Airmatic problems -- extremely hard ride -- help
08-24-2015, 05:10 PM
#26
I have a similar experience and I'm stunned that it's so hard to find a working solution. My E55 was hit dead on the driver side rear rim by someone. Not a single scratch or anything to the body or frame. The part that needed to be replaced was the rim and the part where the axial is going trough.
Since then the ride is hard and stiff like Sport 2 mode in any modes (Comfort, Sport 1/2, raised).
I also noticed that both rear tires literally sink into the wheel house after it is parked for 3-4 days.
Any ideas where to start before paying stealer ships to do their trial and error work?
I checked the error memory with SD and no errors to start with.
Since then the ride is hard and stiff like Sport 2 mode in any modes (Comfort, Sport 1/2, raised).
I also noticed that both rear tires literally sink into the wheel house after it is parked for 3-4 days.
Any ideas where to start before paying stealer ships to do their trial and error work?
I checked the error memory with SD and no errors to start with.
Last edited by Mackhack; 08-24-2015 at 05:17 PM.
08-25-2015, 05:42 AM
#27
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ML350 (W164), S320 (W220), C200k (W203), E220 (W115)
Problem solved- to quite an extent
My ride has become quite OK- turns out it was my Airmatic valve block which was faulty which was causing the car to lean. (and which killed the cushioning effect of the air springs)
Very interestingly, it passed all leakage tests through Star Diagnostics; I found the problem when i was manually trying to level the car out.
The way I noticed the problem was this- I tried inflating and deflating each side independently, and whenever i was inflating any side, the front right level would also raise a bit, and whenever I deflated any side, the front right level would fall quite fast.
On checking through SD, no leakage was found as the leak was not out into the atmosphere but within the system and the tests don't seem to check for this.
Anyway, as of now the lower arm bushes need to be changed which i will be doing in mid September. I will post pics of the same once its done. (The ride is comfortable but I'm getting a characteristic clanking sound of broken bushes)
Part numbers on order:
Front suspension bush rebuild:
A 164 333 03 14 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
A 164 333 04 14 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
A 164 330 07 43 - Control arm bush and aluminium housing (1 unit)
A 164 330 08 43 - Control arm bush and aluminium housing (1 Unit)
Rear suspension bush rebuild:
A 164 352 01 65 - Control arm bush (2 per side)
A 164 326 06 81 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
I have decided not to change the bushes on the upper control arms as I intend on replacing the control arms along with the bushes as an assembly shortly.
Very interestingly, it passed all leakage tests through Star Diagnostics; I found the problem when i was manually trying to level the car out.
The way I noticed the problem was this- I tried inflating and deflating each side independently, and whenever i was inflating any side, the front right level would also raise a bit, and whenever I deflated any side, the front right level would fall quite fast.
On checking through SD, no leakage was found as the leak was not out into the atmosphere but within the system and the tests don't seem to check for this.
Anyway, as of now the lower arm bushes need to be changed which i will be doing in mid September. I will post pics of the same once its done. (The ride is comfortable but I'm getting a characteristic clanking sound of broken bushes)
Part numbers on order:
Front suspension bush rebuild:
A 164 333 03 14 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
A 164 333 04 14 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
A 164 330 07 43 - Control arm bush and aluminium housing (1 unit)
A 164 330 08 43 - Control arm bush and aluminium housing (1 Unit)
Rear suspension bush rebuild:
A 164 352 01 65 - Control arm bush (2 per side)
A 164 326 06 81 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
I have decided not to change the bushes on the upper control arms as I intend on replacing the control arms along with the bushes as an assembly shortly.
The following users liked this post:
MyNewHooker (01-05-2018)
08-25-2015, 10:48 AM
#28
I did all the testing too. All 4 sides have the same pressure, the compressor test finished in 14 seconds out of max 40 seconds to go over 14 bar. The valves have the same electrical values when tested.
I have a feeling the the valve block has something on my car too or the T-splitter.
Internet in my phone is too slow to upload pictures of the wheels showing how low they were after 3 days and after 4 days.
I have a feeling the the valve block has something on my car too or the T-splitter.
Internet in my phone is too slow to upload pictures of the wheels showing how low they were after 3 days and after 4 days.
01-05-2018, 11:46 PM
#30
Junior Member
My ride has become quite OK- turns out it was my Airmatic valve block which was faulty which was causing the car to lean. (and which killed the cushioning effect of the air springs)
Very interestingly, it passed all leakage tests through Star Diagnostics; I found the problem when i was manually trying to level the car out.
The way I noticed the problem was this- I tried inflating and deflating each side independently, and whenever i was inflating any side, the front right level would also raise a bit, and whenever I deflated any side, the front right level would fall quite fast.
On checking through SD, no leakage was found as the leak was not out into the atmosphere but within the system and the tests don't seem to check for this.
Anyway, as of now the lower arm bushes need to be changed which i will be doing in mid September. I will post pics of the same once its done. (The ride is comfortable but I'm getting a characteristic clanking sound of broken bushes)
Part numbers on order:
Front suspension bush rebuild:
A 164 333 03 14 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
A 164 333 04 14 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
A 164 330 07 43 - Control arm bush and aluminium housing (1 unit)
A 164 330 08 43 - Control arm bush and aluminium housing (1 Unit)
Rear suspension bush rebuild:
A 164 352 01 65 - Control arm bush (2 per side)
A 164 326 06 81 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
I have decided not to change the bushes on the upper control arms as I intend on replacing the control arms along with the bushes as an assembly shortly.
Very interestingly, it passed all leakage tests through Star Diagnostics; I found the problem when i was manually trying to level the car out.
The way I noticed the problem was this- I tried inflating and deflating each side independently, and whenever i was inflating any side, the front right level would also raise a bit, and whenever I deflated any side, the front right level would fall quite fast.
On checking through SD, no leakage was found as the leak was not out into the atmosphere but within the system and the tests don't seem to check for this.
Anyway, as of now the lower arm bushes need to be changed which i will be doing in mid September. I will post pics of the same once its done. (The ride is comfortable but I'm getting a characteristic clanking sound of broken bushes)
Part numbers on order:
Front suspension bush rebuild:
A 164 333 03 14 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
A 164 333 04 14 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
A 164 330 07 43 - Control arm bush and aluminium housing (1 unit)
A 164 330 08 43 - Control arm bush and aluminium housing (1 Unit)
Rear suspension bush rebuild:
A 164 352 01 65 - Control arm bush (2 per side)
A 164 326 06 81 - Control arm bush (1 per side)
I have decided not to change the bushes on the upper control arms as I intend on replacing the control arms along with the bushes as an assembly shortly.
The following users liked this post:
jevlar (05-26-2018)
09-28-2018, 04:33 PM
#33
nothing, car have old 3232 module, by advice of mercedes dealer I replace it with 4232, by mercedes docs it's resolvs front struts problem, only strange that by EPC it should be 4132, seems update or something
UPDATE: I found that 4232 it's from gl500
UPDATE: I found that 4232 it's from gl500
Last edited by Viktori; 09-28-2018 at 04:43 PM.
07-09-2019, 12:47 PM
#35
Junior Member
Posting in the e55 section because the w164 forum is dead. The airmatic system in my ml63 is pretty similar to the e55 so maybe someone here can help me. Recently I noticed the ride in my 2007 ml63 is extremely hard and uncomfortable. My lowered e55 on 20" wheels was way more compliant over rough surfaces.. The ml rides like a skateboard. There is no difference between sport/comfort/raised/normal in the suspension settings, they all ride really hard. The first thing I tried was hook it up to STAR and test the various airmatic components. Everything checks out fine and there are no faults:
Then I did a visual check of the springs/shocks/ air lines. It looked fine except the rear shocks which were leaking, so I replaced them with new OEM mercedes shocks.
The ride is still extremely hard. I did however get this message a few days ago, but it hasn't appeared since then (I've never seen this error before in the ~6 months I've had this problem):
At this point I'm leaning towards a ESP/airmatic/ADS module problem. Various searches revealed different solutions ranging from replacing the valve block/front shocks/computer but I don't want to start replacing random parts hoping to fix it yet. Is there a way in STAR developer to reset the airmatic or ads module? I played around in STAR a bit and managed to soften the damping through the actuations in the STAR developer menus but it doesn't hold the settings when you start the car. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Then I did a visual check of the springs/shocks/ air lines. It looked fine except the rear shocks which were leaking, so I replaced them with new OEM mercedes shocks.
The ride is still extremely hard. I did however get this message a few days ago, but it hasn't appeared since then (I've never seen this error before in the ~6 months I've had this problem):
At this point I'm leaning towards a ESP/airmatic/ADS module problem. Various searches revealed different solutions ranging from replacing the valve block/front shocks/computer but I don't want to start replacing random parts hoping to fix it yet. Is there a way in STAR developer to reset the airmatic or ads module? I played around in STAR a bit and managed to soften the damping through the actuations in the STAR developer menus but it doesn't hold the settings when you start the car. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Reviving old thread. Have 06 cls 55 AMG with exact same issue. Stiff ride. Code being thrown by accelerator sensor. Replaced sensor still throwing code. Honestly the stiff ride I like. It actually feels like a sports car now hahaha. WTH this car has been a nightmare. I'm so displeased with everything that has happened to on this car since I bought in Jan 2019. Spent $7000+ and it still has issues. Today found out crank pulley is bad and it's wobbling like a *****. But anyway in fixes on this would be greatly appreciated if
07-09-2019, 01:11 PM
#36
Reviving old thread. Have 06 cls 55 AMG with exact same issue. Stiff ride. Code being thrown by accelerator sensor. Replaced sensor still throwing code. Honestly the stiff ride I like. It actually feels like a sports car now hahaha. WTH this car has been a nightmare. I'm so displeased with everything that has happened to on this car since I bought in Jan 2019. Spent $7000+ and it still has issues. Today found out crank pulley is bad and it's wobbling like a *****. But anyway in fixes on this would be greatly appreciated if
For instance if your steering wheel angle sensor fails, you’re driving like a John Deer tractor on a corn field.
Fix the ESP issue and you’re back in the road.
07-09-2019, 06:18 PM
#37
Junior Member
If any of the ESP functions go out your AIRmatic goes into limp mode (without faults stored/without messages in your cluster). That being said limp mode in conjunction with AIRmatic means all valves are closed and the stiffest setting is set. This is a safety feature and intended.
For instance if your steering wheel angle sensor fails, you’re driving like a John Deer tractor on a corn field.
Fix the ESP issue and you’re back in the road.
For instance if your steering wheel angle sensor fails, you’re driving like a John Deer tractor on a corn field.
Fix the ESP issue and you’re back in the road.
The accelerator sensor code is going off with too much resistance. We replaced sensor. Even switched sides and it keeps popping up vehicle rising arrow up with a car on dash. I haven't felt this car this stiff before. Sport 2 never felt this stiff. I actually like it. If it isn't hurting anything I'll leave it. Do you think it's hurting anything? Ride height is fine , all 4 corners level,. Goes up and down. Just stiff. I like the way it drives and drives like a good suspension should. Just my opinion
07-09-2019, 06:42 PM
#38
The accelerator sensor code is going off with too much resistance. We replaced sensor. Even switched sides and it keeps popping up vehicle rising arrow up with a car on dash. I haven't felt this car this stiff before. Sport 2 never felt this stiff. I actually like it. If it isn't hurting anything I'll leave it. Do you think it's hurting anything? Ride height is fine , all 4 corners level,. Goes up and down. Just stiff. I like the way it drives and drives like a good suspension should. Just my opinion
07-09-2019, 09:56 PM
#39
Junior Member
If there is zero faults for esp then how do I know where to look? What should I replace and what and where will I find what to fix. Saying it's ESP is fine and all but what do I work on? It isn't all that stiff. Its driveability is good.
07-09-2019, 10:07 PM
#40
Maybe it’s just me but you have a stored fault in your ESP showing in your last screenshot.
07-09-2019, 11:00 PM
#41
Junior Member
Those aren't my screen shots brother. That the other guys. I have one code and it's the accelerator sensor but I replaced it twice now and it still throws the code. It gets stiff. And that's it. It doesn't bother me that much accept that the center thing comes up with a vehicle rising in white (not red) and it says visit workshop. That's it. No other symptoms. My Mercedes mechanic is stumped and STAT machine doesn't show any other faults in airmatic. Pump checks out, struts check out, rising up and down checks out etc ....
07-09-2019, 11:18 PM
#42
Those aren't my screen shots brother. That the other guys. I have one code and it's the accelerator sensor but I replaced it twice now and it still throws the code. It gets stiff. And that's it. It doesn't bother me that much accept that the center thing comes up with a vehicle rising in white (not red) and it says visit workshop. That's it. No other symptoms. My Mercedes mechanic is stumped and STAT machine doesn't show any other faults in airmatic. Pump checks out, struts check out, rising up and down checks out etc ....
07-09-2019, 11:57 PM
#43
Junior Member
07-10-2019, 12:40 AM
#45
Junior Member
07-10-2019, 08:10 AM
#46
Well, some of the stuff just had to be fixed and some other stuff was preventive while spare parts are still available. Not too concerned. If you can work n your own car it’s really not that bad.
07-10-2019, 05:49 PM
#47
Negative in Austin TX. Are you a master mechanic? I'm losing hope on this car. It has 700+ HP and is my dream car but now tomorrow I'm replacing another part crank pulley which is shot and almost coming apart. $7000+ in 6 months and not to mention my sanity. If anyone reads this thread and wants to understand how e55 or cls55 are for maintenance. Take it from me. Sucking sound from your wallet. Don't buy and stay away unless you have 20k cash reserve to play with.
07-10-2019, 06:41 PM
#48
Being in Austin, who are you taking your car to? Have you had Adam and Dave over at Eurocharged ATX have a look at it to see what is wrong? They have done all the work on my CLS fixing all sorts of little things and I've been very pleased with the work. Somewhat related but is that your black CLS55 for sale in the local craigslist add? If so it sure does look clean.
07-15-2019, 02:52 PM
#49
Junior Member
Hi Guys, firstly Thanks for all the info i've gotten so far. My GL350CDI is doing the same. However it sometimes goes back to normal (atleast twice a day). I have no other faults except for that, and low voltage . It got me thinking that it might be that my battery no longer holds enough charge and it could be a safety mechanism. the faults I get is Y54y1.
Will check the right rear damper selonoid unit . and give feedback. But for some reason I really feel changing the Battery would fi
x the issue .
Will check the right rear damper selonoid unit . and give feedback. But for some reason I really feel changing the Battery would fi
x the issue .
07-15-2019, 07:10 PM
#50
Junior Member
Being in Austin, who are you taking your car to? Have you had Adam and Dave over at Eurocharged ATX have a look at it to see what is wrong? They have done all the work on my CLS fixing all sorts of little things and I've been very pleased with the work. Somewhat related but is that your black CLS55 for sale in the local craigslist add? If so it sure does look clean.
Figured it out. It was bad accelerator sensor. The sensor MUST come from Mercedes Benz dealer. My mechanic was getting sensors that were OEM but remanufactured I think. It's fixed. Yes it is my car for sale. It's clean as hell man. I just want get a v6 Infiniti or some crap. I drive a ton. I don't talk to eurocharged. Lol. They know their stuff damn right. But don't do fixed pulley tunes. Mine is fixed. And they charge more than the dealership on labor
