Just started data logging...fun stuff! What IATs are you guys seeing?
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Simply splitting the HE/IC from the engine cooling with a small reservoir IE BMW power steering tank will not provide any improvement. The factory design incorporates a simple "T" fitting. There is no way any circulation from the heated engine coolant can occur. This is why there is a bleeder nipple on the IC coolant line. In theory, the increase in pressure in the system should increase the heat transfer capacity of the coolant.
The addition of any type of chill water system to increase the temperature differential at the IC will definitely help. The addition of only a HE with greater BTU capacity will help recovery times and also allow the IC to operate at its maximum BTU capacity.
With an oversize HE (no system split), phenolic spacers, NASA heat reflective tape on intake pipes and air boxes, my IAT's run about 10F-12F above ambient while cruising at 100MPH.
I did a WOT run today on the A3 against a tricked-out yellow C63. Max engine RPM's were 6,800 on a 168mm pulley and my IAT's never went above 160F. Recovery to 15F over ambient took about 30 seconds.
The addition of any type of chill water system to increase the temperature differential at the IC will definitely help. The addition of only a HE with greater BTU capacity will help recovery times and also allow the IC to operate at its maximum BTU capacity.
With an oversize HE (no system split), phenolic spacers, NASA heat reflective tape on intake pipes and air boxes, my IAT's run about 10F-12F above ambient while cruising at 100MPH.
I did a WOT run today on the A3 against a tricked-out yellow C63. Max engine RPM's were 6,800 on a 168mm pulley and my IAT's never went above 160F. Recovery to 15F over ambient took about 30 seconds.
Rchase - there is no stock "tank" with the e55....so adding one is just adding fluid to the system, which in turn will help with IATs.
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Having all the cooling mods and good headers, I see about 6-10 over ambient on average.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
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And if you're curious as to what happens to the power when the ECU pulls timing, look at this graph. One of these runs is not like the other. It was the one where cooling was not under control. Issue was fixed and then run again on the same day.
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2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
180mm Lower, split-cooling, Bigger HE, and CM30 pump = 20-22 degrees over ambient for me in this Florida heat.
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^ Which is excellent in the hot and humid summer heat down there in FL.
My goal is to get my temps down to the ~15' over ambient in the summer months.
The winter months are going to be ... fun, to say the least
Is it January yet?
My goal is to get my temps down to the ~15' over ambient in the summer months.
The winter months are going to be ... fun, to say the least
Is it January yet?
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You will only get IATs to be ~15* above ambient as a STARTING POINT (just want to clarify), unless of course you have a killer chiller (then your IATs will start below ambient and probably not cross 130* - depending on your setup)....
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Yes, sorry for the wording, I meant as starting point.
I am undecided on the killer chiller and likely won't be needing it.
I am just not sure I will need it for my driving habits (e.g. I don't drag race, do multiple back to back runs and so on) since I only do a few spirited runs here and there when I have the room and there's no traffic, or the occasional 0-80 sprint from an onramp. That's about it.
I am undecided on the killer chiller and likely won't be needing it.
I am just not sure I will need it for my driving habits (e.g. I don't drag race, do multiple back to back runs and so on) since I only do a few spirited runs here and there when I have the room and there's no traffic, or the occasional 0-80 sprint from an onramp. That's about it.
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I wish this was true. Just did some runs today and I started at 62 IAT and ended up at 177 on a 0-110ish run in Mexico. Dropped down very quickly and it was after a couple other big runs. I had another run where I went from around 40 to 130 and IATs went from 60 to 128 then back down super quick. I do have a 185 mm pulley making a lot of heat but still I expected a little better. Sometimes I can go for quick WOTs bursts and it barely goes up at all though which is pretty cool. Going up a windy mountain road today I did lots of short WOT bursts and IAts just stayed in the 65-80 range which was impressive. They quickly dropped back down to 60-65 between every time I punched it.
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2006 E55
I am using the KIWI Bluetooth from PLX Devices and the Android TORQUE app and I am very happy with the logging and the features it offers, namely the boost, IATs, timing advance, and coolant temp.
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Iphone you need a wifi not Bluetooth for the OB2. You can get them for about $20-25 on Amazon and Ebay. I phone has a couple good apps for about $5 that get good reviews. I also use Torque . Great app for this purpose.
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V12TT's see ~50-60 over ambient while just cruising, before even starting a hard pull. 
You guys should feel lucky.
You guys should feel lucky.
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I did see the torque app for iPhone, and I've been curious to see what my boost and timing reads. Looks like I'll be searching for a obd2 wifi plug tonight!
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You really should be logging your air-fuel mixture to determine if you are running too lean or too rich and will need a wideband. The two leading contenders are Zeitronix and Innovate and you will be able to log everything you want and more....
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2006 E55
TORQUE on Android logs AF and ratios as well. However, only in the paid verion ($4.95). WELL worth the few bucks, especially for the precautionary safety measures of monitoring the vehicle.
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Not unless you have a wideband....if you are getting a value it is narrowband and not at all reliable for tuning purposes (sorry)....
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Half the people using these maps aren't tuning daily/often. We just want to make sure we are in the safe area. Not everyone is a hardcore logger.
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Sorry, but if you modify your car and are not using a wideband to log your AFR, then you are really risking your motor. The narrowband cannot be used to tune a car. At a minimum if you don't want to invest in a wideband, put your car on a dyno that has a wideband and run it through the gears to make sure you are safe.
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2006 E55
Sorry, but if you modify your car and are not using a wideband to log your AFR, then you are really risking your motor. The narrowband cannot be used to tune a car. At a minimum if you don't want to invest in a wideband, put your car on a dyno that has a wideband and run it through the gears to make sure you are safe.
How does my AF look on this dyno run?
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Sorry, that wasn't my dyno 
I am NOT making 605rwhp. I linked Ahmad's car by accident 
Mine is below...
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-tune-only.jpg
I am NOT making 605rwhp. I linked Ahmad's car by accident Mine is below...
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-tune-only.jpg
Last edited by ArmoE55; Sep 19, 2013 at 10:02 AM.
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Sorry, that wasn't my dyno I am NOT making 605rwhp. I linked Ahmad's car by accident
Mine is below...
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-tune-only.jpg
I am NOT making 605rwhp. I linked Ahmad's car by accident Mine is below...
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...-tune-only.jpg
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I asked for a conservative tune, maybe that's why it's rich?. My IATs are actually spot on and my IC pump is working properly as well.
Any other potential ideas why it's so off? There something in the tailpipe, maybe those aren't the most accurate readings?
Any other potential ideas why it's so off? There something in the tailpipe, maybe those aren't the most accurate readings?
