LOL yes, you're right - I just checked the box

losing my mind today

 

Steering linkage has to be disconnected

Battery has to be disconnect since you are working close to the starter and alternator

Most hard bolt to get to is the passenger side lower ones by the alternator

Cut right after cats. Best thing to do is install headers and put the rear section in a truck and drive to an exhaust shop you can zip tie rear o2 for the drive

You will need the passenger side gasket to the resonator they always break

 

Definitely have an extra oxygen sensor bung welded in so that way you can log for a wideband later on without having to do any extra work..... ++++gear wrench!

 

It takes brass nuts to do the install? I guess that leaves me out.

 

Just Pay 4-500 bucks to have it done save yourself a headache

 

Good advice.

I actually have Kleemannesk shorty headers on my SL. They came from EvoSport though. And yes, I paid for the install.

 

+1 on the O2 sensor bungs … but why are you pulling the headers to put in the bungs? just disconnect after headers and drill holes in the down pipe area, start the engine after install to blow the shavings out and listen to the loud headers.

 

I was told the bung needed to be 12in from the last bank and try to keep the sensor vertical... I bought two sensors for each side ....gunna do it with the meth and zt2 blah blah blah

 

That's what I'm doing - but I don't think he's done the Kleemans before so trying to get some reference pics

 

Well ... I have installed them further away than that with no issues. 18"-24" or so Just make sure they are not lower than 3 O'clock position in the pipe.

 

Got my kleemans headers for valentines Day so I'm going to do my install soon.Was wondering if I should eliminate cats and resonators?

 

probably a simpler install to just go straight back from the headers to the resonator, not sure if you want to pull the resonator if you're also pulling the 2ndary cats - you'll be awful loud and drone...

 

what if i'd want to put back to stock someday? still cut right after the primaries? also, how loud is the car when you drive to the muffler shop?

 

What should I do if the car only has the primary's?Should I leave them or take them out?Also why does everyone put in a X pipe instead of straight pipe?

 

you have to remove the primaries to install kleemans - x-pipe helps to scavenge exhaust air and optimises air flow between the exhaust banks and can promote a few extra HP - straight pipe works as well but louder than x-pipe (usually)

 

I see everyone reusing the studs, why not order more from Mercedes? When I installed the headers in my M3 everyone recommended using new studs when they came out

 

i used all new

 

this man knows whats up, why dick around with the old ones when you just put the new ones in before the headers go in.

 

I said around post 8 or 9 that I replaced everything.... Toad, I used to worry about going back to stock all the time. Not a single one of my cars has ever made it back to stock

 

Done yet? You've spent more time posting than it takes to do the job. Get 'er done!

 

seriously

 

my apologies... this man knows whats up too...

its true toadster fashion... hem and hawing more than the labor involved to do something

 

That's better! ... LOL

Time to get 'er done Toadster ... save your fingers for loosening and tightening those nuts ... referring to the ones on the headers!

 

Toad, install it after you do your registration/smog. It will last other 2 years...

 

yup, got smogged in December - my primary tech is moving to Texas...
so I have a referral to a new guy but he's never seen the Kleeman setup - just looking for photos for a setup including the 2ndardy cats......