Alex L

Guys,

My 55k block is going to be back from an engine specialist in the next week or two - re-honed and balanced with Weistec forged pistons, heads ported. In theory the engine should be run in for about 1,000 mls but since I was going to bolt the Weistec blower, it would have to go on a dyno for a tune, if not the same day, then the day after.

My dilemma is if it goes on a dyno, it will be driven hard, even if for a short while. Not good as the engine won't be run in?

If I chose to run it in first, even with a safe map (no dyno), I won't know what mixture is going to be like. 1,000 miles is a bit of a distance. Do I risk it or not?

Do I tune and then run in? What's everyone's opinion/experience on this?

Thanks.

C3Duece

Don't sweat it. Engine builders usually break new motors are in on the dyno

austingtir

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Iv done it like this but on the road for sr20det engines in the past nothing wrong with them. Drive it normally/hard with cooling periods between and you cant go wrong imo.

I just think of it like the rings are the only part that you have to be careful with the rest of it shouldnt be wearing as such.

Max.H

Get a base map and drive it around in manual mode. Do a lot of start and stop driving, varying the rpm, in manual mode accelerate as you normally would and let the engine decelerate on its own.. Let the car run to full operating temperature. Shut off and let cool down completely. Repeat a few times change the oil and filter. Head to the dyno. You're golden.

Alex L

Thanks guys. There appears to be 2 schools of thoughts on this. For the first 1k miles I'm inclined to drive it normally, not like I stole it. Then I'll do a fine map on a dyno.

Exotic-metal55

The main thing, is you need the rings to seat. So you need to drive normal and vary the speed for at least 500 miles. A lot of how rings seat, can depend on the engine build , what type of bore coatings, what type of hone work was done and clearances that everything was set up. Better to be safe than , just throw it on the dyno and hammer 600 plus hp on it.

blackbenzz

I know plenty of people that throw the car on the dyno as soon as the motor is put in. But do whatever makes you feel safe. Everyone will have their own opinion. Maybe ask the engine builder what he/she recommends since he is the one that built it. And please put a wideband in the car

Alex L

Noted with thanks. The balancing shop recommends normal driving but without the dyno for the first 500-1000 miles, so I'm going to follow that.

Is wideband a monitor for the AFR? What should I get - LC2? Never used one before, sorry.

Hulk

Zeitronix zt-2 and get the dashdaq with it to monitor and log at the push of a button

blackbenzz

Yes wideband will allow you to monitor AFR and get what Hulk said

chiromikey

Rings seat with load, accel and decel. Breaking in a motor on a load bearing dyno is a better way to seat the rings than street driving.

AMS_Performance

This is how we break in all motors here from: MB, GT-R, Audi, EVO, STI, Porsche Etc

Using AMSoil break in oil we run the car at varrying engine speeds (no WOT) for 20 miles. at that point we remove the filter (dont drain the oil) and cut the filter in half to inspect the filter element for metal deposits. Following that we run the car on the dyno again at varrying engine speeds for about 100miles... no wide open throttle. After this we do a full engine oil oil change then put another 100 miles as above. Following this we do another oil change followed by full tuning.

Obviously on the 55k you just need to remove the filter element and tear it apart as it only has a replacement filter element and reusable filter housing.

Eric

Sir-Boost-a-Lot

iTrader: (1)

Not much is needed to break in rings on an engine with Alusil bores. From a metallurgical perspective I like to see a few cycles of operating temp/ambient temp before ripping on the engine.

BlownV8

Is the engine bore coated, pistons coated, or was it sleeved? Do you know what they used on the pistons or bores? If not done correctly, the rebuilt engine won't last long at all before you start seeing major issues.

The correct pistons for an Alusil engine are very expensive unless you had the block Nikasil coated. Did they try to use JE or some other brand and have them coated? What did they use?

Alex L

Thanks, I'll look into it.

Thanks, running in in a controlled environment would probably be ideal but I need to do some research to see if there is a specialist around here that can do that.

Thank you Eric, very informative. I believe the shop will supply some special oil for the run-in too. Perhaps, it is common sense but this is the first time I'm doing this so appreciate your input.

Thanks, that makes perfect sense.

The block wasn't recoated or linings changed. They were only honed to create patterns for the rings to bed. I will know (and ask) more when I pick up the block next week.

Thanks again.

Exotic-metal55

Glad your balancer directed you to a 500 plus varible driving procedure.

Here is a really good read for you on Alusil bore material, honing techniques , etc. It takes a special hone technique to hone alusil correctly.

http://www.kspg.com/fileadmin/media/...sil_audi_e.pdf

Alex L

The DashDAQ bundle is out of stock with indefinite leadtime. It looked like a cool bit of kit though! The next best option is Zt-2 + LCD. Is it good enough for AFR and EGT?

Thanks

Hulk

Zt-2 with LCD is ok but you can't log iming and iat, and you can not log without the laptop
Buy time separately if you can't get the bundle, actually there are a few for sale on eBay

Alex L

I've asked Zeitronix if any of their distributors had any stock on hand and they said no. I'll check with ebay sellers to see if they have physical stock.

I've also tried looking for the DashDAQ to see if it's available as a separate product but e-motionproducts won't even list their phone numbers on the website!

Is there anything better than Zt-2 out there?

Thanks again.

Hulk

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zeitronix-Zt...-/291125451368

This seller says he has 2 available, also try to offer him shipping included or whatever

Alex L

Apparently, not a stock item. They have to order it in from Zeitronix. Worst case I can go with LCD and hook up a laptop for logging.

Alex L

Picked up the block today. The cylinders were crosshatched very gently using the correct stone. The diameter didn't change.

Anyone can recommend some good run in oil? I've heard it must be mineral.

Some pics of the block:

blackbenzz

That looks really nice Alex!You will get differing opinions on the oil again so just check with what the builder recommends. That way they have nothing to point at if anything should happen (hopefully it won't)

Hulk

Looks great bud! I agree go with what the builder says

Alex L

Thanks guys. The builder can supply some mineral oil no problem but we both want to make sure it is the best oil for the Alusil bore. He tried to get in touch with a mfr of Alusil equipment but to no avail. In the meantime, I've asked the main dealer and they are clueless so I thought I'd ask here.