DGSU4EA70

Gents,

Can anyone direct me to a previous thread or there personal experience on changing out the fuel filter/s?

1. What mileage should it be done at?
2. Can I do it myself?
3. Cost at dealer?

Currently at 70k miles!

Thanks

E55Greasemonkey

MB spec is 60k miles.

Doing it yourself, depends on your mechanical abilities. You also need a special tool to take on/off the lock rings to the senders.

Dealer charges about $800.00

DGSU4EA70

$800? I guess its true it resides right on top or by the tank right? See what my indy charges. Thanks bro...

Forrest Gump 9

The fuel filters are built into the fuel pumps. The fuel pumps assembly cost about $500 from the dealer.

As far as the special tool goes, a hammer and a big flat head screw driver work great. I've taken my fuel pump in and out many times I can R&R one in 30 min. It's not that hard, just don't forget any hoses.

Toadster

both fuel senders replaced at my dealer was $2,400

biggking

That's the wholesale price of both sending units only.

stockC43

You are only changing the one with the fuel filter in it. No need to replace the fuel pumps.

E55Greasemonkey

Here we go again. The fuel filter trolls have arrived.

AMG E Power

My owners manual says 60,000 miles is when fuel filter should be changed.
I think parts . Com has them for 350 each.

E55Greasemonkey

I stand corrected. It's 5yrs/60K

MAN55LE

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...smell-fix.html

MAN55LE

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ation-diy.html

MAN55LE

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...el-filter.html good links

Alps

had mine replaced last summer , equiv of $800-900 for parts, got my local mb garage to fit for $100.

both pumps have filters so both should be changed at the same time.

no point changing is they are working fine though

cij911

Sorry, but I am a tad confused...The kits (pump, new housing, and new filter) seem to include just one side (driver side) , what about the passenger side ??

novae500

Back in november, my car stalled while driving. Thought it was the CPS, nope, but ended up being the fuel pump (passenger side) not working and the driver side fuel filter was leaking which was replaced 16,000 miles prior at dealership. Ended up replacing both sides for about $945 for both and additional parts $40. Labor was $370 including diagnosis fee.

cij911

Thanks ! I thought folks should be replacing both sides, unfortunately it appears the kits linked in the Maintenance thread, which is very helpful (made by Toadster), only shows the driver side.

Greasemonkey - Since you actually have done these a few times , should folks be replacing both sides every 60K miles ?

Everyone else - where do we find the passenger side kit ? Looks like the combined parts (both sides) should be ~ $700 - 1000.

novae500

i got mine on ecstuning. Came from MB dealer package. i didnt want to chance getting stranded again. Wasnt fun with $200 tow bill after waiting 2 hrs, over 60 miles from my house.

Forrest Gump 9

Just like anything MB, everything is over built.

The fuel pump is on the US passenger side. There are actually two pumps in two baskets. Each pump has it's own filter.

The sending unit is on the US driver side. It receive the gasoline from the pumps and send it to the engine. The sending unit also has its own filter.

The fuel pumps do go bad. The sign of that are:
-the melted electrical plug
-filters are blacken (should be white/yellowish)
If you're handy and cheap like me, you can replace the pumps and filters by using the aftermarket pumps. Thanks to chawskin I was able to retrofit two 320lph pumps in place of the stockers. This will involve some hacking of the stock baskets and ghetto rig the hoses. It's been working fine on my car for about 1k miles. Cost about $250 so I'm not sure if it worth it.

As far as the sending unit goes there is no way to tell if it's bad or not. The filter is built internally and if you open it up to check, there's no way to put it back (may be there's a way but I have not been able to). The plastic on the sending unit is very brittle. There're some reports of cracking. If you decide to work on the sending unit pay extra attention to the nipple, it's very fragile.

Hope this will help clarify things. Also, if your car still have the black sending/fuel pump seals, change them. The newest version is green.

Toadster

since having my pumps replaced, there's a much more pronounced 'humm' from the pumps...

it's somewhat annoying

Shifter

[QUOTE=Toadster;5898634]since having my pumps replaced, there's a much more pronounced 'humm' from the pumps...

Mine did that also after replacing them toad! Then even worse, the car under any load would cut out, loose all power. Wideband showed it going off the scale lean. Connected a fuel pressure gauge and saw pressure drop as soon it goes underload. Ended up replacing them again (parts warranty)and the second set is all good.

Toadster

[QUOTE=Shifter;5899261]ouch - that sucks!

any way to test it on the car?

WANTED!!

Whose pumps did you use and do you have any pics of the modification? I was thinking about doing something like this anyway.

BI-Performance

We used these pumps brotha, the E85 versions but the black is ok for regular pump:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/high-f...uel-pumps-101/

Joncl

Craig do you have to put one on each side?