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If anything, the install would be much easier if that giant airbag assembly was not in the way. 80% of my time went to one bolt/nut on each side.
Would it be better to remove the airbag or disconnect it at the lower A arm to make it easier to install? Or would it be the same amount of time doing all that as would be to just deal with it in place?
The next time I go by my alignment shop, I'm going to have them measure the rear toe, then rotate the arms one full turn, then measure again just to see how much toe is gained per revolution. Dialing them in or making changes at the track would be a piece of cake. Jack up the rear a little, get under there on your back or on a creeper, then just undo the lock nuts and make the adjustment. Less than a five minute procedure.
Here is the typical tire wear seen on our cars with negative camber and soft rubber worn out toe arms , that scrub the tire going down the road. Some of my friends were going through 550.00 dollars worth of rear tires , every 4-7K and just the inside tire was wearing to the cords. Lower and older the car, the worse this effect can be. Not to mention , loss of traction from not having full tire contact and stopping surface is also compromised.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
Install took me a while because I took it slow and did things like cleaning up the bolts and stuff. I also did a little fender well and suspension parts detailing to make the pictures really pretty.
I did line up the holes on the new parts with the old ones when I took them off. I did have to adjust them to get the holes to line up on the car, so my settings were way off. It turned left really good, haha. I added some power once and nearly had to change pants.
I think using a jack to lift up the hub could work to get everything closer. After the alignment though, it's golden.
Installed this kit over the weekend. Install is pretty easy with steel suspension (although I did opt to drop the lower arm and pull the spring out)
Only 2 downsides; First, the instructions say to reuse all hardware. That will not work. You do need to replace the toe arm bolt at the hub, as the stock one is too short. Second, I had to remove my 285s and put 275s on.
Just curious, why did you have to go down to a 275 tire? My 305s are fitting. I thought dialing out the camber and toe would get it to rub the fender since it was already really tight, but it didn't.
They push the top out. Guess my Niche wheel offset it simply to aggressive. My tire was directly under the quarter panel lip. I had no suspension travel left after aligning it. 275 just barely misses the body. Tons of room inside now though.
Hi I have a 2006 Mercedes E350 Wagon that was originally airmatic in the rear. However I have since switched the lower control arm to a steel coil spring arm and I added a custom fabricated air ride setup. The car gets seriously low and also rolls when laid out, but I have lots of negative camber and its destroying my tires. Wheel this kit fit on my wagon? Also do you have anything for the front yet? Thanks in advance.
09-26-2014, 03:10 PM
