Split Cooling Mistake?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 252
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
Split Cooling Mistake?
I installed a handful of modifications today and I just wanted to confirm I did the split cooling right before I filled up the system.
Sorry for my really crappy diagram
From underneath the car I saw both Ts everything talks about. From my understanding the top one, further away etc needs to be capped off.
The the bottom on needs a line put on that leads to the bmw Res.
Is that really all there is to it? I feel like it was too simple and only took me 45 minutes to do and I'm not a pro mechanic by any means? Seems like the average here is two hours so im assuming I screwed something up.
Thank you!
Sorry for my really crappy diagram
From underneath the car I saw both Ts everything talks about. From my understanding the top one, further away etc needs to be capped off.
The the bottom on needs a line put on that leads to the bmw Res.
Is that really all there is to it? I feel like it was too simple and only took me 45 minutes to do and I'm not a pro mechanic by any means? Seems like the average here is two hours so im assuming I screwed something up.
Thank you!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 252
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
I'm not 100% sure how im going to bleed the s/c system either? I'm guessing im suppose to jump a wire from the h/e pump to the battery to activate it?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 252
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
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Thread Starter
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
I searched like a ****... Thats more of a final step, I barely have a gallon in the system when the new heat exchanger takes 2/3 of a gallon on its own. I figure my whole system should take 2 to 2.5 gallons and I'm no where near that.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 252
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
Sorry man, I didn't really take to many, but if you want to let me know when you plan on doing it ahead of time; i'll make myself available to answer any questions.
The hardest part of the install was taking off the bumper. I skipped on pulling off the wheels and fender liners. I just loosened it up to get my hand in there. Had i done that i would have learned how to get the sides off. After you pull the screw out of the rear of the bumper put your hand inside and youll feel a long metal bracket that holds the whole thing together nice and flush. You want to grab it from the back and push that towards the back of the motor in a diagonal direction. After it swings out push that forward and itll come off then the bumper will literally drop. Take off the sides first then the center. The two bolts behind the lower grill can be removed without pulling off the grill with a long extension.
Don't bother cutting the clamps off. Theres plenty of hose down there to slice with a razor directly next to the clamp and use the t still.
The plm heat exchanger came a little banged up, but was easy to fix the few fins. For 350 shipped I didn't go wrong. It bolted up perfect and had the bracket for the oil cooler below. Very happy with this and its coupled to a new Bosch 010 pump.
Total install for everything was about 4 hours.
30 minutes jacked up the car,removed front under shield, loosened front section of fenders.
45 minutes split cooling
45 minutes heat exchanger
5 minutes for the pump
1 hours bumper uninstall and reinstall
1 hour double checking my work and bleeding system
The hardest part of the install was taking off the bumper. I skipped on pulling off the wheels and fender liners. I just loosened it up to get my hand in there. Had i done that i would have learned how to get the sides off. After you pull the screw out of the rear of the bumper put your hand inside and youll feel a long metal bracket that holds the whole thing together nice and flush. You want to grab it from the back and push that towards the back of the motor in a diagonal direction. After it swings out push that forward and itll come off then the bumper will literally drop. Take off the sides first then the center. The two bolts behind the lower grill can be removed without pulling off the grill with a long extension.
Don't bother cutting the clamps off. Theres plenty of hose down there to slice with a razor directly next to the clamp and use the t still.
The plm heat exchanger came a little banged up, but was easy to fix the few fins. For 350 shipped I didn't go wrong. It bolted up perfect and had the bracket for the oil cooler below. Very happy with this and its coupled to a new Bosch 010 pump.
Total install for everything was about 4 hours.
30 minutes jacked up the car,removed front under shield, loosened front section of fenders.
45 minutes split cooling
45 minutes heat exchanger
5 minutes for the pump
1 hours bumper uninstall and reinstall
1 hour double checking my work and bleeding system
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 42
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2011 Grnd Sport Vette, 1998 WS6 T/A, Soon E55
Sorry man, I didn't really take to many, but if you want to let me know when you plan on doing it ahead of time; i'll make myself available to answer any questions.
The hardest part of the install was taking off the bumper. I skipped on pulling off the wheels and fender liners. I just loosened it up to get my hand in there. Had i done that i would have learned how to get the sides off. After you pull the screw out of the rear of the bumper put your hand inside and youll feel a long metal bracket that holds the whole thing together nice and flush. You want to grab it from the back and push that towards the back of the motor in a diagonal direction. After it swings out push that forward and itll come off then the bumper will literally drop. Take off the sides first then the center. The two bolts behind the lower grill can be removed without pulling off the grill with a long extension.
Don't bother cutting the clamps off. Theres plenty of hose down there to slice with a razor directly next to the clamp and use the t still.
The plm heat exchanger came a little banged up, but was easy to fix the few fins. For 350 shipped I didn't go wrong. It bolted up perfect and had the bracket for the oil cooler below. Very happy with this and its coupled to a new Bosch 010 pump.
Total install for everything was about 4 hours.
30 minutes jacked up the car,removed front under shield, loosened front section of fenders.
45 minutes split cooling
45 minutes heat exchanger
5 minutes for the pump
1 hours bumper uninstall and reinstall
1 hour double checking my work and bleeding system
The hardest part of the install was taking off the bumper. I skipped on pulling off the wheels and fender liners. I just loosened it up to get my hand in there. Had i done that i would have learned how to get the sides off. After you pull the screw out of the rear of the bumper put your hand inside and youll feel a long metal bracket that holds the whole thing together nice and flush. You want to grab it from the back and push that towards the back of the motor in a diagonal direction. After it swings out push that forward and itll come off then the bumper will literally drop. Take off the sides first then the center. The two bolts behind the lower grill can be removed without pulling off the grill with a long extension.
Don't bother cutting the clamps off. Theres plenty of hose down there to slice with a razor directly next to the clamp and use the t still.
The plm heat exchanger came a little banged up, but was easy to fix the few fins. For 350 shipped I didn't go wrong. It bolted up perfect and had the bracket for the oil cooler below. Very happy with this and its coupled to a new Bosch 010 pump.
Total install for everything was about 4 hours.
30 minutes jacked up the car,removed front under shield, loosened front section of fenders.
45 minutes split cooling
45 minutes heat exchanger
5 minutes for the pump
1 hours bumper uninstall and reinstall
1 hour double checking my work and bleeding system
What exactly does this split cooler mod do.......?
.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 252
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
It splits your coolant system into two sections. Your motor cooling and your supercharger cooling.
There aren't peak horsepower gains; but it helps keep your horsepower after repeated runs.
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2011 Grnd Sport Vette, 1998 WS6 T/A, Soon E55
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Mercedes
Could you get more coolant into the system? Try starting car and then stabbing at throttle, and could do it while car is still parked and worked on. Pump should be fine since it'll pull the coolant in the new reservoir.
I'm thinking of doing the same mod except using the Cobra GT500 reservoir, which requires two lines since it hooks inline to the system.
I'm thinking of doing the same mod except using the Cobra GT500 reservoir, which requires two lines since it hooks inline to the system.
Thread Starter
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
I checked the lower radiator plug and realized I only drained half of it which explains why I was almost a gallon off. After I accounted that it was right and I took the car for a drive to get it warm. I added about 1/4 gallon more during the drive. I was worried about driving the car with the system half full.
If you're just driving spiritedly I think anything separate is plenty. There's only so much you can do on the streets. For the cost and simplicity the BMW setup is great.
If you're just driving spiritedly I think anything separate is plenty. There's only so much you can do on the streets. For the cost and simplicity the BMW setup is great.
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2006 E55
I ordered the BIP Split Cooling kit as well.
Waiting for it to arrive soon.
Hopefully, this will improve temps a bit more. I am planning to hardwire the IC pump to run constantly while doing the split cooling.
Consistency is key with these motors!
Waiting for it to arrive soon.
Hopefully, this will improve temps a bit more. I am planning to hardwire the IC pump to run constantly while doing the split cooling.
Consistency is key with these motors!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
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From: Florida-Germany-New York
2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
FWIW, if you look at the original AMG setup, there is really no way hot engine coolant can enter into or circulate through the HE/IC/pump cooling circuit through the single "T" once the circuit has been purged of air.
Accordingly, there will be no improvement in cooling. That said, if you are installing an additional coolant chilling system IE Killer-Chiller or aux trunk tank, then of course the system needs to be split and you will have an improvement by increasing the TD between the IC and charge air.
In a split system, do not run chilled coolant through the HE first as you will only add heat to the coolant. The HE should act as a pre-cooler for the coolant returning from the IC to the tank/reservoir.
For myself, I'm satisfied with a larger capacity HE.
Accordingly, there will be no improvement in cooling. That said, if you are installing an additional coolant chilling system IE Killer-Chiller or aux trunk tank, then of course the system needs to be split and you will have an improvement by increasing the TD between the IC and charge air.
In a split system, do not run chilled coolant through the HE first as you will only add heat to the coolant. The HE should act as a pre-cooler for the coolant returning from the IC to the tank/reservoir.
For myself, I'm satisfied with a larger capacity HE.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 252
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
FWIW, if you look at the original AMG setup, there is really no way hot engine coolant can enter into or circulate through the HE/IC/pump cooling circuit through the single "T" once the circuit has been purged of air.
Accordingly, there will be no improvement in cooling. That said, if you are installing an additional coolant chilling system IE Killer-Chiller or aux trunk tank, then of course the system needs to be split and you will have an improvement by increasing the TD between the IC and charge air.
In a split system, do not run chilled coolant through the HE first as you will only add heat to the coolant. The HE should act as a pre-cooler for the coolant returning from the IC to the tank/reservoir.
For myself, I'm satisfied with a larger capacity HE.
Accordingly, there will be no improvement in cooling. That said, if you are installing an additional coolant chilling system IE Killer-Chiller or aux trunk tank, then of course the system needs to be split and you will have an improvement by increasing the TD between the IC and charge air.
In a split system, do not run chilled coolant through the HE first as you will only add heat to the coolant. The HE should act as a pre-cooler for the coolant returning from the IC to the tank/reservoir.
For myself, I'm satisfied with a larger capacity HE.
Bigger is better, 100% correct, but 99% of us aren't tracking the car. For a $25 tank, and $10 worth of fittings and clamps you really can't go wrong.
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From: A to the Z (the state)
'06 E55
Wiring the pump to be on with the key is really nice. It makes bleeding the system super easy... and you can have the pump run for a few minutes with the engine off to circulate the fluid between runs at the strip, if you want.
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From: South Florida
Daily 06 E55, Fun 12 GSXR750, Racing John Deere D110
I ordered a SDS system from Shardul last week. From my understanding I can activate the pump with that system if I decide to take it to the track.
I don't want to run it 24/7 so it doesn't burn out sooner. I don't really rape my car 24/7, only on really good days, really bad days and typical days
