New pump
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 35
shrimp boat
New pump
In case anyone looking for a new ic pump, I found this little gem
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liquid-Heat-Exchanger-Water-to-Air-Intercooler-Ultrahigh-Flow-12v-Pump-EMP-WP29-/291022558579?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c24bd573&vxp=mtr
It'll require some modifications to work on our car, but I think it'll be worth it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Liquid-Heat-Exchanger-Water-to-Air-Intercooler-Ultrahigh-Flow-12v-Pump-EMP-WP29-/291022558579?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c24bd573&vxp=mtr
It'll require some modifications to work on our car, but I think it'll be worth it.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 160
2006 E55
I am going to read this item's description every time I want a good laugh.
I kept saying to myself ... "what?....wait, what?"
Single best intercooler pump out there!!! Hands down!
Most cooler systems run around 8-12 psi ( head pressure@pump based on hose size/length & cooler restrictions) Bosch or Vortech flow less than 3 gal a minute. This pump will pump more than 20 gal/min at higher pressure, so its barely hindered by plumbing or restrictions at all.
You intake temperature is based on the average of water temp in/ water temp out of cooler. Example: I tested this on Vortech SC 600WHP@8psi 3.2L Acura V6 if your water temp into cooler is 100F and your cooler outlet is 140F, your air temp in intercooler air temp should be around 120F. (if you have a somewhat efficient IC core.) Vortech/Spearco etc.
If you speed water up, without changing anything else, your water temp in will still be 100F but your outlet temp will be "say" 105F. this would make air temp 102.5F! This is a 15F deg net improvement, for me that translated into 20-30WHP
With this pump I was able to get system 95% effective. meaning: I can get ride of 95% of the difference between your boost (hot) air temp and what you can keep the inlet (cold) water temp.
My personal turbo Audi: with air/water coolers @ 28psi (hot) air temp was (recorded) 395F, I was able to sustain cooler/chiller water temp around 92F on a normal 85F day. (that # can change based on size/btu capacity of your "chiller" rad core) I was measuring cooler air outlet temp at 110F and 116F in actual intake manifold. Thats pretty outstanding for high boost application! Most would be lucky to be under 160F IMT and that's not reliable to me.
If your running higher boost, your water outlet temps will be much hotter. (I've seen +180F ) your improvement would be much greater than I saw... also, if you can get air temps down, you can turn boost up even more...
Perfect for mid-engine cars, where your pumping to front and back again. I've seen pressure losses 12-15 psi. Recommend 1" hose
I have used these pumps to cool many engines all by themselves. (up to 300Hp)
Pump can easily be controlled by can-bus, temperature switch or simple toggle, up to you.
Feel free to seek application advise.
I kept saying to myself ... "what?....wait, what?"
Single best intercooler pump out there!!! Hands down!
Most cooler systems run around 8-12 psi ( head pressure@pump based on hose size/length & cooler restrictions) Bosch or Vortech flow less than 3 gal a minute. This pump will pump more than 20 gal/min at higher pressure, so its barely hindered by plumbing or restrictions at all.
You intake temperature is based on the average of water temp in/ water temp out of cooler. Example: I tested this on Vortech SC 600WHP@8psi 3.2L Acura V6 if your water temp into cooler is 100F and your cooler outlet is 140F, your air temp in intercooler air temp should be around 120F. (if you have a somewhat efficient IC core.) Vortech/Spearco etc.
If you speed water up, without changing anything else, your water temp in will still be 100F but your outlet temp will be "say" 105F. this would make air temp 102.5F! This is a 15F deg net improvement, for me that translated into 20-30WHP
With this pump I was able to get system 95% effective. meaning: I can get ride of 95% of the difference between your boost (hot) air temp and what you can keep the inlet (cold) water temp.
My personal turbo Audi: with air/water coolers @ 28psi (hot) air temp was (recorded) 395F, I was able to sustain cooler/chiller water temp around 92F on a normal 85F day. (that # can change based on size/btu capacity of your "chiller" rad core) I was measuring cooler air outlet temp at 110F and 116F in actual intake manifold. Thats pretty outstanding for high boost application! Most would be lucky to be under 160F IMT and that's not reliable to me.
If your running higher boost, your water outlet temps will be much hotter. (I've seen +180F ) your improvement would be much greater than I saw... also, if you can get air temps down, you can turn boost up even more...
Perfect for mid-engine cars, where your pumping to front and back again. I've seen pressure losses 12-15 psi. Recommend 1" hose
I have used these pumps to cool many engines all by themselves. (up to 300Hp)
Pump can easily be controlled by can-bus, temperature switch or simple toggle, up to you.
Feel free to seek application advise.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 35
shrimp boat
I know that's if the water flow too fast could be bad too. but I'm kinda intrigue by this pump, and my front pump is weakening. I'll try it and see what happen. I heard it work extremely well on the cts-v.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 12
From: West
2005 E55 Wagon
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 35
shrimp boat
