best method to remove oil pan
#1
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2005 E55
best method to remove oil pan
I have found I have a small leak at my oil pan. I know this is not a quick fix. Reading through the archives I cant find a lot of information on this procedure. what is the simplest method to get access to the pan? engine removal? sub frame drop? are there any tips on doing this as easy as possible? also. is there a pan gasket? or just use RTV?
thx
thx
Last edited by nowak32; 04-22-2014 at 10:07 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
Oil pan factory instructions
I've never done the repair, but for what it's worth, here's some factory instructions on the oil pan. As you have a W211, and 113.990 engine, only follow each step that applies. If it states for a different model, you can skip the step.
There's the main oil pan (I'm assuming that's what's leaking in yours) and the secondary pan (sump pump).
Looks like a huge PITA. Good luck.
There's the main oil pan (I'm assuming that's what's leaking in yours) and the secondary pan (sump pump).
Looks like a huge PITA. Good luck.
#3
And per factory instructions, it appears to be a type of Permatex black RTV. I've attached instructions for the lower oil pan and the upper oil pan. Probably the lower is all that you need to follow.
Again, if a service step has no model listed, you need to follow it. If a step lists your model, you need to follow it. If a step lists other models, but not your model, then you can skip. The WIS instructions aren't the most clear, but that should help you figure out what you need to do or can skip.
Again, if a service step has no model listed, you need to follow it. If a step lists your model, you need to follow it. If a step lists other models, but not your model, then you can skip. The WIS instructions aren't the most clear, but that should help you figure out what you need to do or can skip.
Last edited by amg_w211; 04-22-2014 at 11:00 PM.
#4
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The E55 has two piece pan set up, so it depends on what part of the pan is leaking (upper or lower). If it is the lower pan, then you should be able to lift the engine up with and engine hoist and remove the lower pan. The pans do not have a gasket, just sealant and this is time consuming part. I use only MB sealant, as the job takes to long to mess around with other sealants. You also need a good quality spray on gasket remover and all old sealant material must be removed and surface cleaned! If you get one drop of oil on the sealant surface, you will have a leak again.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
#5
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2006 E55
I had to lower my subframe when I pulled both pans to replace my oil pump. I agree about using the mb sealant and be sure the mating surfaces are spotless and oil free for best results.
#6
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2005 SL55, 2010 E550
I think my car has the same problem. HMy Machanic told me he will charge me $2300 for the job. He said the oil leak is from main oil pan. Or something like that. From v belt section . The engine needs to be removed from the car . But I have e63 . I am not sure if it is the same thing . Does anybody know what should be the right price for this type job . Do we really have to remove the engine? To be frankly, I have never heard of any car needs to remove the whole engine to stop the oil leak. Any input will be helpful to me. Thanks
#7
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I just did this last night, I used screwdrivers as wedges and very carefully worked my way around until it popped loose. (sub frame out) Don't force it, that pan looks expensive.
Don't be afraid to sharpen a $10 screwdriver. Had to loosen the transmission line clamps for one tab in the way.
I plan on resealing with Yamabond4. It won't leak and it will be removable again. I'm not impressed with MB sealer since it didn't work from the factory, especially on my valve cover breathers. Yamabond4 will survive heat, vibration, gasoline, and pressure all at once.(two stroke dirt bike engines)
Don't be afraid to sharpen a $10 screwdriver. Had to loosen the transmission line clamps for one tab in the way.
I plan on resealing with Yamabond4. It won't leak and it will be removable again. I'm not impressed with MB sealer since it didn't work from the factory, especially on my valve cover breathers. Yamabond4 will survive heat, vibration, gasoline, and pressure all at once.(two stroke dirt bike engines)
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#8
the only thing i have to add is my opinion on sealant... i use Ford Powerstroke grey engine sealant... around $15 at the dealer for a half sized caulking tube... it is BADASS... i even have some mercedes technician friends of mine using it...
#9
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2005 SL55, 2010 E550
I just did this last night, I used screwdrivers as wedges and very carefully worked my way around until it popped loose. (sub frame out) Don't force it, that pan looks expensive.
Don't be afraid to sharpen a $10 screwdriver. Had to loosen the transmission line clamps for one tab in the way.
I plan on resealing with Yamabond4. It won't leak and it will be removable again. I'm not impressed with MB sealer since it didn't work from the factory, especially on my valve cover breathers. Yamabond4 will survive heat, vibration, gasoline, and pressure all at once.(two stroke dirt bike engines)
Don't be afraid to sharpen a $10 screwdriver. Had to loosen the transmission line clamps for one tab in the way.
I plan on resealing with Yamabond4. It won't leak and it will be removable again. I'm not impressed with MB sealer since it didn't work from the factory, especially on my valve cover breathers. Yamabond4 will survive heat, vibration, gasoline, and pressure all at once.(two stroke dirt bike engines)
#10
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2005 SL55, 2010 E550
I've never done the repair, but for what it's worth, here's some factory instructions on the oil pan. As you have a W211, and 113.990 engine, only follow each step that applies. If it states for a different model, you can skip the step.
There's the main oil pan (I'm assuming that's what's leaking in yours) and the secondary pan (sump pump).
Looks like a huge PITA. Good luck.
There's the main oil pan (I'm assuming that's what's leaking in yours) and the secondary pan (sump pump).
Looks like a huge PITA. Good luck.
Do you have the instruction how to remove E63 oil pan? Thanks
#11
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2005 SL55, 2010 E550
oil leak picture
I have uploaded lots of picture. this is the oil leak from from oil pan. can anybody help me to identify if this is the same leak what you guys talking about? Thanks> it looks like the main oil leak is from part number. A1560140902. Also the black color oil pan close to transmission either.
#14
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Not sure what you are waiting for, both your pans leak. Your options are fix them or don't fix them. It doesn't match mine because mine didn't leak, I pulled it off purely out of curiosity, and to see if I could fix the chain. If you have a specific question about how to fix it I'll be glad to help if I can.
#15
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It's a pain:reward ratio. If the pain (or cost) of fixing it exceeds the reward of the knowing it's fixed, leave it alone. It's pretty easy to put a little oil in the filler once in a while. (if it's even that bad).
Seems like a good project for a rainy weekend. (or drink beer and forget it).
Seems like a good project for a rainy weekend. (or drink beer and forget it).
![Wootrock](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wootrock.gif)
#16
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2005 SL55, 2010 E550
Not sure what you are waiting for, both your pans leak. Your options are fix them or don't fix them. It doesn't match mine because mine didn't leak, I pulled it off purely out of curiosity, and to see if I could fix the chain. If you have a specific question about how to fix it I'll be glad to help if I can.
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2005 SL55, 2010 E550
It's a pain:reward ratio. If the pain (or cost) of fixing it exceeds the reward of the knowing it's fixed, leave it alone. It's pretty easy to put a little oil in the filler once in a while. (if it's even that bad).
Seems like a good project for a rainy weekend. (or drink beer and forget it).![Wootrock](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wootrock.gif)
Seems like a good project for a rainy weekend. (or drink beer and forget it).
![Wootrock](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wootrock.gif)
#18
This does not look like a take a day or two on a weekend and do it. Drive to work Monday. If you are as busy as you claim, you may have to plan on not driving it for a week or two and work on it as you have time.