I recently completed facelift headlight update by fitting my current 02-06 headlights with the inserts from 07-09. I f'ed up on the left side though a little bit. I decided therefore to try to retrofit actual 07-09 headlight. I know it's been done before, but couldn't find very clear instructions on how to do it. So I hit the wiring diagrams and figured it out.

Goal is to show people how to setup the wiring, not take bumper off etc .. there are quite a few links for that

Materials needed:

Headlight connectors:*
2x 2115451128 - $4.48 ea
2x 0235450626 - $3.74 ea
2x CanBUS connectors 0375455928
4x CanBUS pins 0005404505*
Either:
4x 0135451626 - for CanBUS to headlight - $1.62 ea - pins only need crimping
OR 4x 0005403805 $4.36 ea - pre-crimped with wire

Pre facelift headlights have these connectors



Face-lift headlights have these connectors





There are 4 plugs from 2004-2006 (Active curve Xenon)
4 pin:
1:brown - Ground,
2:Yel/Blk - Low beam,
3:white - Left High Beam Voltage,
4:Gray/Blk - Left Front Turn signal
picture below:



3 pin -
1:Brown - Ground,
2:Green/Glk - Headlight Range adjustment,
3:Black - +12V Switched
picture below:



2 x 2 pin connectors
Plug I am holding - pins wider apart:
1:Brown - Ground
2:White/Yellow - Left High Beam

Plug below the one held:
1:Brown - Ground
2:White/Blk - Left front standing lamp



Step 1.
De-pin all these connectors.
Pop up the plastic cap first on each connector as shown.



Step2.
You can use jeweller flathead screw drivers to get the pins out. Wiggle the drivers as you pull on the wire. (illustrating on 5 pin)


Step 3.
Re-insert the pins into the first plug as follows:
1:Brown - Ground
2:Yellow/Blk - Low beam
3:White/Yellow - Left high beam
4:White/Blk - front standing parking lamp (picture below incorrect)
5:Grey/Blk - Left turn signal voltage (picture below incorrect)

Note the picture has pins 4 & 5 switched .. the written instructions are correct. Also the connector is the incorrect connector but actually fits.



For the second 5 pin plug - Xenon headlamp with curve adjustment

1:Brown - Ground
2:No connection
3:Black +12V switched
4:Green - Can Low
5:White - Can High

Some additional notes:

On some versions of headlamp, the parking lamp is white and will flash, if it flashes when you turn parking lamp on, then you have power LED version. The stock 2003-2006 wire cannot supply enough power to this LED. You will need to wire a relay that is switched by this wire instead - not sure why Mercedes did it that way.

Some Grounds will not be used, just heat shrink them together. Voltage range adjustment wire also not needed.

I have tested this and it works .. I am waiting for additional connector to arrive so I can finish it up.

Enjoy!!

 

Awesome detailed write up ...you have a few DIYs and they are amazing thanks for them all love the retrofits

 

WOW....finally someone had a writeup for facelift xenon headlights to pre-facelift car.

What if i don't have active xenon ?? Is it the same re-wiring ?

 

Thanks guys. Actually, I cannot claim to be the first. I have seen others do it in different ways as below:

Option 1:
1. Get used Facelift or depot facelift lights
2. Bake open both lights.
3. Swap the insert from new light to old. This requires dremel of tabs from the newer light
4. Swap the lenses while you are at it if newer ones are in better condition.
5. Bake headlight and press closed

This requires a fairly large oven. Mine barely fit. Also it is messy .. I f'ed up the first one - first light I have done. A dot of black goo got on the silver finish - tried to remove with alcohol … big mistake! The silvering is very thin layer, don't even touch it. Other disadvantage is that the turn signal bulb will hold the electrical connection. If you ever need to change that bulb, it will be a pain to screw back in.

Option 2:
Similar to mine, I have seen others cut off the old connectors or tie into old wires using wire taps. This to me does not look as clean and is rather expensive. Need to get up to 18x wires part number 0005403805 at ~$4.37 each - that's ~$87 (with shipping) for just wires.

For Non-Xenon lights, You only have plug S1, so you only need to wire plug S1. I only did the left side. The right side is the same but different wire colors but pin positions are the same.

For Non-Active curve Xenon, it is the same I believe. I would need to see the pins on the Facelift headlight. If pin S2-2 is present and CanBUS wires S2-4 and S2-5 are not present, then you would use the voltage range adjustment wire.

For steel suspension cars (Non-E55 AMG), it appears that connector S3 is used (capped in the pic on the facelift head light).

 

very nice write up

 

Thanks Shardul

I did this as an experiment actually. I have 2 facelift left side lamps - the one with active cure had the case shattered but internals OK, the other had just Halogens in it. I am swapping the guts over .. almost done. Thought I would test the parts first before swapping.

I'll probably do a write up of how to completely rebuild an Active curve headlight from scratch. It's a little messy but can be done. These active curve headlights are $$ new or used. I have $180 into this little project

 

I recently purchased 2 facelift BiXenon lamps to do this. Before I found this diy, I pm'ed a few members from here and mercedesbenz.org but got nothing but discouraging news and most advised to go aftermarket HID's.
Glad I pursued and kept on searching until I found this thread. I will post my experience here as well for those who will be doing this in the near future.
BTW, thanks turbo97se for creating this!!!

Once I read this and PM'ed the OP, I went ahead and tried to test the lamps on a bench to make sure everything was ok so I could give the lamps to the bodyshop
(New front bumper, inner wheel cover, front belly pan and fog lamp due to a recent snowbank incident )

I tried all the bulbs by direct ground and power to all but of course when it came to the xenon bulb there was no light. Re-read the thread but still couldn't get it correctly (thanks turbo97sl for your paaaaatience so far)
My thought was either bulbs or ballasts were no good, after all, I only paid $100 per lamp complete with ALL bulbs. So once again I was about to abort the mission until I decided to power the CAN low... and then there was light



So to recap so I can use this to guide me this coming Saturday when I do the wiring

S1 connector Right to Left (both connectors are oriented the same)

#1 Pin: common ground for all bulbs
#2 Pin: Bixenon 12V direct feed (won't fire up the bulb on its own)
#3 Pin: High Beam
#4 Pin: LED citylight
#5 Pin: Turn signal

S2 Connector (Smaller) Right to Left
There are 5 slots in the smaller connector but it only holds 4 pins, 1 is blank

#1.2 Pin (only pin that is by it's own) Ground
#2.2 Pin (blank, no pin)
#3.2 AutoLevel/Cornering
#4.2 CAN Low Beam (must be power in conjunction with #1 and #2 for the low beam to fire up)
#5.2 CAN High Beam

NOTE: to bench test, for the low beam to fire up you need to provide both grounds and power to #1 and #1.2, #2 and #4.2 and for some strange reason I had to have 12V to #3.2 as well.



Now I just need to figure out which way I want to use to make my LEDs work. I will be receiving my DAS Xentry this week as well from Shardul and I hope to be able to code the SAM to make it work as suggested in the original post.

I ordered the parts from my local dealer today, they should be in on Friday. Once I get this done I will post my out come.

 

Glad you got it running. There is different behavior between whether you plug the headlight into the car harness vs powering it separately. For example. When you power the standing light from the harness, it will blink and turn off until you code the light to LED module with DAS. If you power directly from 12V source, it will stay on. When I hooked my xenons up, I did not need Can Bus to turn it on. I find that part strange.

 

That's weird, I was starting to get pretty frustrated for a moment and I could swear I did tried that combination the second day.
Any idea what the 2 prong conector above the S2 is used for on the driver's side lamp? Passenger side does not have it
I waited til the last minute to buy the needed parts so I had to go to my local dealer... $$$. Although, considering the price paid for the headlamps I really can't complain much. Hopefully my halogens will make an eBayer or CL user happy

 

Are you referring to S2 on facelift light? If so then ignore it. It is not needed. Internal to the light they are just connected to pins on S2. I imagine that these may be used in other countries with different options possibly(refer to the last sentence or two in my original post ... Possibly for steel suspension cars ... Looking purely from the wiring diagram). If you see one of the pics above, it is actually capped. If you have a multimeter you can ohm it out for yourself to determine which pins they connect to.

 

Good night from Spain

I'm trying to do the same job in my class E.
I have assembled everything in the car and I do not function neither the bixenon cornering function.
I have spoken with 97se turbo by Dm (Thanks) and the problem I have in the can bus connection.
Is that the terminal c is under the driver's feet, but no where in the terminal, I have to put the new terminal.
Could you put some photo?
thank you very much

 

Not sure I undrestand your question.
I'll send you a PM with my e-mail address.

 

Hi!

Did you make the LEDs work?
My friend did the same facelift conversion, but his LED parking lights are flashing 5-6 times and then turn off. Any idea on how to fix this? More power or resistor, how much and if more power, from where should it be taken?

Any input is appreciated!

Thanks

 

I believe you need to use a relay on each one and draw power from the battery and just let the canbus wire trigger them.
I never did do my headlamps, sold the car and still have the headlamps sitting in my garage. I guess is time to post them on CL

 

Yes, there is a setting in the DAS developer mode that allows you to set whether it is LED mode or not. It has been a long time since I did it ... can't quite remember. I'll see if I can find it.

 

Hi, i have retrofittet these headlights. My car had bi xenon and the new are bi xenon too. Do I need to SCN code them? Because I have errors on LWR

Best regards
Kent

 

Bumping this one up rather than starting a new thread.

My vehicle is a 2004 with Xenon and auto-level/active-cornering. I am upgrading to a set of 2006+ Bi-Xenon and auto-level/active-cornering with the LED city bulb.

As of today:

- the low beam works as it should
- the auto-level and active-cornering are working when turning the lamps on
- flicker from the LED (no relay wired as of yet, may swap out to the halogen city bulb from my stock light)
- turn signals work

My issue is with the bi-xenon solenoid. When the high-beams are triggered, the H7 bulb functions as it should, but the bi-xenon solenoid is not triggering. There is power being fed to the high beam wire on the S2 plug. What do I need to do to ensure the solenoid triggers when the high-beam is depressed?

I'm stuck at the moment, unsure of what to do next. I have the addition white wires and small adjustment range plugs that I believe are not to be used? Any help would be appreciated. Attached is a photo of the inside of the lamp I am dealing with.

 

Sounds like you may need to check the coding.

When you say LED is flickering, do you mean it is flashing? If it is, you need to recode driver's side SAM in Developer mode (at least that is where I found it), "Standlicht als LED-modul verbaut" needs to be set to "LED-Modul"

For the Highbeam, I am not sure what is going on for you .. maybe check the CGW coding and ensure it is set to Bi-xenon also need to be done in Developer mode I think. It's been a while since I did this so can't remember every step. Mine is working OK.

 

Did you ever get the solenoid worked out so that it would work when the high beams are activated?


I just picked up n OEM factory bi-xenon and can not get the shutter to open (turn since it's round and not the traditional flap down shutter)..


Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Need help with the specs on the connectors in the top of the thread. What is the difference between the 2 listed? They both seem to be 5 pin. Are there size differences? Pin differences? I bought the 023 bushing and pins 0135457626 but these do not slip into the bushing so I think they could be wrong. I need to know which pins will fit into which housing..thanks.

 

This is definitely on my list.

 

Has anybody done this recently?

I bought Xenon lights thinking that's what I had. The return period on Ebay expired unfortunately by the time I opened the bumper up to install this weekend.

So now I think I might have to perform this conversion... my old halogens were already converted and from what I can tell they have some custom hole cut out... here take a look






Any advice appreciated.

 

I'm confused about why you need those pre crimped cables, you only show the 5 pin and 4 pin plugs being used...

 

I only see the two types of plugs used (2 for each side), are the rest of the parts just a suggestion for alternative solution???

Do I need the rest of the parts too?

2x 2115451128 - $4.48 ea << 5 pin https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ug/2115451128/
2x 0235450626 - $3.74 ea << 4 pin https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ng/0235450626/
2x CanBUS connectors 0375455928 <<<Where the hell does this go??? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ug/0375455928/
4x CanBUS pins 0005404505* <<< cable??? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...es/0005404505/
Either:
4x 0135451626 - for CanBUS to headlight - $1.62 ea - pins only need crimping
OR 4x 0005403805 $4.36 ea - pre-crimped with wire

 

I think you may be confused because this DIY is for converting from old (2003-2006) lights to 2007+ lights. It sounds like you are converting from Halogen (converted to aftermarket Xenon) to full OEM Xenon, is that correct? Also are you converting to Facelift? I am not sure what wiring you have currently. It would be good to know what you have currently and then advise you what you need. For my conversion, I was converting from Xenon (pre-facelift) to Xenon Facelift so only needed the 5 pin plug and could re-use my pins by unpinning them from the 4 pin connector.