W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Zero boost (sometimes), no error codes, HELP please!

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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 12:34 AM
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Zero boost (sometimes), no error codes, HELP please!

Hey guys,

I've done a few bolts on to my car, car was tuned and the power is great, but, ever since I got the car back from the mechanic I've been having a few very annoying issues, but the biggest one is what I call the "ZERO boost" issue, and it works like this;

- I turn the car on, let it warm up
- Drive slowly coming out of my neighborhood
- Hit the highway, mash the gas pedal, and NOTHING HAPPENS!, car makes a lot of noise, but, I'm NOT making any boost (I confirmed this using my DASHDAQ)

Pull to the curb, turn off the car, wait 15-30 seconds, turn it on again, hit the gas, and the car goes strong making 9-10psi (which is my max boost)... this happens over and over again, it's become part of my day.

I could making 10psi of boost coming off the highway and then once I get to a slow part of town, the boost may go MIA again.

I thought it was heat soaking, but, I monitor those parameters with my dashdaq at all times, and the IATS are normal, as well as AFR's, and no check engine lights or error codes other than a one time P0410 "MALFUNCTION OF SECONDARY AIR INJECTION".

If anybody has experienced and resolved an issue similar to mine, I really need your input, please!
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 12:42 AM
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What are your mods? Fixed or clutched pulley?
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Denroll
What are your mods? Fixed or clutched pulley?
Hey D, these are my mods

Clutched pulley
MBH LT Headers
Looped fuel rail with 550cc injectors
colder spark plugs
Bigger HE with stand alone cooling reservoir
Carbonio air box
82mm TB
Brooke's 168mm crank pulley on top of an OEM hub
Brooke's smaller SC pulley
Brooke's idler pulleys

That's about it
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 12:55 AM
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When you get this, do your short term fuel trims go really high? What about AFRs? Does it accelerate like it becomes N/A?
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 12:56 AM
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Im not 100% sure but id start by Checking your super charger clutch wiring harness (the plug that goes into the magnetic clutch) to make sure its not shorting itself out. Make sure it is pushed in firmly where the plug is and also where the pins connect in closer to the actual magnetic drum.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Denroll
When you get this, do your short term fuel trims go really high? What about AFRs? Does it accelerate like it becomes N/A?
I don't know how to read fuel trims, what is a really high FT value?

AFR's are good across the board, 11.5 min at high rpm's.

However, not sure if this is relevant, I am doing about 7MPG, confirmed by my dealer, and that's without pushing the car, fuel consumption is off the charts.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by RAWE55
Im not 100% sure but id start by Checking your super charger clutch wiring harness (the plug that goes into the magnetic clutch) to make sure its not shorting itself out. Make sure it is pushed in firmly where the plug is and also where the pins connect in closer to the actual magnetic drum.
Thanks bud, I will ask my dealer to check the clutch's wiring and confirm it's in tip top cobdition.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Kelvin07
I don't know how to read fuel trims, what is a really high FT value?

AFR's are good across the board, 11.5 min at high rpm's.

However, not sure if this is relevant, I am doing about 7MPG, confirmed by my dealer, and that's without pushing the car, fuel consumption is off the charts.
Whoa, 7 mpg is not right, even by our cars' standards.

You can display fuel trims on the DashDAQ. There are short term and long term percentages for each bank. The STFTs will bounce around a lot, but not usually more than +/- 10-15% or more. If there's a hiccup, they will spike to over 20%.

LTFTs should be within 10%.

Oh, the connector for the supercharger clutch is just to the left of the magnet. Easy to check.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 02:40 AM
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Two second check, dont let dealer charge you for it. Look at the black magnetic drum behind your supercharger pulley (being clutched they will spin independently of one another) and follow it around to the left, you will see a plug behind ur intercooler lines that goes jnto a metal rectangle. Make sure the plug is in all the way and make sure the mtal rectangle is also pushed into the pins which connects to the two wires going into the back of the magnetic clutch.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Denroll
Whoa, 7 mpg is not right, even by our cars' standards. You can display fuel trims on the DashDAQ. There are short term and long term percentages for each bank. The STFTs will bounce around a lot, but not usually more than +/- 10-15% or more. If there's a hiccup, they will spike to over 20%. LTFTs should be within 10%. Oh, the connector for the supercharger clutch is just to the left of the magnet. Easy to check.
I know!, I am very concerned about the high fuel consumption, and even though I said 7mpg but it could be as low as 5mpg. Any suggestion of what could be causing the extreme mpg?

I will check the fuel trims and datalog them, but the symptoms of the hiccup are more extreme, like surges of power and the car lunges and fuel starvation occurs, does that make sense?

Mine is just like "no power at all from the get go, unless I push it from the begining".
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 02:45 AM
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It feels more like heat soak the the hiccup, like the SC simply shuts down, but AFRs and IATs are normal.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 02:50 AM
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+1
Check ur STFT. A negative (-) value means the car is subtracting fuel to reach stoich value ie car running rich and a positive (+) means its adding fuel as cars running too lean. Ur 02 sensors pick this up. These are however instananeous changes that the car makes and are good to monitor but dont freak out if it sais -20 or +20 for a second or so. If it goes into hiccup mode as we call it ur STFTs will stay at those values for a period of time longer then a few seconds before recovering. And will remain that way until a restart. Hense why when u restart the car it clears up your problem. Your LTFT should also remain between + or - 5/6% or you probably have an issue if its not in the tune. Ie leaking/faulty injector/s
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by RAWE55
+1
Check ur STFT. A negative (-) value means the car is subtracting fuel to reach stoich value ie car running rich and a positive (+) means its adding fuel as cars running too lean. Ur 02 sensors pick this up. These are however instananeous changes that the car makes and are good to monitor but dont freak out if it sais -20 or +20 for a second or so. If it goes into hiccup mode as we call it ur STFTs will stay at those values for a period of time longer then a few seconds before recovering. And will remain that way until a restart. Hense why when u restart the car it clears up your problem. Your LTFT should also remain between + or - 5/6% or you probably have an issue if its not in the tune. Ie leaking/faulty injector/s
Could these be causing my sky high mpg?

How do I fix it?
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Kelvin07
Could these be causing my sky high mpg?

How do I fix it?
Im only speculating at the moment so you need to log your S/LTFT and make sure they stay within the acceptable values. If they dont id turn to looking into an over fueling issue which may be caused by a leaking injector/s as 7mpg doesnt sound right even by our cars standards.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by RAWE55
Im only speculating at the moment so you need to log your S/LTFT and make sure they stay within the acceptable values. If they dont id turn to looking into an over fueling issue which may be caused by a leaking injector/s as 7mpg doesnt sound right even by our cars standards.
Thanks for that!
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 11:00 AM
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This might not even remotely connected but just run your hand behind the S/C and see if a pipe is hanging loose. I forgot what it's called.

It's like a hose and has no lock to keep it connected. If that hose is loose then you will lose boost and you will feel what you are feeling now.

That's what happened with me.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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^That's the metal tube on the driver's side. It has a mount that screws in to the back of the valve cover.

Is the car with you or at the shop now?
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by viren.89
This might not even remotely connected but just run your hand behind the S/C and see if a pipe is hanging loose. I forgot what it's called.

It's like a hose and has no lock to keep it connected. If that hose is loose then you will lose boost and you will feel what you are feeling now.

That's what happened with me.
Please, can you explain further. I posted a need help post, but there were no replies. I think I'm loosing boost as well. I'm trapping about 10mph less than what others trap. Thanks.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by T9ja
Please, can you explain further. I posted a need help post, but there were no replies. I think I'm loosing boost as well. I'm trapping about 10mph less than what others trap. Thanks.
The pipe I'm talking about usually gets loose after doing a valve cover job or crank positioning sensor or anything of that sort
which requires you going behind the S/C.

It is not connected in a very secure manner. It will not go loose because of hard driving but could go loose if you accidentally hit it hard.

This is all I know. Sorry.

PM denroll
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 07:53 PM
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If you look towards the back right hand corner of the engine bay there are two lines, one braided line goes into your fuel rail and the other is a metal/rubber vaccum line which switches between a rubber hose and a metal one. You need to pop off your air boxes to track it further. The line bolts onto your valve cover gasket and then goes into a rubber grommet. Attached is a photo of the metal line in the rubber grommet, however the entire grommet is out in the photo. It is sittting ontop of where it needs to be pushed into. Look between your surge tanks and the supercharger in the top right corner. About an inch and a half down and about 2cm right of the throttle body is where it goes into. Ignore the two rubber hoses ontop of the supercharger the grommet is a couple inches below. Get a flash light and have a look down there. Ps no need to unbolt your surge tank to push it back in
Attached Thumbnails Zero boost (sometimes), no error codes, HELP please!-image.jpg  
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 08:11 PM
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Thanks. Will check on that as well.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by T9ja
Please, can you explain further. I posted a need help post, but there were no replies. I think I'm loosing boost as well. I'm trapping about 10mph less than what others trap. Thanks.

What are your symptoms? Could be the intercooler pump. Are you logging?
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by T9ja
Thanks. Will check on that as well.
From reading your other thread and trying not to contaminate this one, sounds like your supercharger is heat soaked as ur car runs fine in morning, and you have a good 60ft, you need to monitor your IATs if it isnt an air bubble, id suggest its the sh!!!ty pump from ftp. I asked for a bosch 010, he sent me a bosch 002 and it lasted a week before my iats sky rocketed again. I switched to a johnson cm30 from eueocharged and its lasted about a year so far. No issues. You need to check what pump you installed. The bosch 002s dont last long.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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Thanks. How can you tell the difference? Any other person have such an experience with FTP? I took the car back to the Mechanic to check if the pump was working this week, and confirmed it working. But will definately check for the bubbles. Thanks.
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Denroll
What are your symptoms? Could be the intercooler pump. Are you logging?
Seems to be gasping for air when changing from gears under a hard acceleration. Just feels like the s/c stop working, and the motor takes over.
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