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Yes and no? Depends on how much boost you are doing. If you are hitting 14-16 psi on occasion, I have heard this map sensor delays triggering limp mode..........but still will trigger it. The key part of my comment is Map Clamp. Split Second is the company who makes it. Set the module to 4.5v and never look back.
I'm running stock pulleys with headers so I'm far from overboosting
1.artfully or affectedly shy or reserved; slyly hesitant; coquettish.
2.shy; modest.
3.showing reluctance, especially when insincere or affected, to reveal one's plans or opinions, make a commitment
If you are not clamping, you know something that a lot of us don't. Unless, of course, most of you know and I'm still ghetto rigging my sh*t. If that's the case, I'll pour a little out of my 40oz to all my homies. Just keeping it real, that's all.
I'm running stock pulleys with headers so I'm far from overboosting
If that is the case, you don't need a clamp. Throwing a map sensor code could be a faulty connector or short in the wire? Sometimes limp mode followed by rough idle can be caused by:
1) vacuum leak
2) throttle body
3) your car hates you
4) 02's (yes, really)
5) restricted intake
6) consuming alcohol
Took my surge tanks off to recheck everything. After putting it back together, used star to lower my idle speed a bit. Seems great so far. Time will tell.
Originally Posted by EREBUS
If that is the case, you don't need a clamp. Throwing a map sensor code could be a faulty connector or short in the wire? Sometimes limp mode followed by rough idle can be caused by:
1) vacuum leak
2) throttle body
3) your car hates you
4) 02's (yes, really)
5) restricted intake
6) consuming alcohol
Took my surge tanks off to recheck everything. After putting it back together, used star to lower my idle speed a bit. Seems great so far. Time will tell.
^^^^^^^^^This. It's what we do. Non-gearheads don't get it. We take things apart and search for the problem. When we find the problem, we teach others and explain our journey. If the problem can't be found? The vehicle mysteriously burns to the ground by a freak lightening storm. With no rain. In a field. Far away from home. While hanging out with "family". What?
So, anyway ,has anyone got around the 17 PSI boost problem
Well, cnterline.....I owe you an apology. To run the speeds and times you are running, I assumed you are clamping. If not, you need to hand over your vehicle to a tuner and have them research your anomaly.
No, as of yet......no tuner can tune past the max psi. Blackbenzz states he is hitting 20 psi with Weistec......so maybe he has the answer. I believe redbulljunky claims his tuner can tune past the psi max, but is not willing to disclose how. Gotta love it when a select few hold back info on a dated platform like it's going to cost them something if they share it. lolz
Originally Posted by blackbenzz
I'm running over 20psi. Maybe you shouldn't take your car to Renntech lol
No clamp
Typically if I roll race somebody and going in 4th boost goes up into or near 17 , cold temps and high altimeter press 30:30 etc,I'm near sea level.
Wait, so the Bosch 0261 230 191 MAP sensor from the v12 cars fixed this hiccup issue for everyone or are you guys just living with it?
I've had this issue for a long time and I am about 98% convinced that it is a software issue. I've had it persist through three different throttle bodies (two 82mm and the 90mm), three different MAP sensors (my original, the next version, and the current version), two different intake systems, two different superchargers, and even two different engines. I've checked for the tiniest leaks time and time again and it's all locked up tight. I've had it with clutched pulleys and fixed pulleys of all different sizes.
It has to be some obscure setting or string of code in the ECU, like some part throttle torque limit or something like that. I'll probably hire an escort for the person who figures it out. I've had tunes from FOUR different tuners (OE, Eurocharged, Logic Lab, and Tony) and the hiccup has shown up on all of them.
I've had this issue for a long time and I am about 98% convinced that it is a software issue. I've had it persist through three different throttle bodies (two 82mm and the 90mm), three different MAP sensors (my original, the next version, and the current version), two different intake systems, two different superchargers, and even two different engines. I've checked for the tiniest leaks time and time again and it's all locked up tight. I've had it with clutched pulleys and fixed pulleys of all different sizes.
It has to be some obscure setting or string of code in the ECU, like some part throttle torque limit or something like that. I'll probably hire an escort for the person who figures it out. I've had tunes from FOUR different tuners (OE, Eurocharged, Logic Lab, and Tony) and the hiccup has shown up on all of them.
No clamp
Typically if I roll race somebody and going in 4th boost goes up into or near 17 , cold temps and high altimeter press 30:30 etc,I'm near sea level.
No way in hell can I hit 15.5 psi before limp mode? I tried everything and spent a few thousand to correct it. Ironically, a $75 part fixed it. My anger in this thread was originally directed, whether justified or not, towards individuals I felt were holding back crucial information on the M113K map sensor issue. Then again, it seems a lot of this platform is made out to be top secret?
It is safe to say different platforms and years show different results. It is also safe to say that the only true fix is a map clamp. Bullsh*t aside, especially from a couple members here.....fooling the ECU to stop excessive programed pressure protocols from triggering past 4.5v is a win, win. My advice to those who decide to map clamp? (contact Anthony Lawshee!) It's best to dyno tune with a map clamp to make sure the AFR's are within protocol.
Oh, yeah......my apologizes to those I offended. Unless, of course, you deserved it. I can't really distinguish who really deserved my banter, though. I would hope we can move past our differences and work together for the better good of our AMG's.
I'm running 17psi not 20psi. No map clamp here. People will try to make **** up as much as they can to take credit away from others accomplishments because they can't do it. I've shared plenty of info on this board.
When I was running 20 it would go into limp mode after I let off the throttle.
I'm running 17psi not 20psi. No map clamp here. People will try to make **** up as much as they can to take credit away from others accomplishments because they can't do it. I've shared plenty of info on this board.
When I was running 20 it would go into limp mode after I let off the throttle.
First off, I would like to add that you are a complete d*ck that I would love to throat punch.
Second off, re-read your response to this thread. What? You forgot? Let me repost your stupid *ss response claiming my Renntech tune is the problem. Don't crawfish, as*hole. Shared? You share what is known. Then again, who cares. Our platform is unknown and well surpassed by most. Separate can system is the ONLY TRUE FIX TO OUR PLATFORM. Let me know when you make it to Texas....
Originally Posted by blackbenzz
I'm running over 20psi. Maybe you shouldn't take your car to Renntech lol.
Can any one tell me what is the diference between this 2 MAP sensor
The left one has the las four numbers 3328 seems to bee a upgrade of the right one that has the last 4 numbers 3128, but looking at the hole of the sensor the right one is bigger thoes that make any difference ?
Yes and no? Depends on how much boost you are doing. If you are hitting 14-16 psi on occasion, I have heard this map sensor delays triggering limp mode..........but still will trigger it. The key part of my comment is Map Clamp. Split Second is the company who makes it. Set the module to 4.5v and never look back.
Just wondering where that value came from ?
Do you see that voltage at 17 psi from the map signal wire
2008 MB C350 4MATIC/2011 CL63 AMG/2014 C63 Coupe 507
Hey guys. Reviving an old thread.
I got a 4L supercharged C63 and its been a year since i cant figure this issue out....i keep googling these car issues i have and saw this thread.
Engine had been rebuilt with 4L blower. Everyone with my Supercharger has zero issues..just me.
Car at WOT goes to 6000 rpms, stays there (apparently throttle body stays open with air drastically decreasing), folowed by a fuel cut (assuming ecu trippin out so it does this). Literally its like hitting a ghost limiter. Redline is 7200. Tried few tunes as well.
noticed at times this ghost limiter can be 5500 , 6000, or 6400rpms. Usualy cuts out at 6000rpms 90% of time. Seemed like once i disconnected negative battery terminal for 10 mins and went for drive after , rpms went to 6400 rpms those times...bizare. so i tried many times this process but didnt seem to make a difference after..
However, this issue happens at WOT. But, when you accelerate not at WOT, say, 80 percent or less acceleration, car will go to redline. However, if i slowly accelerate to 6500rpms and WOT it there, the rpms does the cutout again.
I know its not the tune, went through 2 reputable tuners, Im thinking its ecu issue, map issue, tcu / valvebody issue, maybe ESP module? Any advice would be appreciated. Im curious if these were the symptoms of the guys that had issues with their cars in this thread.
04-13-2016, 05:15 PM
I think mine may have been 2 or 3.
