched it.

Does anyone know if this app will work with an obd2 cable linked directly to my iPhone?

I am not positive TORQUE is an App for iphones as well ... maybe someone with an iphone can chime in?

I am using the KIWI Bluetooth from PLX Devices and the Android TORQUE app and I am very happy with the logging and the features it offers, namely the boost, IATs, timing advance, and coolant temp.

Iphone you need a wifi not Bluetooth for the OB2. You can get them for about $20-25 on Amazon and Ebay. I phone has a couple good apps for about $5 that get good reviews. I also use Torque . Great app for this purpose.

V12TT's see ~50-60 over ambient while just cruising, before even starting a hard pull.

You guys should feel lucky.

+1
on my v12TT they actually start to drop with you start the pull and then start climbing again

I did see the torque app for iPhone, and I've been curious to see what my boost and timing reads. Looks like I'll be searching for a obd2 wifi plug tonight!

You really should be logging your air-fuel mixture to determine if you are running too lean or too rich and will need a wideband. The two leading contenders are Zeitronix and Innovate and you will be able to log everything you want and more....

TORQUE on Android logs AF and ratios as well. However, only in the paid verion ($4.95). WELL worth the few bucks, especially for the precautionary safety measures of monitoring the vehicle.

Not unless you have a wideband....if you are getting a value it is narrowband and not at all reliable for tuning purposes (sorry)....

Half the people using these maps aren't tuning daily/often. We just want to make sure we are in the safe area. Not everyone is a hardcore logger.

Sorry, but if you modify your car and are not using a wideband to log your AFR, then you are really risking your motor. The narrowband cannot be used to tune a car. At a minimum if you don't want to invest in a wideband, put your car on a dyno that has a wideband and run it through the gears to make sure you are safe.

Does TORQUE have a wideband option? I haven't gotten that far haha.

It might have one.

Do you guys have a screenshot of what it looks like?

I hear you.

How does my AF look on this dyno run?

Very nice

Sorry, that wasn't my dyno I am NOT making 605rwhp. I linked Ahmad's car by accident


Mine is below...

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-tune-only.jpg

Well the new graph you posted is NOT good and you are running way too rich....You should check your IATs on that run, make sure your IC pump is working, and adjust your tune accordingly....Good luck

I asked for a conservative tune, maybe that's why it's rich?. My IATs are actually spot on and my IC pump is working properly as well.

Any other potential ideas why it's so off? There something in the tailpipe, maybe those aren't the most accurate readings?