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Those stress cracks are normal and are not an issue so long as they don't reach the outer edge of the rotor. If they do, it becomes a potential really bad failure risk. (i've seen a rotor cracked in half at the track--not pretty).
My prior race car ran 993T rotors which had cast (not cross-drilled) patterns like this and would develop cracks after 1 or 2 track events. I would then run them for another year or two with them regularly seeing over 1000° temps, without issue.
Stopping fast is simple physics: if you want to plant your eyeballs on the windshield during stopping, expect to wear your rotors faster, go through pads faster, and lots of dust--to me it's worth it. (would rather stop fast than go fast).
Enjoy the stopping, keep an eye on the cracks (it appears nothing is even close to the edge).
[QUOTE=biggking;6163401]You don't need to buy $1000 dollar rotors to go 'tracking'. You can just replace them with $130 dealer OEM rotors after a healthy track day. No need to waste tons of money on unnecessary items.[/Q]
I am broke *** *****, I will take my passenger and rear seats out before I buy $1000 rotors to save 3.2lbs (whatever it is) per side.
Still won't tell you guys how to spend your hard earned cash! I will ask WHERE can I sign up for some decent road racing? Not some parking lot cones but serious on track times here in NORCAL.
My E55 did that after a day at Laguna Seca. Took it to another track day at Thunder Hill with small fissures like you pictured. Never worried about it, as they were small and never made it to the egde of the rotor.
I never worried about it - the cracks never really got bigger than what you have pictured. I've had the rotors on the 55k glowing after a night of running canyon roads - so hot that a friend was able to light a cigarette off of one of my rotors!
I am broke *** *****, I will take my passenger and rear seats out before I buy $1000 rotors to save 3.2lbs (whatever it is) per side.
Still won't tell you guys how to spend your hard earned cash! I will ask WHERE can I sign up for some decent road racing? Not some parking lot cones but serious on track times here in NORCAL.
NCRC, Hooked on Driving, Trackmasters, and PCA all put events on up here.
I am broke *** *****, I will take my passenger and rear seats out before I buy $1000 rotors to save 3.2lbs (whatever it is) per side.
Not the same. The rotors are unsprung weight. This affects handling, turn-in, rebound (vertical inertia). Also with rotational inertia: the heavier the unsprung weight, the hard it is to get it rolling and stopped.
Not the same. The rotors are unsprung weight. This affects handling, turn-in, rebound (vertical inertia). Also with rotational inertia: the heavier the unsprung weight, the hard it is to get it rolling and stopped.
Not the same. The rotors are unsprung weight. This affects handling, turn-in, rebound (vertical inertia). Also with rotational inertia: the heavier the unsprung weight, the hard it is to get it rolling and stopped.
In a 4200lb sedan with 516tq and 8 piston brembo front brake kit? I stand by what I say. I do not disagree with the principles of physics but even losing weight inside the car (300-400lbs go weight your seats!) will do a better job keeping the car level around corners than your gold plated brake rotors.
Originally Posted by cnterline
Exactly close to 40 lbs
realistically $3500-4000 for front and rear brake setup (rotors and track pads only) for what a 5% increase in 'performance' that might not even be measurable (how much faster did you go around the track?)
The brakes on our cars is not the weakest point, I'd start with coil overs if I were to track the AMG.
In a 4200lb sedan with 516tq and 8 piston brembo front brake kit? I stand by what I say. I do not disagree with the principles of physics but even losing weight inside the car (300-400lbs go weight your seats!) will do a better job keeping the car level around corners than your gold plated brake rotors.
realistically $3500-4000 for front and rear brake setup (rotors and track pads only) for what a 5% increase in 'performance' that might not even be measurable (how much faster did you go around the track?)
The brakes on our cars is not the weakest point, I'd start with coil overs if I were to track the AMG.
So, Akebono pads and stock rotors??
Wow , I'm done ,all I did was to try to warn some people about a certain vendor ,and state I only bought light weight parts to go faster in the Qtr mile ,and honestly I can do whatever the fk I want with my money .
Wow , I'm done ,all I did was to try to warn some people about a certain vendor ,and state I only bought light weight parts to go faster in the Qtr mile ,and honestly I can do whatever the fk I want with my money .
My bad for hijacking your thread, I meant to post my stuff here:
Those stress cracks are normal and are not an issue so long as they don't reach the outer edge of the rotor. If they do, it becomes a potential really bad failure risk. (i've seen a rotor cracked in half at the track--not pretty).
My prior race car ran 993T rotors which had cast (not cross-drilled) patterns like this and would develop cracks after 1 or 2 track events. I would then run them for another year or two with them regularly seeing over 1000° temps, without issue.
Originally Posted by justinwrock
My E55 did that after a day at Laguna Seca. Took it to another track day at Thunder Hill with small fissures like you pictured. Never worried about it, as they were small and never made it to the egde of the rotor.
I never worried about it - the cracks never really got bigger than what you have pictured. I've had the rotors on the 55k glowing after a night of running canyon roads - so hot that a friend was able to light a cigarette off of one of my rotors!
2011 CTSV auto, 06 E55 white pano, 87 Grand national, 63 split window
Originally Posted by biggking
In a 4200lb sedan with 516tq and 8 piston brembo front brake kit? I stand by what I say. I do not disagree with the principles of physics but even losing weight inside the car (300-400lbs go weight your seats!) will do a better job keeping the car level around corners than your gold plated brake rotors.
realistically $3500-4000 for front and rear brake setup (rotors and track pads only) for what a 5% increase in 'performance' that might not even be measurable (how much faster did you go around the track?)
The brakes on our cars is not the weakest point, I'd start with coil overs if I were to track the AMG.
So, Akebono pads and stock rotors??
The seat removal thingy compared to lightweight rolling mass is apples and oranges and where on earth are you going to save 400 lbs.! 300lbs for that matter!
Price of 5% gain? First off...mister first off...The idea that brakes are $3000-$4000 is too much for one...they can be bought for $2500. Secondly...5% increase for $2500? So, a guy goes 11.0 in the 1/4 mile and can pay $2500 for a 5% increase in that...brings us to a .55 increase so 'he' will now go 10.45 in the 1/4 mile and have better all around performance? Probably not possible on the gain in time but giving a 'for instance' on the statement.
SO, WHO WOULD NOT PAY $2500 TO GO .55 FASTER IN 1/4 MILE...when you are already at 11.0? I would do it tomorrow on my car! The question here isn't whether it WOULD gain 'that' much but who would do this mod if it were 'that' kind of gain? So, the point here is that your statement is wrong and I think that everyone I know would pay that much to gain .55 seconds. When we make our cars faster it gets harder and harder to make them faster once you get to a certain point of advancement so anyone who 'needs' or 'wants' to spend X dollars on X performance is up to them. My opinion is that your statement is ridiculous! No offense BK!
Thats a total of 24 lbs compared to OE one piece and 10 lbs compared to OE two piece rotors. if you were to go with our rear,
that shaves an additional 16 lbs!
Thats a total of 24 lbs compared to OE one piece and 10 lbs compared to OE two piece rotors. if you were to go with our rear,
that shaves an additional 16 lbs!
Will they get the cracks under moderately hard driving?
Moderate hard driving should not be a problem.
Racingbrake completely re-designed our two piece rotors to improve the overall performance, reduce weight, and prevent cracking and warping.
check out our patent designs below click on the links to learn more.
2011 CTSV auto, 06 E55 white pano, 87 Grand national, 63 split window
Originally Posted by RacingBrake
Moderate hard driving should not be a problem.
WRONG ANSWER! 'Should' not be a problem? So, if there is a problem then you just blame it on the customer like the last set for an AMG and refund 65% of the money claiming that 'YOUR' equipment isn't resalable after a mere 200 miles because they are too cracked?!!! That was hilarious! Why would you even think of reselling them and why would that matter to the customer? It should matter to the next customer! Getting used brakes? LMAO... Seems to me like your design isn't quite what you say.
Keep in mind, if you only admitted that maybe it is inferior in some cases and refunded the whole amount...then this wouldn't be written here now! If you refund ANYTHING then you are admitting faulty design but just didn't want to eat the entire cost! Sorry guys, but this had to be said after your last ridiculous post on how INCREDIBLE your patented designs are in preventing cracking! 200 miles? You should go back to the drawing board!
...and this is first hand information...I saw it myself from start to finish. Even listened in on the conversations!
This is an issue but the word is that no one can speak out on sponsors, so it might get deleted, cnterline it sucks that you had to go through this man
09-11-2014, 07:55 AM
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just asking 
