HELP Checked my rear battery 13.1V is that bad
#1
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HELP Checked my rear battery 13.1V is that bad
My car has always been like that. 13.1V sometimes 13.2V when I turn that car on and I don't use the components the voltage reading goes up to 13.5V Is this normal. Even at 12.9V or 13V our w211 E55 should still start up with np right.
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2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
Anything in the 12.5 ish range or higher would be enough to kick her over I would think. Our Compression ratios aren't that high, although you have to turn the Supercharger to crank. I CAN tell you that if your voltage regulator goes out, you can get stuck. Saturday night I stopped at the gas station to grab some mixers. I come back out and the car just cranks but doesn't light. My dome lights and dash had been glowing in and out for a couple of months, which was a sign of the voltage regulator going, but I just hadn't gotten around to it. I disconnected the battery for a minute, then re-attached and started my car. Drove her home and replaced the voltage regulator. Haven't had a lick of problems so far now. Before the regulator, I was watching my Aeroforce and the battery would swing wildly from 13.1 to 15.8.. doh! Glad I finally got it fixed this weekend.
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Normal voltage with no accessories on at idle should be close to 14.1 or 14.2, with everything turned on heater, and such the voltage should still be close to 14 if the regulator is good and the alternator is able to pump out full power. 13.5V is showing signs of regulator issues or underperforming alternator. Check the battery voltage in the morning after no use, it should read 12.4- 12.6V , lower the value than 12.4 shows a battery less than 100% charged or failing battery. With the recent cold snap everyone seems to be getting a weak battery will reveal itself and leave you stranded. If battery is over 5 years or suffered from being run flat a couple of times then a new battery is warranted. A weak battery is hard on the charging system, for the 55 owners also check voltage at the front battery,( your brakes depend on it) when off. Happy Motoring. If in doubt leave the headlights on for 5-10 minutes then try to start the car.
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Anything in the 12.5 ish range or higher would be enough to kick her over I would think. Our Compression ratios aren't that high, although you have to turn the Supercharger to crank. I CAN tell you that if your voltage regulator goes out, you can get stuck. Saturday night I stopped at the gas station to grab some mixers. I come back out and the car just cranks but doesn't light. My dome lights and dash had been glowing in and out for a couple of months, which was a sign of the voltage regulator going, but I just hadn't gotten around to it. I disconnected the battery for a minute, then re-attached and started my car. Drove her home and replaced the voltage regulator. Haven't had a lick of problems so far now. Before the regulator, I was watching my Aeroforce and the battery would swing wildly from 13.1 to 15.8.. doh! Glad I finally got it fixed this weekend.
https://www.google.com/search?q=wdbuf76j46a864057&gl=us&site=images&sourc e=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=kz7DUvLNKYbqoAS-6IH4Dw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAA&biw=320&bih=444#biv=i%7C0%3 Bd%7C8diy4AHL5CSn1M%3A
I was on text with the the person selling it just to make sure that I got all the info. Part arrives thus Thursday.
Before all that I kept trying to starting the car (I'm an idiot) hoping for a miracle. But It got worse later on it said BATTERY/ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP
I am saving up money for business reason so whst I did was I bought a battery charger for $50 at Walmart and charged my battery. Took 9hrs started with 8V fully charged at 14.2V than went down to 13.2V and stayed der. $50 compared to 200 for the just the battery. If you read all this I appreciated it
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Now get the battery load tested, 13.2V is too high a value, the voltage will degrade over time so check it out 24 hours later. Even though the voltage shows good this does not ensure a good battery. What did the front battery show for voltage. 8 volts would maybe get the car to click that is all and dash lights would be slow to illuminate. You may not be out of the woods yet.
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Normal voltage with no accessories on at idle should be close to 14.1 or 14.2, with everything turned on heater, and such the voltage should still be close to 14 if the regulator is good and the alternator is able to pump out full power. 13.5V is showing signs of regulator issues or underperforming alternator. Check the battery voltage in the morning after no use, it should read 12.4- 12.6V , lower the value than 12.4 shows a battery less than 100% charged or failing battery. With the recent cold snap everyone seems to be getting a weak battery will reveal itself and leave you stranded. If battery is over 5 years or suffered from being run flat a couple of times then a new battery is warranted. A weak battery is hard on the charging system, for the 55 owners also check voltage at the front battery,( your brakes depend on it) when off. Happy Motoring. If in doubt leave the headlights on for 5-10 minutes then try to start the car.
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Now get the battery load tested, 13.2V is too high a value, the voltage will degrade over time so check it out 24 hours later. Even though the voltage shows good this does not ensure a good battery. What did the front battery show for voltage. 8 volts would maybe get the car to click that is all and dash lights would be slow to illuminate. You may not be out of the woods yet.
Last edited by E55AMG05; 01-07-2014 at 01:06 PM.
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
If you are reading 13V then you either have one of the best batteries ever made or your meter is wonky. Leave the headlights on for ten minutes then try to start, that is all that really matters.
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Thanks the brand of the battery is Deka and the part NO. Is 649MF. I used my meter both the car and my meter read 13V Np. Defiantly the meter is not wonky guess your right good battery
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2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
A fresh battery can read 13 and change, but the normal RESTING voltage is in the 12-12.7 range. It's a 12 Volt battery after all. You can overcharge them and they will hold the extra charge for a small while, but they will always return to their normal ranges. I was big into car stereo back in the day and realized you could "hot load" batteries to 17+ volts for brief amounts of time, which is all you needed in an SPL contest. After time though, they always came down to 12-ish whether you hit them with a load or not. In any case, good luck with the alternator replacement. You said the alternator came off an 81K mile car. Not to jinx you, but my voltage regulator went out at 82k on Saturday LOL!
If you have pulsing gauge cluster, or your interior lights pulse when you open a door, it's the regulator.
If you have pulsing gauge cluster, or your interior lights pulse when you open a door, it's the regulator.
Last edited by typhoon43; 01-07-2014 at 03:39 PM.
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#20
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Damn that would be great I hope so. I just need my current battery and all components to last until summer because that's when I'll be financially comfortable. Ill change both batteries np and do the regular maintenance and anything else that is needed extra. Right now I just need to save up and go to work(A) and back home(B) I don't have a second car yet. Planning to purchase one in the summer np. W212 E350 black on black
#21
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A fresh battery can read 13 and change, but the normal RESTING voltage is in the 12-12.7 range. It's a 12 Volt battery after all. You can overcharge them and they will hold the extra charge for a small while, but they will always return to their normal ranges. I was big into car stereo back in the day and realized you could "hot load" batteries to 17+ volts for brief amounts of time, which is all you needed in an SPL contest. After time though, they always came down to 12-ish whether you hit them with a load or not. In any case, good luck with the alternator replacement. You said the alternator came off an 81K mile car. Not to jinx you, but my voltage regulator went out at 82k on Saturday LOL!
If you have pulsing gauge cluster, or your interior lights pulse when you open a door, it's the regulator.
If you have pulsing gauge cluster, or your interior lights pulse when you open a door, it's the regulator.
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OK, so new regulator on the 81k alternator? THAT sounds like a plan man. You should be good to go with that.
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#23
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I still don't understand so I got the alternator installed it np. Alternator works it's been two days since I installed the alternator. just now while i was DRIVING my dash says "convention functions temporary unavailable" so I turned my radio off and the headlights. 10 min later I get the message "convention functions available" idk what's going on
#25
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No not yet. I was just testing the alternator. FedEx is taking too long to shipp I payed for 2nd day shipping been 4 days do far. Maybe it's the battery because the voltage regulator has good brushes