Zero boost (sometimes), no error codes, HELP please!



I've done a few bolts on to my car, car was tuned and the power is great, but, ever since I got the car back from the mechanic I've been having a few very annoying issues, but the biggest one is what I call the "ZERO boost" issue, and it works like this;
- I turn the car on, let it warm up
- Drive slowly coming out of my neighborhood
- Hit the highway, mash the gas pedal, and NOTHING HAPPENS!, car makes a lot of noise, but, I'm NOT making any boost (I confirmed this using my DASHDAQ)
Pull to the curb, turn off the car, wait 15-30 seconds, turn it on again, hit the gas, and the car goes strong making 9-10psi (which is my max boost)... this happens over and over again, it's become part of my day.
I could making 10psi of boost coming off the highway and then once I get to a slow part of town, the boost may go MIA again.
I thought it was heat soaking, but, I monitor those parameters with my dashdaq at all times, and the IATS are normal, as well as AFR's, and no check engine lights or error codes other than a one time P0410 "MALFUNCTION OF SECONDARY AIR INJECTION".
If anybody has experienced and resolved an issue similar to mine, I really need your input, please!



Clutched pulley
MBH LT Headers
Looped fuel rail with 550cc injectors
colder spark plugs
Bigger HE with stand alone cooling reservoir
Carbonio air box
82mm TB
Brooke's 168mm crank pulley on top of an OEM hub
Brooke's smaller SC pulley
Brooke's idler pulleys
That's about it



AFR's are good across the board, 11.5 min at high rpm's.
However, not sure if this is relevant, I am doing about 7MPG, confirmed by my dealer, and that's without pushing the car, fuel consumption is off the charts.



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AFR's are good across the board, 11.5 min at high rpm's.
However, not sure if this is relevant, I am doing about 7MPG, confirmed by my dealer, and that's without pushing the car, fuel consumption is off the charts.
You can display fuel trims on the DashDAQ. There are short term and long term percentages for each bank. The STFTs will bounce around a lot, but not usually more than +/- 10-15% or more. If there's a hiccup, they will spike to over 20%.
LTFTs should be within 10%.
Oh, the connector for the supercharger clutch is just to the left of the magnet. Easy to check.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG



I will check the fuel trims and datalog them, but the symptoms of the hiccup are more extreme, like surges of power and the car lunges and fuel starvation occurs, does that make sense?
Mine is just like "no power at all from the get go, unless I push it from the begining".
Check ur STFT. A negative (-) value means the car is subtracting fuel to reach stoich value ie car running rich and a positive (+) means its adding fuel as cars running too lean. Ur 02 sensors pick this up. These are however instananeous changes that the car makes and are good to monitor but dont freak out if it sais -20 or +20 for a second or so. If it goes into hiccup mode as we call it ur STFTs will stay at those values for a period of time longer then a few seconds before recovering. And will remain that way until a restart. Hense why when u restart the car it clears up your problem. Your LTFT should also remain between + or - 5/6% or you probably have an issue if its not in the tune. Ie leaking/faulty injector/s



Check ur STFT. A negative (-) value means the car is subtracting fuel to reach stoich value ie car running rich and a positive (+) means its adding fuel as cars running too lean. Ur 02 sensors pick this up. These are however instananeous changes that the car makes and are good to monitor but dont freak out if it sais -20 or +20 for a second or so. If it goes into hiccup mode as we call it ur STFTs will stay at those values for a period of time longer then a few seconds before recovering. And will remain that way until a restart. Hense why when u restart the car it clears up your problem. Your LTFT should also remain between + or - 5/6% or you probably have an issue if its not in the tune. Ie leaking/faulty injector/s
How do I fix it?



It's like a hose and has no lock to keep it connected. If that hose is loose then you will lose boost and you will feel what you are feeling now.
That's what happened with me.
It's like a hose and has no lock to keep it connected. If that hose is loose then you will lose boost and you will feel what you are feeling now.
That's what happened with me.
which requires you going behind the S/C.
It is not connected in a very secure manner. It will not go loose because of hard driving but could go loose if you accidentally hit it hard.
This is all I know. Sorry.
PM denroll


