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you didn't write down your settings before lowering? bad boy!
i can plug star in and look at my factory settings sometime this weekend or monday if nobody else has them written down for you.
first time i had it lowered by someone else. Since then i purchased a star to do it myself and been having a problem with it always dropping lower after I lower it. I always get the "calibration successful" message at the end but for some reason it drops back down as soon as i start the car. at this point i want to start from scratch and cant seem to find how to get it back to factory height. I was hoping for there to be a way to just "reset" back to factory but i guess entering the factory settings would achieve that. i'll keep an eye out for it in the next few days, Thanks
In my mind it is very important to have the correct level vs using just random 3rd party setting. I have seen folks with higher fronts compared to rears (looks awful to me).
I paid MB dealer - to sit in the car with level drawn on the wall and calibrate accordingly. The results are phenomenal. The car sits proportionally front and back and low
So again I adjust ride height and end up with 26" from floor to fender on the front and 26.25" on the rear. Again I get the "level calibration successful" message and again it drops almost a half inch a few minutes later. When adjusting it I made it higher than I wanted knowing most likely it'll drop a bit. I just have no clue why it's doing that. What am I doing wrong?
So again I adjust ride height and end up with 26" from floor to fender on the front and 26.25" on the rear. Again I get the "level calibration successful" message and again it drops almost a half inch a few minutes later. When adjusting it I made it higher than I wanted knowing most likely it'll drop a bit. I just have no clue why it's doing that. What am I doing wrong?
Yes. On mine I had to adjust about half inch more. Once you are done it will drop a bit. You are not doing anything wrong. Compensate half inch and try again. If not hit me up while you are doing it (Pm for cell).
Also use - 1.1 for rear inclination which is the minimum in our cars.
what would be different if i set the rear inclination to -1.1 vs -1.5? just went for a ride and when returned measured and got 1/2" higher on the passenger side. this thing will make me crazy.
I might be wrong but it is the allowed degree between corners. Before disconnect raise and lower the car then re-meassure. It will drop about 1/2 inch.
Unfortunately with my F1 adjustable Camber Upper Arms I installed on my 07’ E63, without custom links ride height for fronts are 25 7/8, as the voltage is then safely at 1.9V (within the range of 1.8-2.8V on LF). If I went higher, it would either be too close to 1.8V or fall into the 1.7x range and then not be Successfully Calibrated. The higher ride height level angle in front is 4.1 -vs- lower 3.1 degrees.
I then bought custom (shorter) adjustable links for the front which enabled me to set ride height up to 26 15/16 on fronts at about 3.8*. If I try to go higher to say 4.1, it won’t rise much at all when engaging the lift button?? However by raising the fronts, I am then able to raise the rears to max of about 27 1/8 driver side (27 5/8 Pass Side) at about -1.0 degree. I’ve found that if I tried to go any Higher in the rear, even though when I engage manual lift button it will rise 10mm, but I’ve deduced that if the voltage for the rears goes outside the voltage range, once I disengage lift button, it will settle way back down to 25 1/2 on front!! Even with the custom links up front! Once I measured exactly how high I could go within voltage range for rear (27 9/16 DS), I then lowered it 10mm (27 1/8 DS), measured the inclination angle (-1.0), input the setting in Xentry and I was good to go!
On the rears, even though I can set each airspring individually within Xentry (either raising or lowering), when it comes to automatically setting the suspension, Xentry only goes off the avg. bar pressure, which will be the same for the rears. In my case, one side sags about 3/16 more than the other, no big deal. This may be due to my un-level garage floor!!! As for the axle angle values for the rear, without shorter custom links on the front the lowest height in the rear is at about 26 1/2 “ is the -1.5 degree value. The higher height value would be -0.9 degrees at around 26 15/16”, or so...
I did encounter a problem after “Successful Calibration”, whereby once I switch off ignition and disco Xentry and restart, it lowers back to 25 1/2 on fronts?? (26 with new links) When I pull up Xentry again and go to Automatic Calibration, it shows a previous setting which is wrong, not the most recent “Successful Update” I did in Initial Startup Calibration??? I found that I had been inputting the wrong angles as I had been using my iPhone Inclination Angle App but in so doing, I was using the sides of the phone whereas when I placed the back of the phone lengthwise on the front nubs as well as on the rear axle itself, the measurements were much more exact once you level out the phone to center.
Somewhere else on the forum it says to close Xentry then start-up, manually raise for two minutes using the ride height button, then lower and wait 2 mins and measure. In my case, once I startup, it reverts back to a lowered 25 1/2” on fronts????? I however found that once I successfully adjust in Xentry, I then start the car up and the disco the MUX without closing down Xentry! Then let car idle a minute or so, raise it with the button for 2 mins and lower again. If it lowers to where you want it, your set! If not, double check voltages.
EDIT: The following information is for an Airmatic-equipped W211 with a build date up to May 2005.
Original factory specs using factory bushings and parts. Using STAR, go to "Control Units, Chassis, Airmatic, Initial Startup, Initial startup with manual settings". If you have STAR, go through the STAR simulation exercise first. This is easier than one would think.
Factory front inclination angles measured off of the two "nubs" on the rear lower control arm: 3.1* to 4.1*. Inboard end of control arm higher than outboard end. 4.1* equals highest ride height. 3.1* equals lowest ride height. Highest ride height corresponds to -1.1* camber, lowest ride height corresponds to -1.7* camber. (Note: front camber range is -1.4* +/- 0.3*; i.e. -1.1* to -1.7*)
Allowable voltage readings from the sensors:
Left Front: 1.8V to 2.8V
Right Front: 2.2V to 3.2V
(I do not know why the two front sensors have different voltage range allowances.)
Examples:
Front right inclination angle 3.1*. Voltage reading 3.3V. System will not accept the values and will refuse to calibrate.
Front right inclination angle 3.1*. Voltage reading 3.0V. System will initialize/calibrate using these values.
Front right inclination angle 4.1*. Voltage reading 2.0V. System will not accept the values and will refuse to calibrate.
Front right inclination angle 4.1*. Voltage reading 2.2V. System will initialize/calibrate using these values.
Factory rear inclination angles measured off of the rear drive axle shaft: -0.9* to -1.5*. Inboard end of axle lower than outboard end. (e.g. -0.9* equals highest ride height, -1.5* equals lowest ride height) Highest ride height corresponds to -1.2* camber, lowest ride height corresponds to -2.2* camber. (NOTE: Rear camber range is -1.7* +/- 0.5*; i.e. -1.2* to -2.2*)
Allowable voltage readings from the rear sensor:
2.2V to 3.0V
NOTE: When I calibrated my car's suspension, with the rear inclination angle set to -1.2* (middle of the recommended range), the sensor voltage was 2.34V. The inclination versus voltage readings are not necessarily linear or clean cut. Set the inclination angles to the camber or ride height you want, verify the voltage readings are within allowable ranges, and then accept the values. If the voltages are not within the acceptable range, you are going to have to raise or lower the car until you get the voltages within the acceptable range. If the inclination angles are not within range, look for badly worn parts that must be replaced.
Picture below shows the before/after values when I calibrated after replacing the stock air springs with Arnott air springs. Calibration removed a diagonal "rocking" motion from the left rear to right front, brought the rear camber back into range, and provided my car with a nicely "raked" look with the front lower than the back. Prior to calibration, all four corners were much too low. Front camber angles look different because I have KMac bushings up front and I set them to pull the camber to the minimum of the recommended range.
does highest ride height mean comfort mode or lift mode?
When I refer to highest versus lowest ride height, I'm referring to the maximum versus minimum inclination angles. If you look at the picture, an increase by 0.7* inclination angle to 3.1* on the right front raised that corner by almost one inch. If I had set it at 4.1* I would expect the corner to be another inch or more higher. In the rear, a change of 1.6* inclination angle increased ride height by almost one and a half inches.
The suspension is calibrated in the standard ride-height mode, not lifted. In fact, prior to calibrating, you should raise/lower the car a couple of times to settle the suspension. As far as Comfort, Sport 1, or Sport 2 that is a "don't care". Those modes affect stiffness of the air springs and the shock absorbers. The ride height is a separate issue.
on my E63 the Comfort, Sport 1, and Sport 2 change ride height.
thanks for the additional information. makes sense why my voltages now are odd, it has to do with the angle defined.
EDIT: The simulation for the E63 shows the same values as those posted above for the E55 with build dates up to 06/2006.
My bad. I forgot you have the E63 version. I'll pull up the simulation tomorrow and see what is different for the E63 versus E55. There are three distinct simulations depending upon date of manufacture.
thanks for the help... here are the steps i took to complete the level adjustment on my E63. i honestly have to say it took 5-6 hours to figure this out and get a proceed that works down, the raise and lower counts varied upon attempt which was rather frustrating. i now have the front and rear's aligned but after 2 weeks of driving i realized i set my front left and right 1 tick lower than standard. i'm not sure i want to put myself through this process once again. the last time after figuring out a process that worked took 1.5 hours but 45 minutes after figuring it out.
Steps with Generic OBD2 Diagnostic Tool:
enter control unit
chassis
suspension
special functions
initial start up
initial start up with manual settings input for new control model level calibration
input out of range values...one sensor below 2v works to cause the airmatic computer to erase all settings and default to faulted raised height
at angle setting set 4.1 -0.9
level signals are out of permissible range. (works to cause the airmatic computer to erase all settings and default to faulted raised height)
exit control unit
ride height will reset and vehicle will raise to highest point
re-enter control unit
chassis
suspension
special functions
initial start up
initial start up with manual settings input for new control model level calibration
right lower x5
left raise x4
rear lower x5
for angle i then proceed to use
front 3.6 left, 3.5 right since it was lower
rear left -1.2, rear right -1.1 since this side was lower
I’ve finally completed building my 2007 E63 entire rear end and am getting ready to go to an Indy for an alignment. Rather than leaving it to them to figure out what height it should be only to come to the painful and timely realization that once you move one, everything else changes, which I’m sure they generally know, but perhaps not as detailed as 4.1* being the highest setting measuring 27 1/8” to fender along with the rears being set at its highest setting at -0.9* ( which is higher ride height than the alternate extreme range being -1.5*) which sets the rear at around 26 1/4”, I thought I’d reacquaint myself with the process . Since all the Airmatic is now new, or rebuilt, I was happy to realize that my once unequal rear end now measures to within a 1/16 of each other whereas before the difference was at least a 1/2”! And the fronts move equally now when lifting the “Front Suspension” in Xentry as compared to before when I had one OEM and the other being a low grade Are NOTT, and no they didn’t move in harmony when raising or lowering together in Xentry. I might mention all of this is only really possible if you have a some level floor to do the measurements and adjustments from.
As for ride height, I personally would rather have the rear a bit higher ( say, at least level with the front as far as stance ) but after all the work I’ve done since the dawn of COVID including swapping out the gears to 3.06 with a LSD, I’ve gotta believe the AMG gods had a good reason to require the rear angles of the axles being slightly negative - vs - a much preferred positive! As such, I can live with it as long as the reason is sound. I mean, one reason for the front to be a little higher is the weight of the engine, maybe? During hard acceleration, I can envision the rear Diff wanting to rise a bit making the axles near level, same for hard downshifting. As for lowering, not only does the look not appeal to me personally, but the beautiful Airmatic acts rather harshly.
EDIT: The following information is for an Airmatic-equipped W211 with a build date up to May 2005.
Original factory specs using factory bushings and parts. Using STAR, go to "Control Units, Chassis, Airmatic, Initial Startup, Initial startup with manual settings". If you have STAR, go through the STAR simulation exercise first. This is easier than one would think.
Factory front inclination angles measured off of the two "nubs" on the rear lower control arm: 3.1* to 4.1*. Inboard end of control arm higher than outboard end. 4.1* equals highest ride height. 3.1* equals lowest ride height. Highest ride height corresponds to -1.1* camber, lowest ride height corresponds to -1.7* camber. (Note: front camber range is -1.4* +/- 0.3*; i.e. -1.1* to -1.7*)
Allowable voltage readings from the sensors:
Left Front: 1.8V to 2.8V
Right Front: 2.2V to 3.2V
(I do not know why the two front sensors have different voltage range allowances.)
Examples:
Front right inclination angle 3.1*. Voltage reading 3.3V. System will not accept the values and will refuse to calibrate.
Front right inclination angle 3.1*. Voltage reading 3.0V. System will initialize/calibrate using these values.
Front right inclination angle 4.1*. Voltage reading 2.0V. System will not accept the values and will refuse to calibrate.
Front right inclination angle 4.1*. Voltage reading 2.2V. System will initialize/calibrate using these values.
Factory rear inclination angles measured off of the rear drive axle shaft: -0.9* to -1.5*. Inboard end of axle lower than outboard end. (e.g. -0.9* equals highest ride height, -1.5* equals lowest ride height) Highest ride height corresponds to -1.2* camber, lowest ride height corresponds to -2.2* camber. (NOTE: Rear camber range is -1.7* +/- 0.5*; i.e. -1.2* to -2.2*)
Allowable voltage readings from the rear sensor:
2.2V to 3.0V
NOTE: When I calibrated my car's suspension, with the rear inclination angle set to -1.2* (middle of the recommended range), the sensor voltage was 2.34V. The inclination versus voltage readings are not necessarily linear or clean cut. Set the inclination angles to the camber or ride height you want, verify the voltage readings are within allowable ranges, and then accept the values. If the voltages are not within the acceptable range, you are going to have to raise or lower the car until you get the voltages within the acceptable range. If the inclination angles are not within range, look for badly worn parts that must be replaced.
Picture below shows the before/after values when I calibrated after replacing the stock air springs with Arnott air springs. Calibration removed a diagonal "rocking" motion from the left rear to right front, brought the rear camber back into range, and provided my car with a nicely "raked" look with the front lower than the back. Prior to calibration, all four corners were much too low. Front camber angles look different because I have KMac bushings up front and I set them to pull the camber to the minimum of the recommended range.
Would you be so kind to tell me what the factory setting are? I'm not interested in lowering the car. I have a w211 2004 e320cdi kombi and the left rear sits a little lower then the right rear just want to adjust it as I have new air springs in it.
Thanks in advance
Would you be so kind to tell me what the factory setting are? I'm not interested in lowering the car. I have a w211 2004 e320cdi kombi and the left rear sits a little lower then the right rear just want to adjust it as I have new air springs in it.
Thanks in advance
Please friends, could someone help me, with the adjustment values of the abc suspension, of a 2007 cl550? If I enter a diagnosis, it warns me of a calibration error (no error appears on the instrument panel). I have asked in the CL section of this forum, but they have not been able to help me.
11-23-2013, 11:53 AM
