FUEL FILTER CHANGE
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 328
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From: Huntington Beach / CA
2005 E55 (FST N OC)
FUEL FILTER CHANGE
Gents,
Can anyone direct me to a previous thread or there personal experience on changing out the fuel filter/s?
1. What mileage should it be done at?
2. Can I do it myself?
3. Cost at dealer?
Currently at 70k miles!
Thanks
Can anyone direct me to a previous thread or there personal experience on changing out the fuel filter/s?
1. What mileage should it be done at?
2. Can I do it myself?
3. Cost at dealer?
Currently at 70k miles!
Thanks
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From: Orbiting the planet
This place is a joke.
MB spec is 60k miles.
Doing it yourself, depends on your mechanical abilities. You also need a special tool to take on/off the lock rings to the senders.
Dealer charges about $800.00
Doing it yourself, depends on your mechanical abilities. You also need a special tool to take on/off the lock rings to the senders.
Dealer charges about $800.00
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Jan 6, 2014 at 09:47 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Huntington Beach / CA
2005 E55 (FST N OC)
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shrimp boat
As far as the special tool goes, a hammer and a big flat head screw driver work great. I've taken my fuel pump in and out many times I can R&R one in 30 min. It's not that hard, just don't forget any hoses.
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2004 E55 AMG; 1991 Previa
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65 Chevelle Wagon w/ C5 frame, 08 ML63, 04 S600, 04 E55,(sold) 00 ML55,(sold) 98 C43-55K Swap
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From: Orbiting the planet
This place is a joke.
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From: America
04 E55 AMG
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From: America
04 E55 AMG
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04 E55 AMG
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From: London UK
E63s s213 2019 ,SOLD E63 Weistec, E55, C36
had mine replaced last summer , equiv of $800-900 for parts, got my local mb garage to fit for $100.
both pumps have filters so both should be changed at the same time.
no point changing is they are working fine though
both pumps have filters so both should be changed at the same time.
no point changing is they are working fine though
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From: Orange County, CA.
one car at a time
Sorry, but I am a tad confused...The kits (pump, new housing, and new filter) seem to include just one side (driver side) , what about the passenger side ??
Last edited by cij911; Jan 7, 2014 at 09:40 AM.
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From: Northern VA
W211
Back in november, my car stalled while driving. Thought it was the CPS, nope, but ended up being the fuel pump (passenger side) not working and the driver side fuel filter was leaking which was replaced 16,000 miles prior at dealership. Ended up replacing both sides for about $945 for both and additional parts $40. Labor was $370 including diagnosis fee.
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From: Orange County, CA.
one car at a time
Back in november, my car stalled while driving. Thought it was the CPS, nope, but ended up being the fuel pump (passenger side) not working and the driver side fuel filter was leaking which was replaced 16,000 miles prior at dealership. Ended up replacing both sides for about $945 for both and additional parts $40. Labor was $370 including diagnosis fee.
Greasemonkey - Since you actually have done these a few times
, should folks be replacing both sides every 60K miles ?Everyone else - where do we find the passenger side kit ? Looks like the combined parts (both sides) should be ~ $700 - 1000.
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shrimp boat
The fuel pump is on the US passenger side. There are actually two pumps in two baskets. Each pump has it's own filter.
The sending unit is on the US driver side. It receive the gasoline from the pumps and send it to the engine. The sending unit also has its own filter.
The fuel pumps do go bad. The sign of that are:
-the melted electrical plug
-filters are blacken (should be white/yellowish)
If you're handy and cheap like me, you can replace the pumps and filters by using the aftermarket pumps. Thanks to chawskin I was able to retrofit two 320lph pumps in place of the stockers. This will involve some hacking of the stock baskets and ghetto rig the hoses. It's been working fine on my car for about 1k miles. Cost about $250 so I'm not sure if it worth it.
As far as the sending unit goes there is no way to tell if it's bad or not. The filter is built internally and if you open it up to check, there's no way to put it back (may be there's a way but I have not been able to). The plastic on the sending unit is very brittle. There're some reports of cracking. If you decide to work on the sending unit pay extra attention to the nipple, it's very fragile.
Hope this will help clarify things. Also, if your car still have the black sending/fuel pump seals, change them. The newest version is green.
Last edited by Forrest Gump 9; Jan 7, 2014 at 12:16 PM.
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E55, SL63, ML550
[QUOTE=Toadster;5898634]since having my pumps replaced, there's a much more pronounced 'humm' from the pumps...
Mine did that also after replacing them toad! Then even worse, the car under any load would cut out, loose all power. Wideband showed it going off the scale lean. Connected a fuel pressure gauge and saw pressure drop as soon it goes underload. Ended up replacing them again (parts warranty)and the second set is all good.
Mine did that also after replacing them toad! Then even worse, the car under any load would cut out, loose all power. Wideband showed it going off the scale lean. Connected a fuel pressure gauge and saw pressure drop as soon it goes underload. Ended up replacing them again (parts warranty)and the second set is all good.
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From: Folsom, CA
2005 E55 AMG
[QUOTE=Shifter;5899261]
ouch - that sucks!
any way to test it on the car?
since having my pumps replaced, there's a much more pronounced 'humm' from the pumps...
Mine did that also after replacing them toad! Then even worse, the car under any load would cut out, loose all power. Wideband showed it going off the scale lean. Connected a fuel pressure gauge and saw pressure drop as soon it goes underload. Ended up replacing them again (parts warranty)and the second set is all good.
Mine did that also after replacing them toad! Then even worse, the car under any load would cut out, loose all power. Wideband showed it going off the scale lean. Connected a fuel pressure gauge and saw pressure drop as soon it goes underload. Ended up replacing them again (parts warranty)and the second set is all good.
any way to test it on the car?
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14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Just like anything MB, everything is over built.
The fuel pump is on the US passenger side. There are actually two pumps in two baskets. Each pump has it's own filter.
The sending unit is on the US driver side. It receive the gasoline from the pumps and send it to the engine. The sending unit also has its own filter.
The fuel pumps do go bad. The sign of that are:
-the melted electrical plug
-filters are blacken (should be white/yellowish)
If you're handy and cheap like me, you can replace the pumps and filters by using the aftermarket pumps. Thanks to chawskin I was able to retrofit two 320lph pumps in place of the stockers. This will involve some hacking of the stock baskets and ghetto rig the hoses. It's been working fine on my car for about 1k miles. Cost about $250 so I'm not sure if it worth it.
As far as the sending unit goes there is no way to tell if it's bad or not. The filter is built internally and if you open it up to check, there's no way to put it back (may be there's a way but I have not been able to). The plastic on the sending unit is very brittle. There're some reports of cracking. If you decide to work on the sending unit pay extra attention to the nipple, it's very fragile.
Hope this will help clarify things. Also, if your car still have the black sending/fuel pump seals, change them. The newest version is green.
The fuel pump is on the US passenger side. There are actually two pumps in two baskets. Each pump has it's own filter.
The sending unit is on the US driver side. It receive the gasoline from the pumps and send it to the engine. The sending unit also has its own filter.
The fuel pumps do go bad. The sign of that are:
-the melted electrical plug
-filters are blacken (should be white/yellowish)
If you're handy and cheap like me, you can replace the pumps and filters by using the aftermarket pumps. Thanks to chawskin I was able to retrofit two 320lph pumps in place of the stockers. This will involve some hacking of the stock baskets and ghetto rig the hoses. It's been working fine on my car for about 1k miles. Cost about $250 so I'm not sure if it worth it.
As far as the sending unit goes there is no way to tell if it's bad or not. The filter is built internally and if you open it up to check, there's no way to put it back (may be there's a way but I have not been able to). The plastic on the sending unit is very brittle. There're some reports of cracking. If you decide to work on the sending unit pay extra attention to the nipple, it's very fragile.
Hope this will help clarify things. Also, if your car still have the black sending/fuel pump seals, change them. The newest version is green.
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E55 AMG on Ethanol-Meth; 600rwhp BMW M5
http://www.aemelectronics.com/high-f...uel-pumps-101/
