Another E63 bites the dust...
Another E63 bites the dust...
As I was about 2 minutes away from home smoke started coming out of the exhaust pipe and the car began to shake and stutter. Coolant and oil temp was normal. I was able to limp it back to my house. Shut off the car checked the oil everything was normal. Tried starting the car and it just clicks but does not turn over. I was able to pull the codes with a generic OBDII scanner and the codes read P0308, P2273 & P2240. Is this typical from those who are having the head bolt issue or is this something different? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by M and AMG; Jul 11, 2014 at 09:06 AM.
Check the coolant level in the reservoir, remove pressure cap slowly with a big rag covering your hand, under pressure, I hope.
If the coolant is low,
remove all sparkplugs and then using short key flicks on the starter, crank the engine over to see if any coolant rushes out, if you see coolant then yes you are into a head removal operation. The clicking could be from the cyl being full of coolant after you shut the engine off with the 16LB coolant pressure fills the offending cyl and in effect hydro locks the engine, Coolant does not compress.
If the coolant is low,
remove all sparkplugs and then using short key flicks on the starter, crank the engine over to see if any coolant rushes out, if you see coolant then yes you are into a head removal operation. The clicking could be from the cyl being full of coolant after you shut the engine off with the 16LB coolant pressure fills the offending cyl and in effect hydro locks the engine, Coolant does not compress.
Last edited by Critter; Jul 9, 2014 at 08:56 PM.
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This place is a joke.
Black smoke or white? White= coolant or oil, black= Fuel, aka stuck injector, usually leading to engine seizure. As stated above, pull the plugs and try to turn the motor over by hand. If it won't turn, it's toast.
Unless your a DIY person for something like that, I would recommend towing it to the dealer for diagnostic and telling them that you don't want to try and start it again because you're concerned about a potential hydro lock.
It was white smoke. Checked the coolant like some of you mentioned and it wasn't low but not completely full. I'm going to get the car towed to an Indy mercedes benz repair shop. Hopefully the motor isn't shot. I spoke with the owner last night of the shop and he said it could be a coil pack but he is worried about the smoke. I can believe with only 80k miles and no previous issues this could happen out of no where.
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No werid sounds. As I was going up a little hill I gave it a little gas the car started to shake and misfire then the check engine light started to flash. I looked in my rear view and saw smoke. I was less than a mile from my house and was able to limp it back.
Is your car stock? Aftermarket warranty? I would take it to the dealer or your favorite indy shop and have test run. Unless you have a leakdown kit to use and find out if you have a head gasket leak or cylinder damage.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
Just a Eurocharged tune. The indy shop is a family friends and he always treats us fair. I'm just afraid its something catastrophic.
Was the coolant reservoir under pressure when you checked the level?
Could you see the white wall inside of the reservoir, that is the normal level, it will never be full to the top.
Could you see the white wall inside of the reservoir, that is the normal level, it will never be full to the top.
The car was sitting for a few hours when I checked. Not any pressure at all. I could see the white wall on the top of the reservoir.
You state earlier that the car would not turn over and would only click, is that factual. Do not continue to try this until you go to the steps below, Hydro lock has possibly occurred.
Our cars can sit for days and there is still a small pop noise when the reservoir cap is removed.
No pressure is not a good sign especially with the engine not cranking over.
If you have the expertise to remove the air boxes, unbolt the coil packs and remove "ALL" of the sparkplugs then by short flicks of the key you will be able to detect coolant flying out of the plug hole or holes and at least find out which side is the offending gasket or head bolt.
This is all BS as in if you see coolant shooting out the engine will indeed have to be repaired and chances are you do not have the appropriate tools to do the job.
Make friends with a MB tech,
Sorry buddy no good news with this.
Our cars can sit for days and there is still a small pop noise when the reservoir cap is removed.
No pressure is not a good sign especially with the engine not cranking over.
If you have the expertise to remove the air boxes, unbolt the coil packs and remove "ALL" of the sparkplugs then by short flicks of the key you will be able to detect coolant flying out of the plug hole or holes and at least find out which side is the offending gasket or head bolt.
This is all BS as in if you see coolant shooting out the engine will indeed have to be repaired and chances are you do not have the appropriate tools to do the job.
Make friends with a MB tech,
Sorry buddy no good news with this.
Last edited by Critter; Jul 10, 2014 at 11:30 AM.
Shardul is talking about my car.
At about 40k miles, one of the valves broke and embedded itself in the top of the piston.
This happened under medium acceleration. I lost power and could hear a very loud metal/ticking that changed speeds with engine revs.
I drove for about 10 seconds and then pulled it into a lot for towing.
I don't recall seeing much if any smoke.
Not sure if that helps but just sharing my experience. Mine required a new block and a lot more. Thank god I had warranty or the repair would have been more than the car.
At about 40k miles, one of the valves broke and embedded itself in the top of the piston.
This happened under medium acceleration. I lost power and could hear a very loud metal/ticking that changed speeds with engine revs.
I drove for about 10 seconds and then pulled it into a lot for towing.
I don't recall seeing much if any smoke.
Not sure if that helps but just sharing my experience. Mine required a new block and a lot more. Thank god I had warranty or the repair would have been more than the car.
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Shardul is talking about my car.
At about 40k miles, one of the valves broke and embedded itself in the top of the piston.
This happened under medium acceleration. I lost power and could hear a very loud metal/ticking that changed speeds with engine revs.
I drove for about 10 seconds and then pulled it into a lot for towing.
I don't recall seeing much if any smoke.
Not sure if that helps but just sharing my experience. Mine required a new block and a lot more. Thank god I had warranty or the repair would have been more than the car.
At about 40k miles, one of the valves broke and embedded itself in the top of the piston.
This happened under medium acceleration. I lost power and could hear a very loud metal/ticking that changed speeds with engine revs.
I drove for about 10 seconds and then pulled it into a lot for towing.
I don't recall seeing much if any smoke.
Not sure if that helps but just sharing my experience. Mine required a new block and a lot more. Thank god I had warranty or the repair would have been more than the car.
I just spoke with the owner of the Indy shop. He had one of this techs look at the car and he said that the motor is locked and won't turn over. He is waiting for his shop foreman to come in on monday to see what is wrong with the car and if it is worth it to fix or get a new motor. I'll Keep you guys updated.
My friend, of course the motor will not turn over, did you not explain that to the fool , sorry tech when you took it in. If anything just what has been said remove the plugs to release coolant, then depending on which bank, start the process. As everyone also stated Mercedes needs tools to hold the cams in place for removal. Chances are if they continue to try and crank it the way it is further damage will or could have already occurred. Looking at the engine will not fix it. If this is the place capable of doing the complete job then allow the disassembly if not another competent shop is required. By your above statement waiting for the shop foreman does not make me warm and fuzzy in their ability. Good Luck
My friend, of course the motor will not turn over, did you not explain that to the fool , sorry tech when you took it in. If anything just what has been said remove the plugs to release coolant, then depending on which bank, start the process. As everyone also stated Mercedes needs tools to hold the cams in place for removal. Chances are if they continue to try and crank it the way it is further damage will or could have already occurred. Looking at the engine will not fix it. If this is the place capable of doing the complete job then allow the disassembly if not another competent shop is required. By your above statement waiting for the shop foreman does not make me warm and fuzzy in their ability. Good Luck



summer temps 
Godspeed.