edan82

Update,

TCU is fine, solenoids fine.

Seems like it lead us to a gearbox rebuild so now I have few questions:
1.I got a quote of 4200$ for the gearbox rebuild which includes the valve body, 5 clutch plates and the converter inc labor.
Does it sound reasonable?
2. Any suggestion of where I can purchase the full rebuild kit in best price?
3.what about upgraded parts/kits, is there any?

Thank you guys!

Hulk

Wow that sucks bro, you can check eBay for transmissions but the shipping may be an issue for you.

cm60k

You can send your gearbox to Renntech or MKB or vath for upgrading & TCU tuning, instead to get a rebuilt one for $3000>>$4000..!,,

http://www.renntechmercedes.com/www/node/210

http://www.mkb-power.de/en/products....&prod_gruppe=3

http://www.vaeth.com/en/engine-refin...1-e-class.html

ZAYED,,

edan82

Thanks guys,

I also thought about 2nd hand gearbox but have it in HK will cost around 2700-3000$, better to add 1200$ And fix mine to a 90% new condition (replacing everything except for the gears there self).

I also thought about Renntech but than again, shipping will make it too expensive, otherwise I would probably go for that.
And as I understand I cannot buy the rebuild kit from them, must send them the gearbox .

cm60k

Contact to "Bob Brady" in Renntech, his great & helpFUL guy to deal with, he absolutely can arrange the shipping quote..

ZAYED,,

edan82

Wow,

Thanks for the tip dude, will definitely do so.

Edit,

Was looking for his email on Renntech website but did find it.
Any chance you know his email?

Thanks!

cm60k

Sure,

bobb@renntechmercedes.com

ZAYED,,

Hulk

Try paramount performance also

edan82

Thank you all for your kind help.

I already contact with Renntech and paramount performance but after waiting for their reply for few days i decided not to waste my time and to go on the stock settings.

My mechanic already ordered the full gearbox rebuild kit from mercedes.

Hopefully that will put an end for my gearbox issues.

Hulk

Please keep us posted bro, sorry RT or paramount didn't come through

edan82

Yeah, too bad they didn't reply but as the car is used daily by my wife I have to fix it ASAP.

Anyway, I guess the OEM kit will do the job especially as the car is very light tuned (larger H/E and EC ECU).

Will keep you guys posted on the out come.

And again- many thanks for your help!

Hulk

Ya u didn't need to beef it up if it's just a tune, you will be fine for a long time

edan82

Ok so now its getting frustrating, I had my gearbox rebuild and got the car back about 2 weeks ago and started a run-in for the gearbox.

All worked fine for about 435km till this morning when the gear started slipping again.

Thats the list of parts changed already:
Conductor plate
Valve body
Clutch plates
Torque converter
Full seals set
Filter+oil

Other than the TCU itself, any other parts may cause this gear slipping?
It show same fault codes as before.

Thank you!

edan82

Any ideas guys?

Hulk

Only thing that would come to mind if all connectors are good is ,the wheel speed sensors

G_Money

Pretty sure Weistec does a 1000hp transmission build for ~$3500 as well?

ETA: saw you already got a rebuild before i posted this... Sorry man, I hope you can figure it out! I hate to hear that you've already dropped nearly 5k chasing this gremlin!

bcurtis

I am having a similar issue with my 2005 E55 AMG. I was hearing a whining noise (like the super charger was louder than normal) and the car stopped and wouldn't shift. After tuning it off and on it would move slowly but would eventually do the same thing. My car makes that whining noise as the motor approaches 2000 rpms. Took it to autozone and go a code P0730 which reads low tranny fluid, speed/circuit sensor, or tranny failure.
What would you all suggest? I've been watching this video the last few minutes

shardul

iTrader: (1)

add fluild to see if it solves problem, if not replace conductor plate, if not contact me for used transmission

bcurtis

Shardul,
I am taking it in Monday to this place and have him take a look at it (I just don't have the confidence to do it myself). He did tell me something that sounded a little off. He said that only Mercedes can change the conductor plate and that they won't sell it to anyone. I've seen this part for sale on ebay. This part should be compatible with all other e55s right?

bcurtis

Shardul,
So I finally take it to the shop and here are the codes they got (P2561, P220A, or P2562). They said when they cleared the check engine light the car shifted fine and that the fluid looked ok. Weird! Not sure why it went to limp mode before. I'm still cautious and will be selling the car this summer. Do you recognize any of the three codes above?

Crissus

P220A means that the RPM between Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 are not plausible.
P2562 THE GEAR IS IMPLAUSIBLE OR THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING 4.GEAR
P2561 THE GEAR IS IMPLAUSIBLE OR THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING 2.GEAR

Searching the german Forums, where this seems to be a standard issue with 722.6xx boxes, they say its in 99% of the cases the leaking connector and transmission fluid leaking into the TCU and remaining there. If its not that, its the conductor plate.
Thrid possibility is a shot again tranny. Happening when the radiators getting to leak cooling fluid into the transmission oil-circuit. There is a "glycol-test" available to check for it. Or it was old debris recirculating again and killing the new box again. Thats why a thoroughly flush of the system is necessary when replacing a shot box which had already created metal debris. Other people change their radiators and oil lines pro-actively in such cases.
Also common mistake at overhauls, is to forget to replace all radial seal rings.
Remove the oilpan and check for metal debris. If yes - shot again.

I remember a case with a Mercedes where it would "eat" two new gearboxes in 1000km/625miles after each other.
Later it turned out that the whole area for the ATF Oil in the front radiator was completely clogged. So basically the gearbox did overheat every time, combined with V8 Power and spirited driving on the Autobahn, those boxed did not last long without cooling of the ATF....

bcurtis

Crissus,
I just bought the conductor plate and will have a shop replace it. Hopefully this fixes it. I hope I don't need another TCU as this part from what I understand is expensive but I've seen used ones for $300. My last hope is a rebuilt or used tranny. I am about to sell this car as son as its fixed. I'll know when its fixed as the high pitched whine noise should be gone as I accelerate aggressively. Wish me luck and if anyone has any other suggestions let me know.

Crissus

When the Leaky connector leaked oil into your TCU, you have to remove it from the car, open it and drain all the oil+ clean it with a electronics cleaner and let it dry afterwards. But to see IF there is Oil in it you have to remove and open it anyway. I would have done this in the first place already since its cheaper than a new gearbox.

What was the diagnose from the shop that did rebuild your gearbox?
Dont you have a warranty for the repair/overhaul? If you pay 4 digit $ and it works just some days or weeks, i would be back again in the shop and would say: Fix it - i payed for it!

akmatic63

Having same issues with my s65. Being my daily driver, ill go days with no issues then one day out of nowhere it'll shift hard, slip gears, and a check engine light with p0730 will come on then when I turn the car off let it sit usually the light goes away and the car drives like normal.

So far I have only done diagnostics and all the codes that pop up are "stored" codes nothing active. MB SA recommends to replace transmission (no surprise). Fluid levels are where they should be.

Before I take any further steps Im trying to get a hold of all information regarding people w similar issues... Seeing how edan82 rebuilt the trans and still having the issue, does anyone suspect this has anything to do with the transmission cooler and fluid getting stuck in there, so when the transmission is warm and the car has been driven the fluid isn't returning fast enough or getting stuck resulting in the slipping and/or shuddering?

bcurtis

I replaced the conductor plate and everything was fine until yesterday. Now the symptoms are different. When changing to R or D there is a small jerk. The code I am getting now is P0730 (incorrect gear ratio because of poor electrical connection, failed tranny solenoid, failed torque converter, or poor electrical connection). When the mechanic changed the conductor plate he said there were no metal shavings found and that the fluid looked clean. I am unable to shift out of 2nd gear. Any suggestions?