Experimental Chain Tensioner
#1
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Experimental Chain Tensioner
I had planned on just installing a new chain tensioner and spring, but as it turns out I should have ordered the pulley tool much more than a week in advance. Plus it's been in the back of my mind that the problem is 100% guaranteed to come back. It was frustrating to have the culprit in sight and not be able to fix it. Also I was running out of time, and needed to get the car back together, so I added a helper spring to slightly increase the tension on the chain. It has much better leverage being near the end instead of at the pivot point. So far it's working beautifully, but I will have to take the whole thing apart again someday to evaluate the results, like excessive chain guide wear. I bolted a ridiculously strong rare earth magnet in the oil pan in case something goes wrong.
Last edited by StarvingArtist; 11-05-2019 at 05:46 AM.
#3
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
No new chains? I see in pic 4 the chain has contacted the housing, that is not all chain tensioner/guidesat fault, it is a degree of streched chains too.
You are running stock cams right?
You are running stock cams right?
#6
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No new anything. I couldn't get in without the pulley tool. I had to work from the bottom. Didn't touch the timing chain, it's all stock...for now.
I might hit you up for the new chain to go with the other parts on the workbench, but I hope to leave it alone for awhile.
I might hit you up for the new chain to go with the other parts on the workbench, but I hope to leave it alone for awhile.
Last edited by StarvingArtist; 07-20-2014 at 07:14 PM.
#7
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The chain he's adding the additional tensioner to is the oil pump drive chain, not the camshaft timing chain.
Also, FWIW, the 79k mile chain/spring/guide on my original E55 engine slapped like a diesel, and showed 0 stretch at ambient temp. Perhaps at 200'+F there might be more stretch, but I doubt it. The new MB chain I replaced it with was identical length. The same went for the timing chain. Less than 1mm stretch at 79k miles.
SA- I like your idea a lot!
Also, FWIW, the 79k mile chain/spring/guide on my original E55 engine slapped like a diesel, and showed 0 stretch at ambient temp. Perhaps at 200'+F there might be more stretch, but I doubt it. The new MB chain I replaced it with was identical length. The same went for the timing chain. Less than 1mm stretch at 79k miles.
SA- I like your idea a lot!
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Crissus (04-14-2018)
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#10
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I'm not recommending this. The concept is good but the execution may not be. It might actually be less work to just change the spring the normal way. I had the suspension out anyway, and it was like laparoscopic surgery building the part and fitting it. I had to keep gluing it to a screwdriver to hold it up in there. I also had to pull the front of the motor apart and drill and countersink bolts through the timing cover, hoping I hit the right spot. Also there is the possibility of excessive wear on the guide because it might need to swing out at high RPM. Maybe someone can take the idea and run with it. I just thought I'd share so you guys can get used to me being a little nuts.
#11
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2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
Well the only other option would be to grind down the inside of the timing cover I suppose. This seems to be a VERY common issue with the chain biting into the cover. Personally it annoys the living snot out of me. I'm just always looking for options.
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Crissus (04-14-2018)
#13
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No, but it's the spring that's the problem and you cant get to that either. If I had gotten it apart I might have come up with something better, and I would definitely carve some off that tab it hits.
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Crissus (04-14-2018)
#14
Thats actually a great idea! Im taking the engine out when its winter time and the main reason is to replace the goddamn spring, and at the same time change the timing chain also just for the sake of having hobbies . Definetly doing to carve the timing cover a little where it rubs too!
#16
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Hmmm, I see what you mean. Where it's hitting stops it from swinging too far. That side should be stretched tight under load except at idle though. I'm not convinced it even needs a spring. It's just a convenient way to keep the proper tension. Like they do with the belts now. Supposed to be less maintenance, but in this case it sucks. I've seen lots of chains with rigid tensioners, and it crossed my mind to put in an adjuster bolt, but I wasn't feeling that bold because like you said, if it breaks..... or if it even wears a groove in the tensioner I would be back in there right away. So I split the difference and gave it less swing. This buys me some QUIET time. When I have time to pull the engine for mods, I'll see if there is any uneven or excessive wear on the guide. If not I may put on an external adjuster, or maybe we'll have a better plan by then.
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Crissus (04-14-2018)
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#18
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I've got one,(in my head) but it requires boring an inch or bigger hole in the oil pan. Big enough to clean out the chips and put a mechanism up in. Another solution might be a spring loaded bolt type device through the timing cover, but that leaves drill chips in the pan. An aluminum sucking magnet would simplify things. Invent that first.
#19
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E55 AMG WAGON 2004
Really like you're thinking on this and pretty ingenious to do something with the motor in the car. I had my motor out earlier this year to deal with this, it's so frustrating as the new tensioner, spring and chain only came to about £50, but major works to get to it!! My car sounds much better now, but for how long before it comes back!? Surely MB should come up with a better spring as that part only cost a few quid!
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Crissus (04-14-2018)
#23
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I've got about 10,000 miles on this. All good so far. I've decided to leave it in when I get around to the new spring and tensioner.
#25
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Probably.
If you drain the rear oil sump first, then drain the front one into a black pan, you will see aluminum shavings from the timing cover. It's disconcerting, but doesn't seem to pose any threat.
Mine is still mostly quiet. I hear an occasional light slap so I guess I didn't over tension it. I've got about 42,000 miles on it now.
After seeing the results of an oil stress test I switched to 5-40 Royal purple. I think the motor is a little quieter on that stuff too.
If you drain the rear oil sump first, then drain the front one into a black pan, you will see aluminum shavings from the timing cover. It's disconcerting, but doesn't seem to pose any threat.
Mine is still mostly quiet. I hear an occasional light slap so I guess I didn't over tension it. I've got about 42,000 miles on it now.
After seeing the results of an oil stress test I switched to 5-40 Royal purple. I think the motor is a little quieter on that stuff too.
Last edited by StarvingArtist; 04-12-2018 at 11:42 AM.